Bounty Hunter

You need the unit bearing, or hub, at about $125 a pop. All '84+ XJ's and MJ's have them.

Never heard of that hose being servicable, thought you had to replace the entire clutch slave.

We were just through there going up to Wisc. Dells and back. We're in Monroe Co. a little south of St. Louis on the IL side.

whowey, where you at in IL? What farm supply store do you have near you?

Cool. And if that doesn't work it takes about 5 minutes through the backing plates. I generally adjust the rear brakes on friends jeeps when I have it here working on it. They get it back and really think I did something extra (and hard to do ;) ).

Many gas stations in the states have it, mostly for BBQ grilles and RV's. Popular with CJ's around here.

If you've got oil blowing out the front of the valve cover into the airbox, the CCV system is clogged and working in reverse. The front hose is supposed to pull from the airbox.

From working on both I'm guessing the detent ring that holds the shifter into the tower is the same. Let us know what you find out. I've got a spare AX5 shifter if you end up needing some parts.

My '95 FSM covers the YJ and XJ, so the MJ's aren't lumped in with the XJ's in the FSM's?

POR15 is another option for rust treatment/prevention.

It's a vacuum operated switch. Vacuum operates the front axle disconnect, and this switch detects the disconnect is engaged via vacuum from the disconnect. The switch then activates the dash light. Newer jeeps have an electric 4wd switch right at the front axle disconnect.

Check the 3rd vacuum connection at the front axle disconnect, it's the one that signals the 4wd light.

I went with Tacoma (WA) Speedometer, 800-6SPEEDO, thanks to help from NAXJA. They shipped it out same day, good source if anybody needs anything.

Dealer says they can no longer get a 31 tooth long speedo gear for the '88 231, any ideas on where to get one? Part number I came up with is J3212731 which supersedes 52068153. Any idea what drivetrain combo had this long 31t gear?

I'm not into flaring ;) I got rid of my rear bias valve, just running a single line from the front proportioning valve to the rear rubber brake line. I used a XJ proportioning valve rather than block off the 2nd rear line. Why? Because I had one on hand. Running an XJ prop. valve, or capping the 2nd line on the MJ prop. valve, are both safe. It basically makes it the same setup as the XJ. All that second line is good for is adding fluid for the rear bias valve.

Have you tested the TPS? It's pretty simple to do on the truck.

What kind of upper mount is that on the track bar? Looks like something off a YJ. What's all the MJ'ers doing to protect the fuel tank?

I've hit the limiter on my '95 2.5L a few times, but I'm never looking at the tach :shock:

What's the Renix 4.0L rev limiter set at? Anybody know about the HO or the 2.5L MPFI limiter settings?

Take the Mobil 1 out of the AX15, it'll ruin your tranny. Buck up to some Redline MT90 for smooth all-weather shifting.

87, what fluid you running in that AX15? Swap in Redline MT90 and you just may take care of most if not all of your complaints with that tranny. Yes, I think it's that good.

The Peugeot case halves split from front to rear of the jeep, and have left and right case halves. The AX15 has a 1" intermediate plate between front and rear case halves (the seams are side to side).

Glad to have you here, Eagle. From my experience on NAXJA I can honestly say I won't bore of your expertise. Guess I'm gonna have to join NAXJA, to be an official member of the Midwest Chapter.

You will need to install a 23spline input shaft into your transfer case to run the AX15. Easy.

PingPong, you're not raining, our '98 XJ with tow package and auto had 3.55 gears, never seen the 3.73 with the 4.0L auto tow setup. Eagle, nice to see you here.