Regger

I was running 6" on my LWB which consisted of 4" leaf packs and a 2" shackle. The shackle actually made the driveshaft angle better because it rotated the pinion up and I had very minimal vibrations if any... And Jage, yes with a double carden/CV you point the pinion at the t/case minus 2* (for axle wrap) and for single u-joints, the pinion and the t/case have to be parallel minus 2*. A SYE won't be need for this lift, but if you are concerned about driveline angles, you can buy a slip yoke that mates to a double carden. This saves you some money from buying a SYE kit, but you would still have to get a new driveshaft... but all in all, you really shouldnt have to worry. Just set your pinion angle good, and hit the trails!!! HTH Ryan

Also, If I'm not mistaken, but the brakes on the MJ are larger in diameter than those on the XJ... But its not a simple swap.. The axle flange bolts patterns are slightly different. I did this exact swap on the G/F's SAS S-15 jimmy that was using my old MJ axles. She blew up the MJ axle, and I got an XJ axle for cheap, but without brakes.. So I had to make a new bolt pattern on the old MJ backing plate to fit. Worked good right up until I swapped it a few weeks ago for a ford 8.8 Also, 87manche is correct in his step by step of setting up new perches, but I prefer to set up the pinion angle while the axle is in the jeep. This way, you get it perfect, and if you are lifting it, or are doing a lift at the same time, the pinion will be exact for the lift. I also prefer to set my perche spacing based the on the frame and not the spring position. The reason for this, was I found out the hard way, that I had a slightly bent shackle(previous onwer smucked a barrier, but told me it was lightly and it just dented the rear fender...HA...) that pushed my rear end over and caused it to dog track. When I put in a new axle, I set the perches equal distance on the axle.. Didnt solve my tracking problem.. The next time I swapped axles, I dropped plumb bombs donw from the side of the frame and measured from those to the axle flanges and centered the axle to the body and frame. At that time I still didnt know what was causing my dog tracking, but even though the perches were not equal distance to the axle, the axle was centered to the truck and made it drive straight I now know that the shackle was bent, and even though it been replaced, I still set up axles centered to the frame and not axle. HTH Ryan

Sorry, but DirtyComanche said it was most likely a 1360, as well a Friend said he ran a bastard joint on his setup as well.. I guess I got somewhat lucky and don't have to worry about that.. As well.... for the metal for the center section... I just did the grinder test last night, and its cast iron... Has a very dull coloured spark when compared to the bright yellowish spark of the steel tubes... I also double checked that against my front D44, that has the cast iron center section and cast steel knuckle "C"'s and the centers were the same spark. HTH Ryan

Just FYI, The 12-point metric bolts for the flange are M12x1.75x25mm Long.. Grade 12.9. So now you can head to any fastener supplier and pick up a set of hex head bolts instead.. Alos, I did some measurements on that flange, and it appears to be the exact same u-joint that is on the D35. The cap diameters are the cap as well as the overall lenth of ech leg. So it doesnt look like I have to try and find a bastard u-joint to fit. I should all bolt up just fine... Thanks, Ryan

Yes even heat is part of it, but so is getting both metals to the same temperature... that is the big key than just spacing. Spacing is just so you don't end up heat bending the tubes and bending the whole axle centerline. They are different metals, the housings is iron, the tubes are steal, and both have very different coefficients of thermal expansion. Just take a grinder to each and notice the difference in spark colour... This is one area I would not want to risk doing improperly... Because welding creates a HAZ (Heat Affected Zone) on both sides of the weld, which will/should break before the weld does. Now if its not done correctly, you;ve just made your housing a whole lot weaker... I'm not saying yours is pinpong, just a general note to everyone... Yes using Hi-nickel rod is the only way to do this.. I researched this for many months and talked to many people and ticketed welders.. There was no subsitute for the nickle rod. For personal curiosity.. go take a good hard look at those welds made with the 7018 rod... I can bet there are hairline cracks in them.. I tried using 7018 on my front D44 diff, because I had to cut some of the housing back on the tubes to fit my brackets, and both welds cracked instantly. One crack was easy to see, the other wasnt. I had to use a die-penatrate to expose the crack in the weld. SO the two welds that are on my diff, are worthless... And that is where I stopped pursuing this upgrade myself.. HTH Ryan

Weird, I've never heard of anyone spinning the tubes in these axles.. And everyone and their dog are running these axles as an upgrade.... My buddy even ran that behind a done-up 350 in his S-10 Pickup... And yes welding would be a b*@$£.. You need to pre and post heat and then weld with a high-nickel rod... PITA.. I think I'll run it like it is.. Its just going in the girlfriends jimmy in place of the D35 thats in the back now... I don't think I have to worry about spinning the tubes with the 2.8L in the thing.... no need for pics.. I have one of those on one of the axles I have. Just didnt know the name for it... I've been calling it the u-joint flange. I just havent checked to see what u-joint fits it.. I've been told that I might have to run a bastard joint to fit my jeep driveshaft and this ford flange... I'll try and figure out the size and pitch when I unbolt the thing to go get the proper u-joint for it.. Thanks, Ryan

Any local sping shop should be able to make you a set.. or have something kicking around that will work.. Bring in a smaple, or at least the tube diameter and the total length. As it always best, when having to remove the u-bolts.. to replace them.. They do strectch and fatigue over time.. HTH Ryan

Why is that?... I've never heard of these tubes spinning in the housing.. Has that been a problem?... Companion Flange?.. What exactly is that?.. Thanks, Ryan

is it really safe to weld it all up yourself though? If you are asking this, then I would recommend you don't fab your own... That piece of equipment is what holds your truck to your axles.. if that should fail.. stuff will go BOOM!!!! I've never heard that before... Springsd are going to sag overtime, its a given... using the full movement of the spring will fatigue them faster than just normal daily driving without a load... So if adding a shackle, is going to get you bigger tires and get you out wheeling and flexing, then they will sag faster.. But I would not say that just adding a longer shackle will sag your srpings... Its all on how you use them. Well, like I said, mine are 8.5" long and I've never had a problem with them in over 10 years... But then, I trusted my welding and fabbing skills... So I had nothing to worry about... If you can't find a set of shackles that will work for you, I would recommend going to a 4wd shop, or a fab shop and get them to make you a set. HTH Ryan

My stock shackles were 4.5" long... because I built myself a 2" lifted shackle (4" longer) and they are 8.5" long.... I think making them yourself is the only way to get a shackle length you want... This was my first attempt at customizing my truck and fabbing my own parts, and for being a kid at the time. I must say they held up pretty good!!! I'm still running them now, 10years later... Thanks, Ryan

Well, if you have the time, I would say it would help, because IO think with only two bolts, you will really be testing their strength due to the torque that 4L can produce.. But then again, run it with two, and if it breaks, fix it.. if it doesnt break.. your good to go!!! Yup, I'm a Member of HOT, and do post on BC4x4 ..... Thanks, Ryan

Well, I ran 3 bolts for as long as I could remeber and had zero problems... But running two bolts, you might be pushing it.. Is there anyway for you to ream out or enlarge the holes some to allow for the remaining two bolts to be used?... And be careful on keeping the bolts "bloody tight"... As the tranny is aluminum, and can strip very easily... hence, the reason for me only using three bolts :shock: HTH Ryan

If I remember COrrectly, the difference in length is about 1.5".. Longer for the MJ shackle... Which nets about .75" lift when used on an XJ... And if I really think back to what my stock shackles were, I beleive they were 4.5" long stock, and that makes the XJ;s, about 3" long stock.. HTH Ryan

I wouldn't say they are overrated.... Its all on how you set them up... THey are awesome in that they allow you to hang out the side of the truck and see whats going on, plus they are enough to keep the red&blues off of you.. And if you are concerned about them on cold rainy days... then either don't put them on for that trip, or get a piece of vinyl window made to snap on them (as long as you didnt cut the frame) with a zipper to open the back portion like a window(just like the YJ's) and now you are back warm and cozy... Thats my plan and I'm sticking to it:D Ryan

DOH!!! I see it now, I wonder why i didnt see it before... Maybe because I was expecting to see a radio button, and not a text link... Oh well, my Bad.. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction... Ryan

Hey Pete, I have this on a few other boards I'm on, which is a "View New Posts" button that will show you all the new posts since your last logged on visit.. Its a neat little feature especially when we start getting more forums.. Saves you from having to look through each forum at a time.. Just a thought... HTH Ryan

Well your almost right in your calculation but don't half the value of your spings. They are 2" and thats what you add... So if you have 2.75"axle, +.75"perch+2" spring gets you 5.5" of lift.. Or an easy measumrent method would be to measure from the top of the tube to the bottom of the spring. You should measure 5.5" because your basically putting the bottom of your spring ontop of the tube HTH Ryan

Thanks, but I don't think its that big.. That should be enough to clear 36" Swampers.. which is all that I need. But i guess in comparison to a stock truck it is high.. I just havent grasped the different yet as its still in the garage awaiting the front axle to be finished... has anyone else grabbed some measurements from stock? I'm just wondering if we should be try and take a measurement from the top of an axle tube to the underside of the frame or something. I'm thinking that mayeb the flares could be slightly different or cause differences in measurement? I just don't think I have 8" of lift (based on the 19" measurement) if I have a spring over (at least 5" of guaranteed lift), plus 2" shackle (guaranteed lift), and then my 4" springs (not guaranteed, but with 2 AAL's could not have sagged 3"). I had 6" of assumed lift before the SOA on the D44, and that cleared 33"s nicely, and I can tell there is more height now then before as the 35's are almost lost in the wheel wells... I also had a 3" front coil spring, and 3" spacer up front, and the truck sat pretty level. Now with the new 8" springs up front but with 33's, (should only account for 1" difference in height compared to the 35') the truck has a serious front end rake problem!! And I measured 3" difference to the fender flares from front to back.. so I should be pretty close... Although... all this could be blown out of the water if my truck was below stock height from the beginning.... Man I wish I took measurements of before and after and not just pictures...DOH... Ryan

Actually I would say that 19" is high.. I just went out and measured the rear of my 88, and measured 27"... Thats with a 4" lift springs, 2" shackle and a spring over on a D44... That should equate to roughly 11" of lift... so I would say that the stock measurement should be around 16-17"... HTH Ryan

here's a few of mine.... Stock ( just brought it home): My Infamous Lake Side Poser Shot: And Finally an actual wheeling Poser Shot: Current Specs: 88 MJ Pioneer, 4.0L, 5spd AX-15, 33"s, 4.10's, ~6" lift, OBA, etc. Future Specs: D44 front(Power-Loc), D44 Rear (Spool), 5.89's, 36" TSL, Custom Long Arm Front, 3/4 Elliptical rear, ~10"frt & ~11"rear lift, SYE, custom bumpers w/winches front and rear, full rocker protection, etc... Current Status: In the garage with no front axle, and the rear axle just bolted in. Hopefully completion will be mid 2006. Thanks, Ryan

Do you know where that is? It looks a LOT like a place northeast of here. (Although, I know it's not.) It's been a long time since I got that off the web, but I believe it was from the B.C. area. Jeep on! --Pete Hey Thats me!!! I'm famous!!!!... well okay, not really.. I have hundreds of my pics circulating the net!! But that is one of the best ones!!! Yes it is from BC, actually its Hale Creek, at Harrison Lake Just North of Mission. That was probably one of the last trips it went on before it went under the knife... and sadly, its still not finished. But hopefully within the next year I get the axle swap done and go back for another picture in that same spot. That would be a cool before and after pic. Thanks, Ryan