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Chevy drop shackles


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I have heard mention several times that Chevy drop shackles can be used to lift a Comanche, but I have a few questions. I'm assuming these are for full size Chevys, correct?

 

First of all, would I need 88-98 ones, or 99-06 ones?

 

Second, How much lift will 1" drop shackles give?

 

And third, 2" drop shackles?

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I have heard mention several times that Chevy drop shackles can be used to lift a Comanche, but I have a few questions. I'm assuming these are for full size Chevys, correct?

 

First of all, would I need 88-98 ones, or 99-06 ones?

 

Second, How much lift will 1" drop shackles give?

 

And third, 2" drop shackles?

 

... and 4th, I've heard rumors that greasable 2" drops (for 88-98 ) could be had online for $30-$40, but haven't been able to find them any cheaper than $50-$60 shipped...

 

I think the 2" drop give 1-1.5" lift on the MJ's depending on how much "sag" your stock leafs have... But I'm interesting in know for sure as well...

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People use the cheby shackles as they are WAY popular and easy to find.

BUT... About any shackles designed for 3" springs that measure 5.5" or longer (Hole to hole) will work. So all you need to know is the hole to hole measurement and that they will work with a 3" wide spring. This is important because as the shackle gets longer twist ability is increased. To combat this the sides of the shackle need to be stoutly connected.

 

 

Another rule to remember, shackles only move one end of the leaf, so the lift is 2:1. 2" of longer shackle nets you approx 1" of lift.

 

CW

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OK, so this might be a stupid question.... if a 2" Drop Shackle is only going to give me 1" ish lift in the rear and most of the front coil spacers are 1.5"-2" (the ones I took off my TJ and planned on reusing are 1.75 or just a little longer - Rubicon Express)... How off balance will my Rig appear with that type of setup?

 

img1370yg2.jpg

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This is not necessarily so... 2" cheby drop shackles drop a cheby 2" because the shackle is approx 4" longer than stock. (Remember cheby shackles run upside-down compared to our mj's.)

 

For a shackle to net you 1" of lift it would need to MEASURE 7-7.5" eye to eye.

 

I'm unsure the factory measurement of the cheby shackle, so I cannot say what the lift from one will be.

 

Does that make any sense?

 

CW

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This is not necessarily so... 2" cheby drop shackles drop a cheby 2" because the shackle is approx 4" longer than stock. (Remember cheby shackles run upside-down compared to our mj's.)

 

For a shackle to net you 1" of lift it would need to MEASURE 7-7.5" eye to eye.

 

I'm unsure the factory measurement of the cheby shackle, so I cannot say what the lift from one will be.

 

Does that make any sense?

 

CW

 

Not a darn bit... I just want to buy something that will keep the MJ "level" when I slam on those 1.75" ish front spacers...and not spend a ton of $$$ in the process...

 

SW2

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I just went out and measured my 94 Suburban. Don't know if it is the same because it is what used to be referred to as a "heavy half". Kind of in between 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton.

 

Anyway, the shackles on it are 4.5" eye to eye.

 

My Comanche measures 4.25" eye to eye.

 

So a Chevy 2" drop shackle should be 8.5" and should give 2.125" lift.

 

2*2+4.5=8.5

(8.5-4.25)/2=2.125.

 

Right?

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I just went out and measured my 94 Suburban. Don't know if it is the same because it is what used to be referred to as a "heavy half". Kind of in between 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton.

 

Anyway, the shackles on it are 4.5" eye to eye.

 

My Comanche measures 4.25" eye to eye.

 

So a Chevy 2" drop shackle should be 8.5" and should give 2.125" lift.

 

2*2+4.5=8.5

(8.5-4.25)/2=2.125.

 

Right?

 

DUDE, I didn't know Algebra was required... :mad:

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Basically, unless I forgot how to read a tape measure (which would be bad, as I build oak furniture for a living...) and I didn't miss anything obvious, a 1" drop shackle should give about 1" of lift and a 2" drop shackle should give about 2" of lift.

 

the extra 1/8" I'm ignoring, because there is no way anybody will be able to notice a difference that small.

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Guys just remember that the longer the shackle you run the greater the chance of axle wrap and the faster your leafs will start to sag (or break).

 

Also running a shackle that long in direct relation to axle wrap will cause u-joints in the d-shaft to wear much faster.

 

It may be cheaper now to go that route, but in the long run it may end up costing you more money due to the negative side effects of running a shackle that long.

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Guys just remember that the longer the shackle you run the greater the chance of axle wrap and the faster your leafs will start to sag (or break).

 

Also running a shackle that long in direct relation to axle wrap will cause u-joints in the d-shaft to wear much faster.

 

It may be cheaper now to go that route, but in the long run it may end up costing you more money due to the negative side effects of running a shackle that long.

 

Sure but if I"m getting a full bigger lift down the road, I can have a decent setup NOW for like $40 vs the $850 for a full kit with replacement leafs... I could give two smokes if my leafs sag a little more or faster... They are gonna get replaced anyhow...U-Joints are cheap (and probably are gonna go anyhow after 20+ years)...

 

I drove the TJ with a Budget Boost for 3 or 4 years before saving and spending the $$$$ on a full long arm kit... The BB did what I needed it to while I had it. I see this as a similar deal.

 

Optimal, obviously not... economical, sure...

 

SW2

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I just want to buy something that will keep the MJ "level" when I slam on those 1.75" ish front spacers...and not spend a ton of $$$ in the process...

 

 

I just lifted the rear of my MJ 2 inches by adding an XJ main leaf (with the eyes cut off). Didn't cost a penny.

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WadeDucie, just a reminder most lifts for the MJ have an extra inch or so up front, so if your hockey pucks give you 1.75 you may only want 1" in the back. but that's the great thing about the chevy drops, IIRC, is that they have 2 holes, giving you the option of 1 or 2 inches of lift. so if you like the slight rake of a std MJ, you can go with the 2" setting.

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WadeDucie, just a reminder most lifts for the MJ have an extra inch or so up front, so if your hockey pucks give you 1.75 you may only want 1" in the back. but that's the great thing about the chevy drops, IIRC, is that they have 2 holes, giving you the option of 1 or 2 inches of lift. so if you like the slight rake of a std MJ, you can go with the 2" setting.

 

I guess we'll find out huh... I ordered those $40 shackles and now I just need a free weekend and a 12 packer of Bud Light Limes to get pumped up a couple inches and see how she looks.

 

In fact, I need a refill on the BLLime right now, having just finished my School work for the week (34 year old college Senior taking online classes in case anyone cares)...

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a 1" drop shackle should give about 1" of lift and a 2" drop shackle should give about 2" of lift.
That is what it seems it shouldb be, but it doesn't work that way. A 2" drop shackle will give "about" 1" of lift.

 

Guess we'll see when he get s them now... ;)

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I assumed a 2" drop shackle would drop a Chevy 2", so it would be 4" longer than stock. Maybe they mean a drop shackle 2" longer than stock? That would drop a Chevy 1" or lift a Comanche (just over) 1".

 

Like you said, we'll have to wait and see.

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The shackles only raise one end of the springs. If you raise one end 2" and leave the other end in place (can't move that side), then the axle halfway between the two ends will only raise 1", dropping the truck 1".

 

The only way a 4" longer shackle will drop a truck 4" is when you raise both ends of the leaf 4". But only 1 end uses a shackle, the other end mounts more or less directly to the frame.

 

Elementary, my dear Watson.

 

Then again, in high school I read about a guy who was taught 2+2=5. (1984)

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