TNT

I have a some bends I'm going to need to do. If you have a bender and are willing to help let me know. :D I can supply beer, parts, or cash as needed. :cheers: If you would also have any extra tube I will buy that, otherwise let me know what die size you have so I can buy some. Thanks

I know it will work, but was wondering if it's been done before. I was hoping for some technical input from some for mine/everyones benefit. I bought it SOA with the Stanley springs. It had about 9.5" of rear lift and 6.5" of front lift. I lowered it because the driveline was too short and the yoke was binding. The springs have 4 leaf including the overload spring. I plan on replacing the overload leaf with a thin leaf I have and redoing the axle mounts to keep the lift as low as possible. I want to keep the longer shackles, but move the upper mounting point up 2". It will also help keep the springs from dragging as easy. I would gain 5" of lift from the SOA swap and lose 1" by relocating the shackles. Combine this with the lift the springs have and it will be about 8" total. For the front I'm trussing a '94 non-discconect axle, raising the spring mounts 1.5" and raising the control arm mounts 3". This will level it out and improve the control arm angles, but that's a whole tread by itself... I tend to go outside the box when I build. I guess you'll have to follow my build-up tread to see whats next....

Exactly... :cheers: I only want to gain 4" of lift compared to where it is right now.

I'm fully aware that a shackle will only provide a 50% lift for its length increase. :nuts: I was mistaken about my shackle length, they are 7" center to center, the rest of the lift is from the Stanley replacement springs. Here is a picture of it with 6.5" lift front coils, the shackles and SUA leafs. The tires are 33x10.5's. Image Not Found here's a picture of it SOA with stock shackles and the 6.5" of front lift. The tires are 33x12.5's. Image Not Found As you can see the rear springs are about 3.5"-4" lift springs. The SOA swap added 6" since JeepcoMJ made the mounts about 5/8" tall and left the overload leaf on. So now that the BS is done, how about a response to the question I asked???

Here's a summary... I'm using some 6" long boomerang shackles and some Stanley springs which nets about 4" of lift. I plan on swapping back to SOA but will be replacing my overload leaf with a standard thickness leaf. This will add 5.25" of lift with my new low profile axle mounts. 9.25" of lift is too much. Image Not Found My plan... I want to plate the sides of the frame, cut a notch out and move the upper shackle mount 2.5" higher so it is inside the frame rail. This way I can keep the improved ride and flex that the long shackle provided after I corrected the mounting angle. I will only gain 4" of lift this way when I go SOA. The front currently has 6.5" of lift which will be changed to level it out. The plates on the sides will also create a mount for the rear bumper I'm building. I my also swap in some different rear springs so it's no so high. Ideal lift hieght IMO is about 6".

Properly set-up I prefer to run without it. If you tow that's a different story...

My bet is this was the cause "oh, and it was in 4wd as well" and this was after the fact "the front driveshaft universal intermediate assembly blew the f*k up".

I know they are 30 spline and I also know that alloy 29 spline 8.25" axleshafts are stronger then stock D44 shafts.... Stock fo stock axle shaft wise the D44 wins, but I was comparing upgrading to alloy 8.25" shafts compared to stock D44 shafts. BTW spline count isn't everything, the material the shafts are made from, if the splines are cut or rolled, the profile, the pitch, the pressure angle design, and how they are hardened makes a difference too. If you want to compare spline counts and sizes check out the pinion specs. (8.25 axle) Number of cover bolts: 10 Number of axle splines: 27 or 29 Diameter of ring gear: 8.375" Number of ring gear bolts: 10 Pinion Shaft Diameter: 1.625" Pinion Splines : 27 Low Case Ratio : All the same case Axle shaft diameter: 27 spline 1.17" or 29 spline 1.25" Axle tube size: 3" (Dana 44) Number of cover bolts: 10 Number of axle splines: 30 Diameter of ring gear: 8.5" Number of ring gear bolts: 10 Pinion Shaft Diameter: 1.375" Pinion Splines : 26 Low Case Ratio : 3.92 Axle shaft diameter: 30 spline 1.31" Axle tube size: 2.75" On a side note a 14 bolt axle shaft necks down to 1.351" but can handle 44" tires...

The housing is stronger and the 27 spline axleshafts do hold up better then the D35 axleshafts do. You can swap some 29 spline axleshafts in later. Someone just had 29 spline shafts and a carrier for sale on NAXJA for $100.00 I think. ZJ rear discs are an easy swap, the bolt pattern is the same on the adapters, the center hole just needs to be opened up slightly. It's better to stick money into that 8.25 then into a D35 by far. You could upgrade to 29 spline alloys and a locker also. Then you would have stronger shafts and housing then a stock D44. The only drawback would be the C clip axleshafts, but they shouldn't be a problem. I ran a welded 27 spline 8.25 for 20,000 miles and never broke a shaft. :nuts:

Well the front flares and air dam are off. The body side stripes and side emblems are off too. The fiberglass cap is back on too. The passenger rear fender is cut to elimate the major rust and for raising the flares 4" higher. The rear part of the fender still needs to to be cut off at the lower bodyline. Then I can make some box side protectors. 8) I will post up some pics when it's light out. :brows: The front fenders will be cut for raising the flares about 4.5". The fender will also be cut off at the bottom of the sidemarker so I can swap the bumper on. :chillin: With about 5.5" of lift it should have 11" of clearance between the tires and the flares. Once the fender work is done the weld in rock rails can be built and installed. The box will also been to cut for them also. :cheers:

X 2 This would be the correct way IMO. If your isolators are old I would replace them also. They have a steel insert in them that can rust out.

I have seen 4 or 5 transfercases break like this and all were caused by running in 4wd part-time on pavement. None of them broke the chain. The case is the weak link when the driveline binds. My vote is it was in 4wd on pavement.

Check the tech section on http://www.madxj.com for a write-up that explains the slight mods you need to do to make them fit.

I did get something done today. First I swapped in some GE HO headlights, started swapping out the grill with the stainless trim for a black one but found out the header needs to be changed also. Then I swapped the stainless windshield trim for black trim and pulled the stainless drip rail trim. Later I also found out the vacuum switch for the axle disconnect is shot and keeps the axle engaged. Some time was also spent cleaning the shop so bigger jobs can start happening. I'm off to keep cleaning.

I'm going to keep like a truck for a while. I need to swap drivelines with my XJ's first. I'll just bend up some 16 gauge skins to protect the bed and hide the rust. I'm also going over to pick up the cap tonight. Maybe next summer or winter I'll truggy it. My wife is already pissed that I have three Jeeps so I need to swap parts and part the XJ's out ASAP.

Get me some details. It will probably help me decide. :brows:

Those look pretty good. What gauge steel are they? I do have a 3" sheetmetal brake so I could bend some like that too. I wish they made actual replacement panels. I would want to sand blast the underside and inside panels before replacing the panels. I the need inner wheelwells replaced too. I have enough sheetmetal, square and rectangular steel to truggy it. The tools and equipment to do either job I have. Decisions, decisions....

Thanks, I'm glad to be here. :cheers: I like the fact of the on going project forum. I was checking the box out closer. If I raise the rear flare to the bodyline I might get a year or so out before the box sides are junk. To bad no one makes replacement ones. I think I'm going to truggy it.

I have wheeled with both SWB & LWB rigs. The LWB ones seem to drag @$$ all the time. I personally don't like CJ-8's, but CJ-6's are cool. It almost sounded like you dragged backing out of my driveway the other day. If you plan on wheeling it you either need to lift it real high or shorten it some. The LWB ones have problems on steep climbs and when dropping of ledges. Just a thought.

I might... Or I might truggy it... You'll have to wait and see. :brows: A long box bobbed to have the same rear overhang as a short box would look sweet IMO. All the wheelbase as a LWB but the departure angle of a SWB.

Thanks for the link. I plan on keeping the box, but a truggy would be sweet too. I like the cage design. It is about what I have planned.

Just bob it or put a new panel on it. We know you want to bob it. :brows: You have enough MJ's to use to fix the damage when you bob it. :D No guts = No glory : 8)

It will be in a factory service manual. You'll need to check out the wiring diagrams. They have connector views, all the wire colors and show which wire is for what. I'm was a Chrysler master tech until '02 when I blew out my back. I did 90% of the electrical repair at my dealership. Trust me, the info is there. I have personally worked on over a couple dozen systems like your speakers came out of. If you explain what info you need most dealers will copy the page or two you will need. Otherwise there is probably a copy of the manual online somewhere if you look hard enough.

Transfercase drop is removed and the factory transfercase skid is back on. I removed the caster shims because caster is to high and the pinion angle is way low. The upper arms could be longer, I'll build some adjustable ones. The LCA's will get one end replaced with a RE flex joints. The die out problem was a bad connection, so thats fixed. :D After removing the transfercase drop the transmission no longer pops out of reverse. 8) I started planning the rockrails that will replace the rocker panels. I went and flexed out the rear suspension. I use all of the shock travel I have. I do need to lower the mounts and get longer shocks. I also found out the rear tires are very close to rubbing when flexed. I guess the 15"x7" rims with 4" of backspacing need to be replaced. Some 15"x8" rims with 3.5" of backspacing or 15" x7" rims with 3" of backspacing should do the trick Thats about it for today so far.

We're on the same page about the cage design.