xmeatbagx Posted May 31, 2006 Posted May 31, 2006 I have a 1988 mj and i'm getting a cherokee for parts. I think the cherokee is a 1990... maybe. If I take the front and rear axles and auto tranny, will everything work? My mj is 2wd but i'm trying to make it 4wd. Both have auto trannys and 4.0 motors. Are there any problems i'll run in to?
pingpong Posted May 31, 2006 Posted May 31, 2006 NO there rear axle won't work. The MJ's spring perches are 5/8 narrower then a XJ. So bo It won't work There almost needs to be a sticky on this topic
Pete M Posted May 31, 2006 Posted May 31, 2006 And that's why they don't become stickies. There's waaaaay too many of them. When we get the rest of the site up and running, I promise we'll have tech pages for thngs like that. But back to the question at hand, most everything will work just fine, but you'll need to get your rear driveshaft shortened (the XJ one is 12" too short) and the rear axle perches will have to be repositioned.
CWLONGSHOT Posted June 1, 2006 Posted June 1, 2006 Yes, everything will work to make your Mj a 4wd. Most eveything will be just a bolt in!! As pong said the perches on the XJ axle will need to be removed and new ones welded UNDER the axle in a slightly wider position. That AND the DS will be wrong as well. Its likely that you will be able to have the 2wd shaft shortened. Good luck!!
xmeatbagx Posted June 1, 2006 Author Posted June 1, 2006 why don't i just keep the xj springs on the xj rear and put on my mj? I'm trying to avoid welding. (in case you can't tell, I really don't know much about this stuff)
DirtyComanche Posted June 1, 2006 Posted June 1, 2006 Because it's not the springs that are causing the width issue. It's the spring hangers...
Pete M Posted June 1, 2006 Posted June 1, 2006 Welding IS required. But it's not hard welding, so any competant welder can do it. People have been known to bolt everything together snuggly and then drive gingerly to a nearby welder to have the perches burned in place.
87manche Posted June 1, 2006 Posted June 1, 2006 If they're both auto then they should both be 3.55, unless the MJ or XJ had a tow package or anything. I'd check the rear axle in the MJ, if it matches the front axle in the XJ then I'd just leave it. The front will be all bolt in, I just put a 97 XJ axle under my MJ.
Oizarod115 Posted June 1, 2006 Posted June 1, 2006 i noticed one person said the spring perches needed to be WIDER than the XJ another said NARROWER. which is it? (or i suppose i coudl be less lazy and get out a tape measure, that XJ44 needs to go in sometime soon anyways.)
DirtyComanche Posted June 1, 2006 Posted June 1, 2006 They need to be narrower, I think, actually. Okay, I'd have to check the bloody FSM again. Mj are like 42.5" centre to centre, IIRC. Xj are 44~.
Pete M Posted June 1, 2006 Posted June 1, 2006 Something like that. MJs have the leafs directly below the frame, while XJs have the leafs mounted outside the frame. Of course, the MJ frame rails are slightly wider apart than the XJ uni-frame rails back there so the measurements aren't off by a whole leaf-width on each side.
sinnaevd Posted June 1, 2006 Posted June 1, 2006 I have a D44 with 4.10's in my MJ 2X4. That means that when I grab the XJ to do the 4x4 swap, I will just have to buy one set of 4.10's and install them on the front axle correct? Also what front axle would be best?? not looking to really rock crawl a whole bunch, but possible some. MOstly mudding.
87manche Posted June 1, 2006 Posted June 1, 2006 a D30 is pretty stout and if you get the 297x axle shafts should do OK with 33's. Definitely keep the D44 in the rear of the MJ!!!, It's a much stronger axle than the D35. I'd regear the front D30 to match, 4.10's would be nice with 31's, OK with 33's.
DirtyComanche Posted June 1, 2006 Posted June 1, 2006 Look at it as a cost vs reward situation. There won't be much of a difference in the gearing, although the 4.56s would be nicer. However, having to get two axles regeared would be moocho expensive, eh?
pingpong Posted June 1, 2006 Posted June 1, 2006 would 4.56's be better with 33's? Largely depends on the tranrmision you will be using. Auto 4.56's would be great, but with a manual I don't know. I run my rig with 4.10's and 35's on an auto, but I liked it better when I had the 33's on her
Pete M Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 If I was paying to get gears to go with 33s, the minimum I would get is 4.56. I have 4.10s only because they were the steepest gear offered by Ford from the factory. When I regear, I'll be doing 4.88s (I have a manual trans).
sinnaevd Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 now what do you guys mean when you say the 4.56's would be nicer?? I am still new, but learning as much as I can fast as I can. Is it a feel, or just more power at the wheels? I still want to drive th elifted MJ on the road every once and a while, that's why I was going to go back to the stock feel. But this 4.56 dealy sounds extremely tempting...
87manche Posted June 2, 2006 Posted June 2, 2006 more power at the wheels, easier on the clutch. Puts the motor in it's power band for highway driving, requireing less downshifting and getting better mileage.
xmeatbagx Posted June 4, 2006 Author Posted June 4, 2006 87manche If they're both auto then they should both be 3.55, unless the MJ or XJ had a tow package or anything. I'd check the rear axle in the MJ, if it matches the front axle in the XJ then I'd just leave it. The front will be all bolt in, I just put a 97 XJ axle under my MJ. What's different about a 97 XJ rear?
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