1987Comanche

Convert your AX-15 to an external slave! I used a LUK clutch kit for a '96, bellhousing & front bearing retainer from a '95, and the pilot bearing for a '90.

:thumbsup: I have a few things I can contribute...

Apparently I need anaerobic sealer

You didn't start with an engine remanufactured in Mexico. At least I'll be able to see if the cam bearings are coming out of this one...

Non A/C, non HD cooling trucks got the 61 Amp, 4 3/4" case alternator. Adding either of these options gets you the 5 1/4" case alternator (105 amp I believe). The larger case alternator is a direct swap for the smaller one and it's cheaper too! You will, however, likely confuse the people at the parts store...

The crank should be ok as I used a brass punch to drive the last RMS out. The engine has zero miles on it so unless they screwed up the crank (always a possibility) it shouldn't be scored or worn. I have anaerobic sealer for the end tabs of the bottom half of the rear main and I'll use just a touch where the 2 seal halves meet. Additionally I'll put just a bit on the chamfer on the end cap, as per the FSM. I have engine assy lube for the seal lips. FYI only found one RMS for this truck...the Fel-Pro seal. BS 40612 Pete: What finally worked for you?

Started engine #2 first thing this morning and broke in the cam. Seems to run ok other than the rear main leaking like a sieve. Guess that will be my after Xmas project...

I finished wiring up replacement engine #2 last night about midnight and fired her up first first thing this morning. This engine seems to run ok and I completed the cam break in but the RMS leaks horribly. I replaced it when I had the engine on the stand and did everything by the book. I'll try it again with another 2 piece Fel-Pro and anaerobic sealant but I can't figure out why it leaks. Any tricks I'm missing?

Finished building up reman engine #2 and put her in yesterday. I ended up having to pull the balancer so the clutch would clear the input shaft. It's in and I have a fair amount of the accessories bolted back on. Hopefully they did a better job this engine than the last POS...

She probably does. I thought she'd be happy with a new engine, trans conversion to external slave, and perhaps a new hood... It was an ATK engine. They supply reman engines to all the chains (I confirmed Advance, Auto Zone, O'Reilly, Pep Boys, Carquest, & NAPA) so the only way around them is Jasper or to rebuild a core locally. The parts store is working with me thus far...they agreed to pick up 1/2 the cost of the gaskets, etc that I need to do this project again. After engine #2 is in and runs I'll have to go after ATK for labor.

That was exactly why I went for the reman engine to start with. I had $2200 in the engine/trans rehabilitation before reman engine #1 had to come back out. Yes, I hope the guy in Monterrey, Nuevo Leon, Mexico does a better job this time around...

Renix vs HO flywheel. On Renix the teeth are positive (they stick up). 3 sets of 20 teeth with a space between each one. HO flywheel teeth are negative (slots milled in the flywheel). Spacing is virtually identical. 3 sets of 20 slots with a space between each one. I have my engine out right now and the flywheel is on the ground. I can put up a pic of Renix flywheel if you need it.

Yep, it was an ATK reman long block, purchased from the local parts store. I shopped around for price as I found out that all the stores (Advance, Auto Zone, O'Reilly, etc) get their engines from ATK. My original plan was to rebuild the engine from another '90 that I helped a friend pull but the block was cracked at the threads for the passenger's side bellhousing bolt. Not including the crack the work estimate was $2200 and the ATK rebuilt was $1200 with a 3yr/36K warranty. ATK's original answer was that I'd have to put the engine on a pallet, ship it back, and wait 4 weeks + until they got around to tearing it down. If they agreed the issue was their fault they'd send me a replacement. The parts store intervened and authorized them to ship me a replacement engine. I yanked reman #1 out yesterday morning and swapped them for reman #2. I'm talking to the store about replacement gaskets & fluids now...

Pulled reman motor #1 yesterday: Maura waiting on reman engine #2

It looks like my MJ is turning into the never ending project. Reman engine #1 is defective. At 282 miles the cam bearings started to self-destruct. I pulled reman engine #1 back out and swapped it for reman engine #2. I did, however, get the store to deliver the new engine to my house (no MJ, no way to pick it up)....

Went back in to change the leaky rear main on Maura: http://comancheclub.com/topic/27930-my-1990-and-some-pics-of-the-old-87/page__st__20 and found this: So it looks like my engine has to come back out. The parts store is getting another one for me but to say I'm ticked off would be an understatement. I can only think of 3 reasons the bearings would self destruct like that: 1. Too much runout in the cam 2. Wrong bearings 3. bad surface finish on the cam Anyone else know why the bearings would do this??

I found this link and there seems to be a lot of useful info here: http://www.witchhunter.com/injectordata1.php4 The 710 injectors have a 14.3 ohm resistance vs the OE Bendix/Deka 3956 injectors resistance of 16 ohms (listed in Siemens/Bendix section). Does this make a difference? It also seems the yellow top injectors can be either Bosch or Denso. Here's the Denso injector that seems to match up almost perfectly: E6TE-A2B 16 ohm, 194CC flow, EV-1 connector. 2956 (OE): 16 ohm, 202CC, EV-1 connector I think the E6TE-a2B injectors came in some of the 5.0s but that's been hard to pin down thus far.

I have a driveability problem with the reman 4.0 I put in my '90 MJ. After sitting for an extended period of time (5 hrs+) I'll have 3-5 sec of mild backfiring at startup. It seems that it's either an injector leaking down or a sticky intake valve. Given that I still have the OE Bendix/Deka injectors I would suspect these first. A few years ago I tried the Mustang 5.0 injectors but my truck did not like them at all. Since that time both the ECU and engine have been replaced so she might take that transplant now. I wanted to find all of my options and here's what I've come across thus far: -Mustang 5.0, 19lb/HR -Tuned port Camaro, 19lb/hr -GM 3.8L, 19lb/hr -Ford 4.6 (crown vic), 19lb/hr It appears that I need an EV-1 style injector with a flow rate as close to 18.6lb/hr @ 39psi and 16.5 ohms resistance as I can get. Has anyone looked at anything other than the 5.0 injectors?

I stripped the cylinder head this week and scrapped it. It was rebuildable but would have needed a lot of work: Also picked up a cool piece from a friend. It's a NOS Mopar MJ/XJ front end cover. I'll put the hood protector on after I find a nice hood at the jy:

I didn't find any corresponding gouges in cyl 1 that match the horrific wear on the top piston ring groove (see album in project section...I added pics). It seems like a section of the piston ring broke, stayed more or less in position, and wore the ring groove out. It's the only explanation I can think of but, as you can see, the engine was a mess!

This engine was horribly neglected for most of it's life. Based on the rust in the cylinder walls I think she was parked for an extended period of time before being resurrected (I bought her with electrical problems). It's amazing that I got 20K out of this engine. I didn't see anything in the cylinder walls that explains piston #1: Check out the rust: The ridge was pretty bad as well: Good and bad rod end caps side by side: My old 4.0 off to it's new life as a coffee table!

I'll take a thorough look at #1 and see what it looks like. The engine is still upside down on the stand (need the harmonic balancer puller from Auto Zone) so I won't be able to look at the walls until tonight. This engine isn't being rebuilt but it is slated to become a coffee table at a friend's house :D . It's just as well. I think the #3 rod bearing spun and the #6 piston must have had a cracked piston skirt...it came out in 2 pieces. I put the other pics of the autopsy in the project section (see top of pg 2): http://comancheclub....-of-the-old-87/

Check out the sludge inside this motor. This 4.0 had 137K on it when I pulled it but, as you can see, it had been horribly neglected. I managed to nurse 20K miles out of the truck after buying her but I definitely pushed it.

I'll get pics of the cylinder walls after I pull the crank (have to rent the harmonic balancer removal tool again) but, in the meantime, I'll post a few pics of the sludge

I am kind of ticked about the rear main but I'll go back in and take care of it at some point. It was a ton of work but I'm glad she's running/driving again :yes: . I started autopsying the old engine last night and found that thing was in horrific condition. Piston #1 had some weird problems with the piston ring groove for the top compression ring: My rod bearings were in bad shape too. Take a close look at #3. Why is the backing on both sides of the rod down to copper? I'm assuming that means I spun the rod bearing? I definitely had rod knock at startup but this is pretty wild: And of course there's #6. The piston skirt must have been cracked. None of the pistons required much force to remove but 6 came out in 2 pieces! You can see how it's scuffed on the sides as well.