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33's would be a BETTER choice in that the D30 will have a hope of living with them with stock or 297X shafts. The unibears won't blow up every week either, as you coul run a 4" BS rim without rubbing the LCAs much.

 

 

And it won't look goofy.

 

 

 

Depends what you wheel though.

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Probably would do you fine. They're a bit aggressive if you're DDing it. Perhaps.

 

 

But what the heck, eh?

 

 

Oh, go phone the auto wreckers and tire places and see if you can get something used first. It's often a way better deal, especially if you decide they're too small.

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You should be able to a fit a 35x12.5 without much fuss. The inner pinch seam will have to be beat over. You will need a 15x8 rim with 4" BS at MOST. 3.25 would be better. Be aware the D30 won't like that though.

 

AHH... :roll: ...I agree with the 4" as max amount of B. S.......but 3.25" will push the tar out farther, causing more fitment problems. :eek: :oops: :D 4.5" of BS, IMHO, would be about ideal.

 

Personally I would stick with 33" tars. Yea you could likely fit 35"ERs' with some trimming and a bit of finagling, but 33" ERs' should bolt right up and clear everything with proper back spacing on the rims. Besides, you could get 33x10.5x15 and not have as many worries about the extra stress of the D30 AND not worry so about hitting the lower rear edge of the front wheel well!!!

 

As for brand....you will look LONG and HARD before you find a better tar than the B.F. Goodrich MT for your purpose.

 

CW

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He's got bulge fenders or w/e. His clearance issue should be his LCAs. Thus I said lower BS is better. Unless they only have a stock sized opening, which would make them garbage.

 

 

 

Honestly, you'd not be able to turn with 4.5". I've got 4" and my LCAs are narrower than stock (LAs) and I rub the $#!& out of them with my 35s...

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Not driveshaft, axle. As tire size increase, the added stress on the Dana 30 goes up practically exponentially. Unfortunately there is no easy upgrade for the front axle. Just make sure you've upgraded the axle shafts inside to the later model ones with the Dana-44 size U-joints.

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... dSeals.htm

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I am thinking of the same kit.

I am thinking of these.

http://www.intercotire.com/site28.php

in the 33x10.50 or the 35x10.50. It says a 7-9 inch wide wheel.

I have factory wheels I would like to keep on there.

Anyone have experience with these tires? Are they good for the rocks?

Should I think about these?

http://www.intercotire.com/site32.php

34x9.50 on a 7-9 inch wheel.

Thanks, always a lot of info here.

Comanches rule!

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Front is tricky. There's few good candidates.

 

 

The nearest thing that I can think of is the Grand Wagoneer LPD44. You'd have to get it regeared, and weld brackets onto it. It's a lot of money to drop if you aren't doing it yourself.

 

 

 

It's that or narrow an axle, or go fullwidths.

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Tires are a "Cup of tea" thing. Everybody likes something different.

 

 

People trash boggers, and yet you see comp buggies running them. Normally they cut them, but yeah... But TSLs generally are considered to be good tires.

 

 

 

But they ain't street friendly! They often aren't even round.

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Don't buy new tires if you can help it. You probrably will never recover over half of what you paid for them even if they have less then ayr on them. I know I sold 5 33x12.5's on rims for 300, then I sold my BFG MT's on rims for 350. At the same time, I purchased a set of 5 35x12.5's on rims for a steal as well.

 

 

BY far BFG makes a real good MT, only problem with them is price, and I have ripped 2 sidewalls on them in the last 6 months. Of course they were used, so no warranty there.

 

I have heard reall good things about MTR's, and TSL's are an old school favorite. I am waitng to see some one on som Maxxis creepy crawlers, or treapadors. BTW BFG krawlers rock (especially red labels) Just remember to dig deep if you go to buy them

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Yeah, krawlers kick @$$. VERY PRICEY. And I dunno about you, but I've never even seen a used set for sale.

 

 

GWs are pretty easy to find. Find one with a D44 front and rear, then steal both diffs... Or talk to a wrecker. Who buys GW parts? Nobody.

 

 

Or do what I'm doing, GW D44 front (or maybe a narrowed ford D44, but it's GW width and outers) and an isuzu 12B rear. Disk brakes all around. Both axles can be had cheap (who buys isuzu parts? Nobody). The isuzu rear will almost for sure have 4.56s (some had even lower). Regear front to match.

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Hmmm, maybe I should have mentioned that. Throwing away the D35 just goes without saying normally.

 

 

 

But that is why I said to find a GW with D44's front and rear, and steal both. Or the izusu 12B. I've been checkin mine out and it's a fine peice of steel. You can always get the boring ford 8.8 (explorer, newer ranger) and adapters for the larger bolt pattern (of the front).

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I have the D44 for the rear already with 4.10's, that's why OI wasn't worried about the D35, I had already been told about the poop d35. Hopefully a junkyard will have a GW. Do the 44's come stop on all of them?? or Will I definatately have to shop around??

 

I was going to go with a cherokee to get the auto to bolt up to my 4.0 HO. will the GW auto do the same if I can find one??

 

I need the whole vehivle to do the 4x4 conversion....or will I just make my yard a mess in the process and buy al lkinds of jeeps???

.....I'm gonna go with option B i think LOL!!

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i've got 285-75Rx16 goodyear mtr on 16x8 w 4.25 backspace this is with a rubicon express 5.5 lift kit. seems to work really well with the stock fenders and flares....well just a little bit of a rub when fully stuffed up in a fender and full lock.......

also i'm really happy with the goodyears...they appear to wear well(this is my dd so they are on pavement most of the time) and they give great traction in muck and rock

bob

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