Bounty Hunter

My fuel guage is reading in reverse, from E to F as I drive (I wish it were true, but yes, I'm burning gas not gaining any). Would this be a simple fix by reversing the two leads from the sending unit (the two opposite the ground)? I run an '88 4.0L shortbed and swapped in a fuel sending unit from a '91 2.5L longbed (same part number). I then swapped in the full-guage guage cluster in place of the idiot light cluster. I don't remember which direction the old fuel guage swept, but I'm pretty sure it worked correctly. Anybody else experience anything like this?

Most jeeps are 2.25" inlet and 2.5" outlet.

I don't think there's any reasoning behind the roll pins, sometimes they come off easily regardless of what the tranny is out of.

Gets it out of the way of what? The external clutch slave is from '94+. You'll need the bellhousing, clutch fork, throwout bearing, external clutch slave, tranny front output cover, and possibly the clutch and clutch master cylinder.

I've always ground off the weld and then hit it with a BFH.

EOD = Explosive Ordinance Disposal, right? The D30 disco will either have 3 vacuum lines, or 2 vacuum lines and 2 wires. Sounds like they switched over in at least '91 if that's what his jeep has. Not all D30 disco setups have the 4wd light switch on the fender or firewall. I recommend disconnecting the linkage arm from the transfer case and moving the sector shaft manually with a 3/8" wrench. If this doesn't shift it properly, I suggest taking the case apart and seeing what's going on. The 231 is very easy to rebuild, I'd do it for you if you were near St. Louis.

Remove the isolator, install the spacer, and then reinstall the isolator. Keep in mind that OEM isolators are stackable to customize the lift height.

I often flip my disco over and it holds the shafts locked together perfectly. Takes about 5 minutes before and after the trail, until I get my D44 installed. I wouldn't spend $100 for something that does the same thing.

I sold a similar woodgrain dash overlay like that on Ebay, came out of a '93 XJ Country.

My '88 4.0L SWB and '91 2.5L LWB had the exact same fuel pump. Yours should be the same.

"Window Window Window"

I've read fullsize Dodge coils will work too.

The quiz said '83 was the first year for the XJ, isn't it '84?

Left them wipers on until the water reached the top of the windshield. Just when you think you've been in some deep water :lol:

Good to hear, this is why I asked :lol:

Check out this awesome wheelin vid: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid ... +r&pl=true

I've got my MJ loaded down pretty good with two D44's in the bed, and it's resting nicely on the overload springs. Great for hauling but I'm concerned it will greatly reduce flex when wheelin as the spring won't compress enough. Is it safe to remove the overloads? It sits a little high in the rear with the SOA and 5.5" coils, so I think it'd be pretty level without them. Of course once they're out I would miss the load capability. Ideas?

There's a whole other thread. My 2.5L 2wd '91 has that super rear shaft, it ever come on a 4wd?

Roadless, I disagree. I really don't think a bad trackbar can 'cause' death wobble, but more 'allows' a vibe to progress into a death wobble. A vibe has to begin, such as out of balance tires or hitting a bump in the road. This would be the 'cause'. This vibe or bump progressing into death wobble would be 'allowed' by a bad track bar, something a good track bar would prevent. The track bar is not the cause, as it can't induce the wobble.

If you all could be so kind as post up your driveshaft length, and what drivetrain combo it's behind, I'll make a list. Then maybe we can put it in an FAQ post so somebody would know where to look for a donor. Thanks. Be sure to list year, wheelbase, engine, tranny, 2wd or 4wd. Go ahead and list the front DS length if available, in the static position.

If I remember right, will check shortly, my 4.0L/AW4 rear shaft is also 43.5". Your 4.0L/AX15 rear shaft is about the longest OEM shaft available for a 4wd, except for maybe a 2.5L/AX5 combo. IF you have a driveshaft rebuilt to work in your truck, it's cheaper to have a longer shaft shortened as it'll take an entire new tube (steel cost $$) to lengthen a stock shaft.

Which was the first midsize truck produced, the Comanche or the Dakota?

Make sure this hole has vacuum sucking into the crankcase, otherwise your CCV system is not working correctly. The vacuum line at the rear of the valve cover should suck into the intake manifold, and the valve cover will draw air in through the front line to the intake, or as you have, a filter.

Got a pic of the other side?

Sounds like you need a parts truck, like a shortbed. If you are ambitious enough to make the cab larger, I'd just bolt on a shortbed and bob the frame in the rear. Yes, you need at least an 8k winch. With that much HP, consider sticking with the stronger 231 TC.