HellCreek

may work... i was thinking the same as hell creek. but in laymen terms Sorry - Got carried away :smart:

I actually had this happen to me on a 4.0 that was professionally rebuilt. First, loosen all of the rod and main cap bolts so they are not tight. Do not remove the nuts from the rod caps or the bolts from the main caps. That should allow you to turn the crankshaft. Next, verify that the main caps were installed in order from the front to the rear, using the numbers on the caps. Also, verify that they were installed in the correct direction with the arrows pointing to the front. Torque the main cap bolts to factory specifications, starting with the center cap and moving outward from there in both directions. Then check to see if you can turn the crankshaft. If you can, you have eliminated the main caps as a problem. Third, verify that the rod caps are mated with their corresponding rod and in the correct order from front to rear in the block. There should be numbers on the rods and the caps. They need to match and be next to each other when fastened together. Torque the rod cap bolts to factory specs. If everything turns, then your problem is fixed. Sometimes, as in the case of our engine, one or more of the caps, either main or rod, is torqued too high, and that pinches the corresponding journal. Following this procedure fixes that. If this does not solve your problem, someone may have installed oversize bearings on a standard crankshaft. The only fix for that is to install the correct size bearings. Tom

Search eBay for "spot weld cutter". They are special step drills that cut the upper layer of sheet metal and leave the bottom layer to weld to later. I bought a set, and they work great. Tom

We have the Rough Country 4.5" front end parts on our MJ (same as a XJ) along with our 4.5" rear springs. It seems to be a good combination and works well for us. We have never had an issue with any of their parts. The LCA's are short, but after a front end alignment, we have had no problems. Tom

I tend to agree with Adam and Motion Offroad. Full spring packs are always better and will last longer. Tom

Pete is correct. All full-size Bronco rear springs are 3 inches wide, as are F-150 rear springs. Is there really a market for MJ add-a-leaves? If so, we may have to make some. Thanks, Tom

Hi, Guys, Those leaves have been broken for a while. As a spring manufacturer, I can testify that there is only one way that a leaf spring can break through the center bolt hole - there has to be motion in that area, which there shouldn't be. Think about it - if you can't move it, you can't break it. Some of the reasons that the center, clamped area could be loose would be that the u-bolts worked loose, the axle saddle is not flat but has become rounded or the u-bolt plate is not flat. Another reason might be that most aftermarket and some original equipment springs have rounded centers, which would not allow full contact with the flat axle saddle. All of our leaf springs are made with flat centers, as are some of the other high quality springs out there. Just remember, the center bolt area of a leaf spring is its weakest part; it should be clamped securely, or it will eventually break. Welding a spring is never a good idea. It makes the steel brittle, and it will break. Thanks, Tom

I just happen to own a Samurai. The oil fill and check plug on the transmission is about halfway up the side. The capacity is 1.3 L of 75W-90 gear lube. The fill and check plug on the transfer case is also about halfway up the side of the t-case. The capacity is 0.8 L of 75W-90 gear lube.

I got to thinking, and the truck sat in a field for two years before I bought it. The actuator rod (?) may have a rust band on it which would not allow it to move fully. The diaphragm is working or the pedal would not go down when the engine is cranked, but the rod is only working partially. Does this make sense? When I put the new one in, I will take the old one apart and see.

I think it has been that way since I owned it. X2 on the booster - sounds like a winner. Thanks

I replaced the vacuum hose check valve at the booster with no change. The pedal is still hard but acceptable. The truck stops, which is a plus, but the pedal still does not act like I have power brakes. Just used to my full size Bronco, I guess.

Thanks, JT. I tried that, and it seemed to help some. The pedal still only moves about 2-3 inches before I can't press it any more. I assume that the check valve you are referring to is the plastic ell between the vacuum hose and the brake booster. If so, that is where I checked the vacuum. They are not expensive, though, so I am going to replace it. Thanks, Tom

I need the brake Gurus on this one. I have a 1989 2WD Comanche Sport Truck with a 2.5L and power brakes. My problem is that when I depress the brake pedal, it seems harder than it should for power assist brakes. There is plenty of vacuum at the booster. I checked the booster by pressing the brake pedal while starting the engine. When the engine starts, the pedal drops about 1 to 1-1/2 inches, which would seem to indicate that the booster is working. The truck stops o.k., but as I said, the pedal is hard, almost like the booster is not working. Any ideas? Thanks, Tom

Hi, Norris, Don't know how, but the Tupelo, MS, Jeep dealer repaired it. I left it at the dealership and picked it up in two days as good as new - NO CHARGE !! This happened in 2004, maybe things have changed, but according to the recall on the link I posted, they HAVE TO fix it. I would look for another dealer.

Here is the web page on the ABS recall. It is the 3rd one down. http://www.intellichoice.com/reports/ve ... on/recalls Hope this helps someone with the Bendix ABS.

Yep, that is the Bendix ABS. I have one on my 91 Cherokee. Those carry a Federally mandated Lifetime Warranty. I got mine fixed for FREE.

If I ever run across a decent rodeo in the yard I'm just going to yank the whole shabang man... Problem is the few yards that have these things want way more then Ill ever give for it.. Hi, JT, If you can tell me the width, length, thickness and free arch of what you want, I may be able to help you. I can give you everything but the arch.. That I would have to have the springs off right?? I wouldnt mind it being a lil taller then stock, maybe like a inch or 1.5" The arch is one of those important things - that and the thickness of the steel will largely determine the lift of the add-a-leaf.

If I ever run across a decent rodeo in the yard I'm just going to yank the whole shabang man... Problem is the few yards that have these things want way more then Ill ever give for it.. Hi, JT, If you can tell me the width, length, thickness and free arch of what you want, I may be able to help you.

I agree with Adam. It's the TPS. It happened to me on my Cherokee.

Hi, Brent, Sorry, I told you wrong. We use an RB-121 in the anchor eye and an RB-71 in the shackle eye. You can get these from us. Remember, these were the prototype springs. All of the production springs have the RB bushings installed. Thanks, Tom

We use an RB-121 bushing on the anchor (larger) eye. The shackle bushing is the same as factory. Yes, you can get the rubber bushings from us. Thanks, Tom

Hi, Pete, PM'd ya. Thanks, Tom

Hi, Don, Our springs were manufactured with 9 inches of free arch from the center of the bushings to the top of the main leaf. That would make them about 10 inches from the ground to the main leaf as in the picture above, so they did not loose any arch in the first three months. The only reason that we removed them was to test our 4.5" kit. We did test the 3 inch springs by carrying 1400 lbs. of springs in the bed for about 5 miles, but I wouldn't recommend it, that's why we also make the 4 leaf springs. Little known facts: The 980 lb., 1100 lb., 1160 lb., 1220 lb., and 1280 lb. capacity springs for the Comanches are ALL made from 3 leaves of 2-1/2 X .291 spring steel with a .625 thick 2nd stage helper leaf on the bottom. The only difference is in the arch. We have the blueprints to prove it. The 1440 lb. capacity spring is made from 2 leaves of .291 thick spring steel, 2 leaves of .262 thick spring steel, and the .625 thick 2nd stage helper leaf. The 1700 lb. capacity Metric Ton spring is made from 1 leaf of .291 thick spring steel and 2 leaves of .323 thick spring steel, with a 2nd stage helper spring pack made of one leaf of .590 spring steel and one leaf of .625 spring steel. BTW great avatar. :D

Hi, Brent, That noise is the poly bushings. It sounded the same on my truck, so all production springs are getting factory style rubber bushings. Those are the prototypes. To stop the squeaking, you will have to use grease on the sides of the bushing, since that is where the noise is coming from. We ran those for about 3 months, so they are already settled in. Thanks, Tom

Hi, Colorfinger, Yes, they worked fine and gave us exactly 3 inches of lift under the axle. We just haven't put the rest of the kit together yet. We are currently running our 4.5" springs under the axle, and Lead Not Follow is testing our 6.5 inch springs for us. Thanks, Tom