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Hey those are almost identical to the one I bought a few months back. Image Not Found I'm still in tear down mode so they won't be installed for a while. For $25.00 I couldn't pass them up ;) . I'm only using the buckets and mounting them as low as possible. :brows: JeepcoMJ is getting the center section. :cheers:

That looks great. :chillin: You have one of the nicest MJ around.

Looks good. Any other pictures og the bob job?

My '89 header used nuts to hold on the emblem. A 1/4 drive flex socket worked well. ;) My' 94 and '95 XJ headers used double sided tape to hold the emblems on. Some heat from a heat gun and they came right off. Any tape that was left rolled right off with a little more heat. :brows: :cheers:

It's stainless just scuff it and paint it satin black. ;) :cheers:

For a parts doner try and find a 92 or newer 23 slpine output AW-4 and 23 spline input NP231 or a NP242 which has full time and part time gearing. A full-size Jeep NP208 transfercase is also a good choice also because of it's 23 spline input and 32 splined fixed yoke outputs(no need for a SYE). You might need a spacer/clocking ring because of the long input shaft length. This nice because you can clock the transfer case higher for increased ground clearance. 6)Decide how much lift you want and install it so #7 and 8 are the correct length 7)Front driveshaft 8)Rear driveshaft. I would reccomend a HD SYE and a CV type driveshaft. Not required, but nice to have are the following things I've done: Add in some wiring to the list and an auxiliary cooler. I also like a transmission temperature gauge and a switch to pick 1st gear or 2nd gear or let the computer control shifting. I add a second switch to lock or unlock the torque converter or let the transmission control it. Next comes tires and fender trimming/cutting. :brows: :cheers:

She would get over it. Wait until she walks into the garage when I cut the cab in half... Thats how she is going to find out my plan.... When its too late... I didn't tell her about my ticket either...

So if I snatched it up and lifted it,made it 4wd Overhaulin style that wouldn't be ok? You know that would be the only reason I would take it. Just help me on my rig and I'll do the same for you.

i wish death upon anyone who touches my MJ Due to the risk involved I can't touch it, I have to wear gloves so they will do the touching... ;)

So what size ball does the tow bar use? Wait I have both sizes, I'll be over later to pick up your rat infested MJ do to safety/health concerns. Hopefully you'll get it back if it can be made hazard free. If not I might be forced to detox it and recreate it as a '89

Kind of hard to do. More details like what automatic transmission he is planning on using would be nice. AW-4, TF999, TF904 or whichever one he has in mind. What engine he has makes a difference too. I think a built 340 with a wicked non-lockup TF999 that has a 2900rpm stall and a reverse valve body sounds like a sweet combo to swap in IMO. Wait thats my plan if I can pull it off.

Key word being "had".... WI will no longer test '96 and older vehicles after July 1st. 10-4 on that. sucks though, that i'm registering the new truck before then. Well the MJ and XJ both were tested this year and they both passed. I made sure I used a gas cap with a good seal and put some Sil-Glide on all the seals surfaces. The cap that was on the MJ would have failed for sure. I take a couple extra caps with just in case. You could also just get a temporary and renew it once. Then when you register it there won't be any more testing. :brows:

Full time is for all road conditions and part time position is for slippery surfaces only.... The 242 case has 4wd low range part time position not a full time one.... Here is something to think about... The XJ's 242's torque rating is 1486 lb/ft, the Dodge Duango/Dakota 242's torque rating is 2028 lb./ft and the H1 Humvee transfercase has a torque rating of 2340 lb/ft. In other words a 242 can be stronger then a 231HD. The Dodge 242 will bolt up since it has the same input splines and bolt pattern. It's a drivers side drop. I think it uses a larger 241 sized 32 sline output shaft and it has the wide chain. It might need a clocking spacer to bolt it up and that should be about it. I believe a 241 SYE will fit a 242.

Even the cargo light still should work great. It looks like it is just below the bar.

Looks good to me

Key word being "had".... WI will no longer test '96 and older vehicles after July 1st.

:needpics:

I'd rather have the rocks hit the driveshaft than the gas tank. on a similar question...will the driveshaft contact with the tank at full squat? I'm turning my tank around for more clearance because of the angle. If needed I'll space it up some. The skid is in case the driveshaft get crazy or some else happens.

If you slide over a rock just right it easily hit the stock tank.

I do like the paint on it. ;) Too bad you are so far away. :roll:

Thats the same thing I will be doing. I'm using an XJ skid plate thats plated with 1/8" steel and then putting the tank on top of it. I will build a cover over the tank. There will be dual remote mounted batterys in front of it and have storage on both sides.

I don't know is I should give the Wisconsin answer..... :D

When I wheel I don't like hitting my head when I look out the window to check my line. JeepcoMJ checked it out and liked it and he's about 6' at the most. I'm going to be using 2dr XJ doors(9" longer) so I won't have to lean forward either. :brows:

Call me and we can come up with a solution.