summerinmaine

I did something similar with my BMW 2002Tii, using a spare washer bottle (see upper left corner): Fortunately, it's old enough that it's exempt from Calif. inspections.

A bump, just to see if anyone has any thoughts on my idea of using a flat plate to match the Moab sliders to the MJ brackets. Then I'll stop pestering. Really. :brows:

There is no real reason to run different sizes IMHO. IIRC stock is 225/75/15 but mine (and every "stock" one I've seen) came with 235/75/15. The real difference between those sizes is minuscule, and both will easily fit on the stock rim.

Wow! Thanks for all the input! I'm just about ready to pull the stock buckets, and wondering why I shouldn't just fab a couple of 20" square plates of 3/16th mild steel or aluminium that would bolt to the stock floor brackets on the bottom, and to the sliders on the seats. As I see it, the only reason the seats won't bolt to the brackets is the the brackets are ~6" narrower than the sliders (though I haven't yet measured to be sure). It seems that the seat height wouldn't change that much. Any thoughts?

I'm not familiar with the 2.5, but can't you just thread a "T" fitting in there, and run both from the same place?

Thanks Pete, you're right about that. Out it goes! Then coat the flooring with POR 15, and slop on some sound insulation?

Thanks jared. Mine is a Baja Rig, and I live in a very arid region, so even serious wheeling doesn't tend to involve any water. :brows:

Sorry about that. I've been told on numerous occasions that I have too many words at my disposal. But I try to select my words carefully. Force of habit.

When I pull the seats to fit the new buckets, should I tear out the carpeting? It's in okay shape, and there in no apparent rust anywhere in the body shell (love these SoCal trucks), but I've heard that a lot of you tear out the carpeting. Is this just so you can detect incipient rusting? If not, what other reasons? If you do, what do you do for sound insulation? Temperature insulation isn't really an issue for me.

Now that I have the Moabs mentioned in my other thread, I'm going to be looking for some good aftermarket belts. Cam lock or toggle lock four point belts are probably the target, as I don't think an anti-submarine strap is necessary. Anyone done this, or have any recommendations? Any experience with fitting the lap belt to the existing anchors, or fabbing anchors for the shoulder harnesses? I have Simpson multi-point belts in my Lotus, but again that is probably overkill for the MJ. I think I have an in to get NRG belts cheap. Any experience pro or con with these? Thanks.

Rather than try to find used MJ or 2D XJ buckets, I just bought a pair of (virtually) new seats for the BajaRig. These seats seemed like a good deal (especially at $200 for the pair). Corbeau designed them specifically with the Jeep in mind (though not the MJ of course :brows: ) and they are readily adaptable to 3, 4 or 5 point seat belts. They fold forward, and have the sliders. Unfortunately, Corbeau wants $90@ for the "adapters" to fit the MJ/XJ. Has anyone fit these seats into the MJ? Without having pulled my stock seats, it seems that I should be able to remove them from the floor brackets, and bolt or spot weld the Corbeau sliders onto the brackets. If not, does anyone have a pic of the Corbeau adapter so I can fab a copy?

Mine is an 87 Pioneer SWB that seems to have the Metric Tonne package (at least, all the components I've heard of), but I thought the package only came on LWB vehicles.

There's a freeware program called IrfanView. Download it and use to resize your pic.

Had one something like that in a tool kit that came with one of my bicycles. It was called a dogbone wrench, and looked a bit like this (but better crafted): [/img]

As a quick fix (pending replacement?) why don't you just clean it up to remove oil from the outside and wrap it with duck tape?

The highway patrol tends to frown upon that method of towing. :D Just when you least expect it, the dragon comes to call. :brows:

Driving back down from the Bay Area last weekend we came across a real mess. An F-350 had been towing a ~26' RV trailer, and things had gone bad, real bad. On a relatively clear stretch of road, the F-350 was wrapped around itself, and still connected to the trailer, which was turned turtle and gutted like a trout. Never underestimate the power of physical forces.

Thanks! I'll do that.

Thanx! I was just up thru that area, but not with the MJ.

The 4" lift and other suspension mods (adjustable track rod and LCAs) were done before I bought my MJ. For a number of reasons, I'd like to have my suspension and steering checked over by a specialist. Any recommendations for San Diego? Thanks

Anyone can edit a wikipedia article (hence the "wiki"). Just sign up.

My tires are stock (235/75/15) though I might decide to increase a bit at a later date (I have a 4" lift). The engine isn't sick, exactly, just tired. It has ~300K on it AFAIK (but 155# compression across the board). I can hold 65 in 5th on level ground, but any gradient at all starts to show (and since I don't live in fly-over country, gradients are everywhere :brows: ). So an engine rebuild is in the near future (and I'll probably do a stroker), but I'm trying to approach things systematically, knowing that I'll want gears, tires and engine rebuild in the not-too-distant future. Just wondered if re-gearing could pep me up some until the engine craps out on me.

I have an 87 4.0L with a BA10/5. Dana 44 in the rear, 30 in the front. So I assume I have 3.07 gearing, right? Fifth gear is virtually useless, even on the flats. I've gotten it into 5th on a downhill, but have no real reason to do over 70-75mph in the rig (I go to Baja or the desert, then everything is dirt track). What's the best (i.e. reasonable cost) way to re-gear to boost the performance a bit? What are my options for gear-sets? I've heard of 3.55, 3.73, 4.10 and 4.54.

Not to my taste, but . . .

Yeah, thanks for that. But what if you need to SHORTEN the effective LCA length? :brows: