Regger

Yeah, I'm gonna bob the bed... but at this moment, I just want to get the thing running!!!... I'm not even thinking about getting bumpers and sliders on it untill it gets moving under it own power... So most of that will have to wait... So far the whole doubler kit will have cost me $500 for the intermediate shaft and clocking plates, and a used np231 for the crawler box... Not too bad considering anything else might be cheaper, but would require a lot more time to make work... I'll let you know how the doubler works when it gets moving early next year... Thanks, Ryan

Well, its been 3.5yrs since the MJ was taken off the road. (The most noticeable pic of my truck) The axles were ripped out and thrown under the Girlfriends S-15 Jimmy for a very Nice SAS swap. But ever since, the MJ has been sitting... with Me being too lazy to do anything with it. It also doesnt help that I have 3 vehicles to maintain (2 are DD's, and one is a dedicated trail rig) and 2 ATV's as well. Plus I just bought a house... So the time on the MJ has been next to none.. Until Now... Since my excess spending money has been reduced to nothing, ( this is where that house part comes in ) the time that I used to spend my excess amounts of money, are now being diverted to spending on the MJ. A Little history on my project... I was coming to a point in my wheeling, where the current setup was not working... in that it wasn't getting me to where I wanted to go. So I had a couple choices, either spend more money in making my current setup better, (basically dumping huge money into boat anchors) or ripping that setup out and creating a new setup from scratch. I chose the later as I ripped out the axles already... So the plans are... -Use Grand Wagoneer D44's -5.89 gears w/Spool rear, Power-loc front -Disc brakes all around -Custom front long arm suspension with a goal of about 8-10" lift and no axle brackets hanging below the front axle tubes -Full Hi-steer and cross-over steering with Hydro-assist -36" TSL -Dual t/case's Thats the main idea in a nut-shell plus some small misc. ideas as well So where am I currently at.... The truck is up on blocks with the rear axle only bolted (not welded) as SOA, and carboard templates of the frame brackets. Thats about it.. probably not even a full days work... its sad, I know.... But that is going to change... I guess I was somewhat smart in my excess spending days in that I bought the majority of the parts needed for my project back then. So now that I have the time to spend, stuff will get done... Just this last week, I started on the dis-assembly of a 2nd t/case to be used as my crawler box for the dual t/case setup. I'm basically using the front reduction box of the t/case to go between the ax-15 and the rear np231. This will take my crawl ratio from 61:1 to 164.5:1. This is being installed first, along with my SYE, so that I have an idea of what angle to set my front and rear pinions at. And once I get the t/cases done.. the next on the list is to have a bunch of my club members over, and we're going to go to town on all the front frame and axle brackets. Hopefully I can get all the brackets designed, cut, and tacked on the axle in that one day. That is the biggest hurdle of this project... cause after that its all the small stuff... that takes the most time... ie:, cutting and turning the knuckles, installing gears and lockers, converting to rear discs, re-doing the front discs, etc.... SO there is my run-down. I'm hoping to have this project done by early next year so that I have some time to make a few local runs, make any changes, then load it up and head down to Moab with the Club for Easter Jeep weekend. Thanks, Ryan

NOw usually if the site gets hacked.. doesnt it mean that Pete doesnt havent any control of the site... most likely since this asshat probably changed all the p/w's!!! Ryan

Yeah, Petes right.. be very careful with those frame bolts... for one reason.. they use Pem-nuts..... Nuts that are pressed into the frame.. If you have even the slightest of rust in there, and give you it a good shot with the impact.. chances are you will spin the nut loose.. and now you have a loose nut with a rusted bolt attached stuck in the frame... Not a good combination.. I know, my t/case skid plate nut has spun loose.. Luckily, its still tight enough that the skid doesnt rattle, but still loose enough, that I can twist it out of the way.... hth Ryan

Yes, There are 4 holes per frame rail for the cross member. the 1st and 3rd are used for the BA10, and the 2nd and 4th are used for the AX-15. But be carefull when removing and installing the bolts. Use lots of PB Blaster to remove the studs, and then chase the new threads with a tap to grit rid of the almost 20years of crasp collectiiong in the, Also, you will need the AX-15 tranny mount... Its different then the BA-10 and also a whole lot cheaper... HTH Ryan

As an an old dirty motorcycle mechanic used to tell me when I was working with him during the summers as a kid... "KY Jelly.. You can slip a mosquito's a-s-s over a telephone pole with that stuff!!! I've never forgotten that old guy... Silly side story Off-topic... He came in late one day, and I asked him why?.. He said he was at the Dr.s office.. seeing as he was in his late 60's, I asked if anything is wrong.. He said "Nope, but that Dr. is full of BS!!!".. I asked why?.. He said " That Dr. told me I'm weak!!!".. I said, but your in your late 60's of course your weak.. He said" BS.. when I was a kid, it took two hands to push my Hard-on down.. Now it takes only two fingers!!!!" :eek: Sorry, if that was a little too rude.. But I had to share that!!! It's one of the funniest lines I have ever heard!! Ryan

Jeez.. That guy(mentioned in the first post) must really love Chevys, cause that is all Hummers are.. Glorified Chevys... Chevy Engine, Transmission, and T/case... And if Hummers are all that.. Then how come this happened to a club members H1 on a very small rock garden: (its a chevy 241 T-Case) And it had to be taken home like this: Hummers were built to drive across the sand , climb 2' walls, and carry a bunch of guys with big guns.. Thats it... Anything outside of that duty and its a big oversized POS!!!.... And I know from having wheeled with one many many times.. and having to fix it when it broke.. thats how I got that broken t/case picture.. I was the one lying under the thing removing all the driveshafts so we could tow it out of there!!! Which the MJ did marvelously!!! Thanks, Ryan 88 MJ.. H1 Puller!!!!

Basically, yeah, just hole saw the end of the square stock, and then weld on the pipe (I think its a sch 80, or 40, that fits the rubber bushings perfectly) and Bobs your uncle... (or in my case, my Dad).. Its exactly the same as if using round stock, just that its sqaure.. So it makes notching it a little more tricky but still doable... HTH Ryan

A buddy designed a rear 4-link setup using square stock. And it held up to as much abuse as this guy could put it through.. And he wasnt easy on it, as he wheels on the island here which has some of the best and toughest rockcrawling in this corner of the country!!! As well, he used stock rubber leaf spring bushings (for a toyota Land Cruiser) on the axle and stock ford radius arm bushings at the frame. This thing flexed real well, and had almost zero road vibrations.. Yeah the rubber wears out faster than poly, or heims, but at $2 ea, he could afford to replace them. Plus every single parts store will carry them from here to tim-buck-too!!! so no matter where you are, you can always get your hands on some. But these things are tiny, compared to some of the bushings out there... I'm still deciding on these myself.. The only bad thing about using rubber, is if your links are not 100% inline with zero binding, you will have serious wear issues as well as binding issues... My plan at the moment is to use square stock and these rubber bushings, but I am not 100% confident on how my alignment will end up with my long arm design.. This is a first for me for this type of fab work that requires such precision... I've done SAS's with Leafs and shackles with awesome results, but this is the first time I'm diving into the 4-link design... With that being said, I've found some cheap ball socket joints that allow over 20* or articulation and are less than $20 each. This would definetly solve my alignment issues, but like the tractor links, have zero vibration absorbtion... But since this is no longer a DD... that isnt a huge concern... AS well, I'm also contemplating round stock as well.. Although not the super expensive DOM, but the more economically priced ERW tubing. And having access to a lathe, I can cut my own threads, so the thicker I can get the tubing the better... which will make up for any strength difference the DOM has over ERW But then again comes another decision... do I want fixed links which offer zero flex due to them being one solid piece, but requires very precise calculations and welding, or do I go with the threaded inserts that offer adjustablitly but that can also provide flex from the threads and an area that can fail.. So I myself have some serious thinking to do ,yself on how I want to build this MJ... Sorry JOMJ87 for taking up a huge part of your thread with my banter.. I hope some of it helps you with you decision as well... Thanks, Ryan[/img]

Thats some awesome info there 512tr... now we know the true answer to the difference between what injectors do what... However, I'm still a little skeptical about the true performance that bigger injectors can priovide.. The only reason I say this is from my experiance with my Dodge Diesel.... Granted we're talking apples and oranges I'm sure... But in my real life experiance.. for my dodge, I installed bigger injectors... I lost 1 mpg on average for fuel economy, I get more black smoke when I'm hard on the throttle, but gained over 50HP at the rear wheels.. And to me, that was well worth the money, and the loss in fuel economy.. Not I'm not up on the gas performance... I was quite happy with my MJ when it was my Daily driver, but since buying my Dodge, and doubling the horsepower and torque, I've kind of got the performance bug. My MJ is no longer the DD, so fuel economy is not a huge concern, granted I don't want to be stopping at every gas station either... But now that I will be turning some 36" meats, I'd like to give it a few extra ponies under the hood to help it turn those tires... So to make my long post very short... Does the bigger injectors incrase HP? Thanks, Ryan

That is also a good way... Say if you do 1/4" plate steel as far back along the frame as possible and grab as many bolts as you can. They you can weld the d-ring hitch to the side of the plate and the back of the bumper, and the front of the bumper and you'll be very strong.. My current plan for my front bumper, is to use 2-1/2" squre hitch stock in the same was as I described above on both frame horns. Then I will have the option of sliding in a D-ring hitch receiver, on either side, or slide in my front tow-bar. Just in case it needs to be towed somewhere... I wouldalso haev the option of using my ball hitch to make it easier for parking my trailer and what not... HTH Ryan

When I did the front bumper for a buddy, we did a couple different techniques to ensure it was strong. This was on a square tube bumper. - We welded it on the front of the bumper -We also welded it on the back of the bumper - And while I was at work drilling out the 1" hole through the 1" thick stock, I also milled a 1/2" x 1" square hole towards the end of the stock. This meant, that when the stock was slide into the bumper and welded, the square hole was flush with the back of the bumper. I then slide in a piece of 1/2" x1" bar that was about 3" long through the hole and welded that to the back of the bumper as well. So this meant that all the force was not being directly applied to the welds around the hole, but also 1" on either side through the flat bar welded to the back of the bumper. He did some major pulls on the those d-rings and not ths lightest bit of defflection after a number of years. HTH Ryan

Okay, then why do I hear of people all the time installing bigger injectors on their stock motors?... I know you have to for the strokers, but for the stock motors, its just a waste of time, money, and fuel???.. I KNow on my Cummins Diesel, it mad a huge difference, 50HP injectors gave me just that... yeah I lost about 1mpg, but it sure gets out of its way real fast now!!! My main reason for wanting new injectors, is that mine have been sitting for a few too many years and were on their last legs before the truck went into storage... so I figure, when it comes out fo storage, I might as well put in new injectors, and figured why not go with something that would net a little more HP to turn the big meats it will soon be sporting Thanks, Ryan

I myself was thinking of using square tubing for my lower links. I've seen it done numerous times, and was even told to use it by Rob "Rye guy" Bryce (who had a really awesome MJ) as he used it on a 4 link rear design he did on a Nissan... He said it was very strong and really cheap compared to the round tubing I was going to use it on its side so to speak, so that the corner is facing down, kinda of like a diamond.. THis would provide more strength when I drop donw on to a rock or log.. But one question... They mention using programs such as winmiter to help create the notches in round tube... Does anyone know of a program that works with square or rect. tubing to either round or square tubing?.. Thanks, Ryan

Hey Folks, A few of you have mentioned about increasing fuel line pressure... HOw does one go about doing this?... I'm thinking of upgrading my injectors to try and get a little more umph.. out of the MJ.. I don't care too much about fuel economy ( as long as its not in the single digits for mpg) as this will be a trail rig.. Thanks, Ryan

Pretty easy to get a good one from a JY.. try to get one with all the hoses still attached, that way its not exposed to the elements... And once you have the pump, just spin the front pulley and make sure it sucks on one side, and blows on the other... You can also add 12v power to the clutch lead and make sure you hear a click and the pulley doesnt free spin.. Then you good to go... HTH Ryan

So whats the final verdict???... Does longer spring perches help to prevent axle wrap or creates more axle wrap??? From what I've been reading on here, they help prevent axle wrap... Just want to confirm... Thanks, Ryan

I still don't understand the how the spring pack is thinner 2" back from the stock perch.. Yes it might be thinner by about .030" due to the taper of the overload, but in the picture I posted... I don't see how the pack is thinner... Maybe another 8" further back where the 4th leaf ends, ... Sorry, maybe a hard measurement to show the "thinner" difference your talking about.. HOw so.. a leaf spring setup is a leaf spring setup no matter what vehicle.. Where both talking about SOA setups, in which no matter what vehicle its in will still generate torque to twist the springs... I figure the Jimmy is as close to the MJ as you can get since it was SUA, it is now SOA, it also sports the MJ's D35, the rear ends weighs only 500lbs more than an MJ's, and it has a 6cylinder powerplant.. pretty damn close to a MJ setup if you ask me.. .. oh No, I love a good discussion.. cause hell, if I've been believing something wrong all these years, I sure would not want to keep on believing it, cause what I believe I pass on to others that ask for my advice... but I need some solid evidence and proof that my thinking is wrong before I switch thinking... I agree that an excessively long perch will hinder suspension compression... but in excessively long, I would say like 12" long or longer.. but not 8" long where your only 2" longer each side of stock.. And in the Mj's case, the spring has such a large arc to it, that for the spring to negatively inverse to the point its bending around the spring perch, it would have to bend well past the stock bump stops and further... Now if we were starting out with an already flat spring at ride height... then yes i agree that a longer perch would not be best as the spring will negatively bend under normal suspension travel, and not under huge flex situations. Pete, as for pictures you requested... I'm trying to get a buddy at work to create a force diagram drawing based on a SOA leaf spring setup.. so we'll see if he will or not, unfortunetly, I don't have high hopes for this... It sure would be nice though.. Thanks, Ryan

Ahh, your trying to get technical now eh...????.. Well I'll see what I can come up with on my end.. but it might not be for a few days.. have a busy week and weekedn ahead... I'll see what I can do.. Thanks, Ryan

Pete, don't know what pics your looking for.. but the only one I have is of the G/F's perch when we did SOA on her jimmy... HTH Ryan

Bounty Hunter, I have to dis-agree with you on this... Axle wrap is caused by the spring going into a "S" shaped pattern.. And this is caused by the very small contact point on the spring perch allowing the "S" shape to be produced.. By increasing that point of contact, it is a lot more difficult for the spring to go into the "S" shape because it has such a large flat spot preventing it... The "S" is only created from the end of the spring perch to the eye bolt.. The longer that distance the easier it is to "S". By having a longer spring perch, you are reducing that length, there by making it harder to "S"... Its known, that the shorter the spring is, the less axle wrap you get.. and vice versa, the longer the spring, the more axle wrap. So in a sense, by making your spring shorter with a longer perch, you will reduce axle wrap.. AS for transferring torque to a thinnier part of the spring... I don't get you on this... The only spring that is tapered is the overload spring... The rest of the springs in the pack are of equal thickness throughout their length.. And even at that, a 2" difference in length along the overload, I measured at only a .030" thickness drop... So its not even enough to be concerned with at all.. AS for limiting spring movement... this would only happen if you are negatively arching your springs... at which point the overload is going to cause more force on the spring to bend that way, then a longer perch would.. And as for MJ springs, they have so much arch in them, that I don't see how someone could negatively arch their springs, without stuffing the tire into the wheel well firts.. Unless they are running really small tires, then maybe.. BUt who runs a lift with small tires anyways???? :nuts: My girlfriends S-15 Jimmy has been running 8" long spring perches for 3yrs now with zero axle wrap. And in comparison, a buddy just put s-15 springs on his toyota pick-up with a stock perch (~4" long) and he has a serious amount of axle wrap.. SO that is my real world experiance to back up my statements above.. THat is as cloce of a comparison I can get without cutting off the 8" perches and putting stock ones back on and measureing the wrap then.. which I don't want to do... And everyone and everywhee I have researched has backed me up on longer spring perches help axle wrap... YEs you can have too long, but where only talking 4" longer than stock... So unless there is a whole other realm of info that proves me otherwise.. I'm sticking to what I know... Thats my thoughts, and that is why the MJ has 8" long perches for the SOA its getting Thanks, Ryan

The ones that I made for the girlfriends truck were 8" long.. and after 3yrs, have had zero axle wrap and zero problems... The ones planned for the MJ SOA are also 8" long... That should do well for you.. HTH Ryan

I wired my fan in with a switch and in conjunction with my parking lights. So I can turn the fan on or off with the switch inside the cab, but my parking lights must be one first... That way, my lights buzzer will go off to let me know my lights are on if I forget, and when wheeling, leaving the lights on won't kill the battery and I know from a distance if the fan is on or not... Its worked for me for many years... HTH Ryan

The history on that, was it didnt pass their vehicle inspections there because of a rusted frame/unibody... And being the kids they are, why not!!!... personally, I get my kicks by buying $200 cars each year and spending a day at my buddies farm with a bunch of other friends and make a crash and bash race!!... Just as much fun, but your beating the snot out of cars that don't matter anyways!!!! Ryan

Yes, that would probably be why they were the same if they were both c-clip styles... Thanks, Ryan