JeeperjohnfromPA

Well I figure I'll 'touch up' some of these welds with a grinder. :brows: I stopped back at the welding store today and picked up a modest welding mask, ($38.00) Up to now I only had a set of goggles. :oops: My face was feeling it. This new mask took a bit to get used to, as its much harder to see, but I actualy think it helps me do better. Well Junk yard run planned for tommorow. :thumbsup: Got a little wish list made up. Doors are on sale,($22.00@), till the end of june and I realy need a driverside onewith all the chrome trim, ofcourse I'm sure to need some other thingies too. :brows:

Ok so the Roofing tar is out. I'll look into some Polyurethane based stuff. POR isn't the answer as we are talking about filling in gaps between metal so as to stop mud/road crap from depositing there and causing problems later, the metal will already have been coated with Rustoleum/POR or some such stuff. As for the Rods I picked up, they were the 6011, 1/8, they say 45-80amps. They seem to work ok. I suppose if I knew what I was doing these welds would look better. :roll: But I'm still getting the hang of it. I haven't been able to do any welding the past two days due to rains in the evening here. Well we needed the rains anyhow.

I had the the woobles in my YJ, never could figure it out. Usualy when it would happen I would drive through it, or slow down for a bit, it would come and go arround 60-65mph. Anyhow one day think it was arround 200k miles the front left rotor seperated from the hub. Once I replaced the front rotors, the old beast lost it's wobbles. Turns out the recall for the front rotors that I ignored from way back was due to composite rotors. They were made from two different grades of metal, and in the northern part of the country,(salted winter roads), they were realy screwing up. Well your truely tries not to use the brakes :evil: I down shift alot,:driving: and always cleaned up after a good romp in the mud, so the things lasted me that long. :D So if you have the old composite type rotors :dunno: Maybe you wanna take a look at them too.

Oh yeah Eagle Don't I know it! :headpop: I had figured on giving it a coat of paint, then sealing it up with some realy thick roofing tar, or maybe some sort of caulk. Any suggestions on what to use?

HEHEHEHEH :D just being a wise guy,,,, :D

Yeah, I sure Miss that old Scrambler. :cry: Had a lot of good times in that ole Jeep. :cheers: Funny thing too, I saw one last fall at a car dealer in NJ. Thing was mint too, ALL STOCK no modifications, I stopped in and enquired about it. It was garage kept by an elderly gentleman who could no longer drive it, (so the saleman said). It only had 57k miles on it. :eek: It was a straight six, with a fourspeed stick, just like mine was, same year, same color. I looked it over real good, couldn't find a speck of rust! This guy must have baby'd it big time! The dealer wanted $13,000! :eek: Now I love those old Scramblers, and to be honest it was realy sweet but :cry: I just didn't have the $$, (got too much debt as it is). It was only there a few weeks before somebody scarfed it up. ah well, maybe someday,,,,,,,,,,,

In the southern part of the US they would call those rockers SHOT, not Good. However, in the northern part of the country, I think they call them GOOD simply because there is something still remaining! The Driverside Rocker looks about as bad as mine! but not as bad as my passengerside rocker! Good luck with it!

Go with the OD green. It will blend in more with the woods, and you can always touch it up with any flat color, just do it in squigly blobs and it will look like camofladge.

Found these photos the otherday and scanned them into the computer. I know they aren't MJs, but figured I'd share them with you anyhow. Image Not Found My old scrambler, off roading somewhere in the pocono mountains about 1986? 87? This was a logging trail me and my friend in a CJ7 followed up into the mountains. Picture of my 1991 Yj on Nantucket Island, in 1993 another angle of the YJ. I truely wish I never sold that old CJ it rocked I still have the YJ, (bought it new in 1991, has almost 260,000 mileas on it now, and still runs strong). Well just thought I share those pict with you all.

Hi I've been posting messages in MJ projects and in tech, Figured I'd better introduce my MJ here. Ok I picked it up last month, (laborday weekend actualy). I had been looking for a Comanche, with a longbed for a bit. Finaly found one that suited my purposes,(well suited my budget actualy). I traded a 1993 Jeep Wrangler for it. The Wrangler had a bad 3/4 syncro gear, needed an exhaust and new brake lines. I don't think it had a straight piece of metal on it either. Anyhow I traded for a 1987 Comanche pioneer with a longbed, 4.0L, 4wheel drive. The Truck came with a Cap for the Bed, which I will getting rid of shortly. The one of the PO's had painted it, and painted over all the chrome trim :mad: It's a little rough to look at, and needs work,but I'll have it road worthy soon enough. To start it needs new parking brake cables, new brake lines to the rear, new brake shoes in the rear, and has a host of other little 'issues'. I'm realy starting to love this truck though, inspite of how much work it needs. Seems that Jeep made a good one with these MJs, they are pretty simple to work on! I've got a lot done so far: Removed the bucket seats, carpeting and stupid foam, Wire wheeled the inside of the cab and POR15 in there. now am working on getting some patches welded into the cab floor. Removed the gauge cluster and replaced it with the full gauge cluster, (mine had everything but the Tach so it was an easy swap). Removed the Rear fender flares, wire wheeled and POR15, (gonna need to use some bondo on those spots). Dropped the Gas tank, (gonna paint it, and POR15 the mounting straps) I plan on removing the trucks bed so I can have better access to the trucks frame for repair/rust proofing, so that was mian reason why I dropped the gas tank. Removed the Parking brake cable bracket from under the bed. I picked up new parking brake cables at NAPA, but will install them after all the body work is done. I started a thread in MJ Projects check that for updates on my progress

Pretty Lady, Treat her right.

Welcome to the Comanche club Steve. :cheers: I'm pretty new here myself. This place is great if you need advice, or have questions. I've found a ton of usefull information, and other members are always happy to offer advice/opinions too. I've got a different build in mind for my MJ, I basically just want to restore it to a semi-stock daily driver. I Personally am a Jeep Junkie, I would have bought a new Pickup truck, if jeep made one, but since they don't, and I want a Truck, I'm forced to restore this old MJ,,, So Far I must say it's an awesome truck. I am shocked at how simple it is to work on. I'm also please that the junkyards have plenty of XJ's to scarf parts from. :brows: Anyhow, Welcome, again, and keep us updated on your progress!

Actualy the guy recomended 3/32 or 1/8. :smart: From the conversation we had, I gathered that the 1/8th rod might be a bit better when I actualy started on the frame. Did I few more welds last night. perfecting my technique. :brows: :cheers: Wife is into this truck. She is actualy letting me work on it at night when I get home!, (she sure must wanna drive it!)

NO way! :eek: I'm not chopping off the bed in my Pioneer! :nuts: I NEED the long bed. This baby is gonna be more for light duty work and a daily driver. I gotta keep it street legal! :driving:

Yes, I'll definately put up some pictures. 8) Thanks for the copper backing plate idea, might come in useful, I have a decent sized piece of Brass that should work too? Can't wait to get home today, crack open a beer and get a couple more welds done. This Comanche needs to be road ready ASAP. Mainly so I can take my YJ down for some much needed repairs, ( rear springs are VERY tired and need the add a leaf kit I bought a couple years ago installed! Not to mention some gaskets, etc, etc,

Seem this old 115v Arc welder that I got from my father-in-law does work after all. The welding rods he had were no good, a new box of rods and the thing works ok. I started welding in some sheet metal in the cab floor. I used 1/8th 45-80amp rods, set the welder at 50amps, took a bit to get the weld/bead going but it works! I'll get some pictures up as soon as I've got one piece welded in decent. I'm going to take off the trucks bed. so as to have better access to the frame for welding/repair/rustproofing. Anyone have any pointers on bed removal and re-installation?

OK I took Eagle's advice. I looked up a local welding gas and supply shop. I went there, talked with the guy a bit, got a few pointers and a 5lb box of 1/8th rods, 45-80amp. was only $17and change. So it took me a bit to get the setting right on the welder. It took me a bit to get the technique down. The welds aren't pretty but they seem strong enough. Geuss the other rods were just too old/crumy. Yes, Eagle is right it's hard to do sheet metal with an arc welder, as it's too easy to burn a hole through the sheet metal. However, I had fabricated a couple of pieces to patch the floor in the cab, these pieces have about 1" overlap with existing metal, so when I did burn through here and there, it didn't matter Being as I never used an Arc welder before, I'd say I'm rocking now! Thanks everyone for your advice/opinions.

Well seems that a welder worth owning isn't in my budget for the near future. :cry: I'm gonna try getting a new pack of welding rods for the arc welder I mentioned earlier in this post. See what I can do with that, maybe atleast I can weld some sheet metal for the cab floor. I'll have to see If the Brother of this guy I know can make a house call for the heavier stuff on the frame. If not I'll rent one. Just can't afford to layout $500+ at this time... Thanks again for all the advice/input. You all rock! :cheers:

Thanks everyone for the advice, Thanks rockhardzj for explaining the different types.:smart: Swampedmj makes a good point that it can make the truck alot better so thats part of the payback. :typing: I'm not to big on harbor frieght though. I'd love to just take it somewhere and have somebody else weld it. I'm trying to keep the $$ down though. I'm gonna check with a place I know and go to and see what he might be willing to work out. More then one of you has mentioned not wasting money on a cheepie welder and getting something good. POINT WELL NOTED. I did pick up a stick welder for free, from my father-in-law who recently passed away. :cry: He woulda liked this MJ, prolly woulda been a good help with advice and how toos,,, It did have some rods with it. I tried using it, testing on some scrap, but can't seem to get a bead going. Perhaps those rods have been sitting arround to long? It dosen't look like a very good welder, seems sorta cheapie. Most likely wouldn't be strong enough to weld anything thick on the frame, maybe some of the thiner stuff in the cab? I just went out and looked at it. It's a Mity Mite arc welder model # 90701 made in Italy for Schumacher Electric of Chicago Il, (do I smell harbor freight?). Its a 115v unit, can easily be picked up and carried with one hand. its rated output is Arc volts 23, Weld Amps 70, Duty Cycle 10%, max OC volts 37. Is it even worth getting a new pack of rods and trying it? :roll: I've got a buddy, whose brother has some welding equipement. He is always fixing things for people and making a few bucks in the process. I'll have to see if he does house calls. (maybe a 12 pack might entice him)? :brows:

I see that a decent welder is gonna cost more then the truck is worth. Being I have no planned use for a welder, other then this truck, perhaps I should just rent a good one for a couple of days?

Ok, I need advice. I've never welded anything, except a few decades ago in highschool shop class, and that was just a spot welder. :roll: I need to weld in some 'patches' to the cab floor, and also I need to weld some heavier pieces to re-inforce the frame. What Type of welder would work best, and how hard is it to use. I've had a couple people tell me to get a MIG welder. I've heard mention of a TIG welder also, whats the difference between the various types of welding equipement? I realy don't want to spend alot of money on a welder, so I might just rent one when I'm ready. But again I've no experience with welders so I'm asking for advice/opinions. Thanks in advance for your imput,,,,,

Ok, so I been thinking about it, (and checking out the forums), I'm gonna have to take the bed off. Well I don't have to, but to do it right I should. 1. I need to replace all the parking brake cables. 2. I need to redo the brake lines to the rear. 3. I've got some frame rot that will need to be repaired and re-inforced. 4. The sparetire holder/elevator is rusted solid and needs repair/replacement. 5. I realy want to halt the cancerous rusting process that is occuring to the frame. 6. I want to stop the rusting that is on the insides of the bed. Seems to me that Taking the bed off will be the easiest way to proceed. It will allow me better access to the frame for any welding I need to do. and allow me to clean it all up and rust proof it properly. I've checked out the posts here as to what I need to do and I think I can handle it without any problems. My only concern is rusted bolts/nuts. I've already dropped the gas tank and removed the bracket for the parking brake cables. I've read that someone said the bed is light and just two people were able to lift it off. What I realy haven't read about is putting the bed back on. Obviously it's the reverse of taking it off. Anyone who has done this have any pointers for when I go to put it back on?

I discovered a little trick for stuborn bolts and nuts. When they are rusted on realy bad, and all 'normal' methods of removing it have failed try this. First heat it up with a propane torch, tap it a few times with a Ballpean hammer, (while it's still hot). Then after it cools down spray some liquid wrench or PB breaker type stuff on it, and tap it with a Ballpean again, let it sit an hour or so. Now instead of trying to loosen it, try to tighten it. Not alot, just a little. If you can tighten it, even just a little teanie bit, there's hope. If it tightend a little, spray it again with the PB/liquid wrench, and try to loosen it a bit. DON'T try to take it all the way off yet, just loosen it that little teanie bit, now spray it again. Now tighten it just a teanie bit, spray it again. Keep repeating this process, after a several times you should notice it will start to loosen more and more. Just keep repeating this process, and tap it with the Ballpean after each time you spray it. It takes some Muscle, and paintence, but can save you the headache of re-taping a hard to reach spot, or having drill out a snapped bolt/stud. The Key here is to try and tighten it at first. By tightening and loosening it you'll work the spray into the threads better, and eventualy it will come loose.

Indeed, sounds like what I'll be doing, the old Broom handle won't make it's way in there, but I'm sure I'll figure something out. Sounds like the strong rubber hose might do the trick! I've got a wirebrush that has bristles 360 degrees, and is flexible. perhaps that on the rubber hose,,,,,,,, The fact that you did your Pontiac 7 years ago, and is still looking good,, gives me hope. :D ;)

My wife loves our old MJ, she says she can't wait till I've got it all fixed up and she can take it for a cruise!! Funny thing, Thats what she said when the guy delivered it! I personally though it looked like a piece of Sh*t. The PO had painted it and painted over all the chrome, the driver side door has two tears in it from the old low profile mirror that got ripped off. It has the UGLIEST bed cap on it. and just to realy make it ugly it has those gold custom stock rims from a dodge caravan on it! She agrees that the bed cap is ugly and must go, but insists she likes the truck over-all. Personaly she can have the truck after I fix it, if I can have her 2001 Cherokee limited! :brows: