Carl'sMJ

I decided it was about time I started my project thread... Vehicle: 1992 Jeep Comanche 2WD, 6' bed Engine: 4.0L, I6 Transmission: AX-15, 5 spd. Axle: Dana 35 3.55 w/ Trak-Lok Suspension: Rear AAL Here is my truck in its current state... I am currently replacing the floor pans and fixing up the cab interior. The truck splits time with my '01 XJ as a daily driver and it currently has just over 126,000 on the odometer... Winters in Michigan have started to take their toll so I am planning on more body work in the near future. Alot more updates to come on the floors and interior.

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Here's the link for Sherman Parts... http://shermanparts.com/ecat/base/dropd ... &year=1992 Not sure that they're the cheapest but I've had good luck with them. I'm installing their replacement floor pans in mine right now. They say they are for a Comanche, but I think they are actually for a Cherokee. They work, but are requiring a little work to make them fit. Part # 075-40L/R Floor Pan Front section Part# 075-45L/R Floor Pan Rear section They also have rockers for the MJ listed... I have not used these... (yet :brows: ) Part # 075-02L/R Rocker Panel Hope this helps. Keep us posted on what you go with.

The seat mounting studs are just attached to the channel itself. They do not go through to anywhere or hold anything. Go around the channel again and make sure all the spot welds are completely cut. It may help to take a hammer and chisel to go around and make sure everything is free... The chisel may even pop loose any remaining remnants of spot weld. If you plan on reusing the channel I would just leave the seat mounting studs alone... There is no reason to bother removing them. I just got done with POR-15 the inside of my frame rails.

That bumper will fit the MJ... one of the few that I've seen out there for our trucks. It's not a bad bumper for a stock replacement look. I've had one on my truck for a while now. I would reccommend coating the inside of it with a good undercoat to help it last because the black powdercoat is not the greatest.

Like the topic says, I've been considering switching over to synthetic oils and I am considering doing so in the motor, trans, and diff. I've been doing some research on the site here and it seems to be a good choice... However, I'm still trying to see how much of a benefit it would be for me and my application. I'm also concerned about developing leaks. I have a 1992 (that splits time as a DD) with a 4.0L that has 126,000 miles on it. AX-15 5 spd. and Dana 35 with Trak-Lok. I change all the oils on a regular servive interval and try to use quality oils and filters. I've been using Castrol GTX 10W-30 and a Wix filter in the motor. I've heard that it may help to use a synthetic blend and then go to a full syn to help avoid leaks... Any truth here?

Thanks for the heads up... I'll have to look into that! :cheers:

I'm not sure if cutting off the bumper and tying into the existing bracket will work. It's gonna depend on what type/brand of bumper you are going to use. Pics would make it easier to diagnose your problem if you can get them.

:ack: My question is why would someone do that... especially to the frame! Where and how is it welded?

Here's a question for you guys with some POR-15 experience... Well, I've got my floors torn out of the cab now, but before I weld in the new pans I wanted to POR-15 the inside of the frame rails. There was a fair amount of rust on the inside of the frame and I spent some time today knocking/wire brushing the loose rust off... How carried away should I get with prepping the surface before painting the POR on? I've got the Marine Clean and Metal Prep from POR too. I've been looking at the instructions from POR-15 and it seems that in order to get good adhesion it is actually preferable to paint the POR-15 on rust rather than smooth metal and I kind of figured that just knocking the loose stuff off should be good enough... I was just curious how much prep you guys did before painting and what the results were. Also, Did anyone topcoat the POR inside the frame rails? I didn't see any reason too, but I was just curious.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8325 This is the DIY Topic I used as a guideline when I replaced my wiper linkage bushings.

I only have a "Min/Max" power setting switch and it's a gasless unit that uses the flux wire. It is currently set up with .030 wire. I plan on getting in plenty of practice first, but I just wanted to make sure I wasn't setting myself up for failure with this welding unit on the 22 ga. sheet metal.

I need to make some patch pieces inside my cab to supplement my floor pans that I am currently replacing and since I am new to sheet metal work I had a couple questions... What guage is most auto body sheet metal? I have some 22 ga. pieces that I thought would work well, but I was concerned it might be too thin. I will be welding the panels with a small 90 amp MIG welder and did not want to run into problems "blowing through" the sheet metal because it was too thin. I'm new to welding as well. Any advice is appreciated.

I just got took out these braces about 2 weeks ago... It was a bit more difficult because of the thicker metal, but my 3/8" spot weld cutter went all the way through. I bought three of these cutters from Harbor Freight for $5 a piece. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth ... 95343.html They aren't the best quality, but they have managed to get the job done cutting out all the spot welds on the old rusted floor pans on both sides of my cab. I only had to use a drill bit for a little better angle on the welds that held the brace where the floor pan meets the side of the cab. I plan on using my braces again too so I was careful and it turned out alright. I pretty much started drilling out the spot welds and then started working (pounding) a chisel around between the brace and the floor pan. The chisel popped any of the remaining metal that the cutter didn't take care of... It took some effort, but I'm pleased with the results.

:agree: YES! :yes:

I had to buy both front and rear section floor pans from Sherman's to cover the entire floor in the cab. They're listed as matches for both the XJ and MJ. The fit is decent and has required some minor work. The part numbers were: 075-40L/R (Front) 075-45L/R (Rear)

Nice... I'd be curious to see how they fit. They look like a nice floor pan. I'm currently in the process of replacing mine. I bought my replacements from Sherman Parts www.shermanparts.com and the fit is pretty decent. However, they don't come with the holes for the seat mounting studs drilled which is kind of a PITA. These ones from Motion Offroad look to have the holes pre-drilled. Price is about the same as the ones I bought from Sherman's.

I would look at routing the wires between the cab and the bed. Our trucks at work route the wires from the Back Rack between the cab and bed through a hole drilled in the back of the cab and sealed with a rubber grommet and then along the drivers side of the truck under the trim and kick panel then up to the fire wall. Those holes at the bottom of the bed bulk head are for drainage. I just don't like the idea of wires running inside my truck bed where they are prone to damge from the cargo I am hauling.

Did you fab those cross braces? I'm currently replacing my floors and was contemplating whether that brace on top was really necessary... What's your thoughts? Truck looks great! Keep up the good work.

I thought that the oil pressure idiot light was all or nothing :dunno: I didn't think it was supposed to dim with varying oil pressure. Could someone clarify this.

Check out this link. http://www.atigunstocks.com/p-44-mosin- ... stock.aspx I've seen the "sporterized" M44 and M91/30 stocks advertised other places too... Search around on the internet and you'll definitely find some hits. I'm glad to see your not going to cut up the original stock. Too many of these rifles end up this way. They are fun rifles and very effective... Many of them are still very actively used by the Afghan Muj today.

Have you thought about a PT Cruiser at all? My Dad has had one for about a year and it has worked out well so far. It would work well for hauling some stuff, however, while it will get better mileage than the XJ or MJ, I don't think it gets 30 MPG. It is a little bit different look and I have talked to alot of people who don't like the way they look, but to each their own. As far as quality of craftsmanship... IMHO good luck finding it with anything out there foreign or domestic manufactured.

Might as well take care of this while it's out... I used this post to help me along with mine... Thanks and nice work LEAD NOT FOLLOW :thumbsup:

Interesting... I'd almost consider running a similar piece for the bottom license plate holes to stiffen it up a bit and then attach a couple rubber pieces to the back behind the license plate to act as isolators so the plate won't flap around in the breeze and beat up the paint on the tailgate.

Thanks CW for posting that info for everyone to see. If the info in the e-mail is correct, I'm glad to see that people are aware of this situation and Citgo sales are struggling in the U.S. As was mentioned earlier there are other oil/petroleum products out there that come from Citgo under other brand names. A few years ago I noticed that the local auto parts brand oil was packaged by Citgo. Let's be honest, Chavez is a nut job and anyone who disagrees needs to look no further than the world leaders he associates himself with i.e. Iran's Ahmadinejad and Russia's Putin. Make no mistake about it... these are enemies of America. They don't care about your political outlook, your an American and the enemy... We are already battling foreign fighters in Iraq and Afghanistan trained and supplied by these regimes. We will be fighting these guys formally soon enough.