mjcanoe

Can I vote again? mjcanoe

It's a toyota, not an mj. run away. mjcanoe

CWLONGSHOT, Manifold studs are really bolts that have a splined shoulder that are pressed into flange. The head of the bolt/stud is "short", therefore next to impossible to get wrench on, cut it off if loose in flange or you can remove them w/punch & hammer. They are 3/8's course thread (14?), but any 3/8 bolt grade 5 or up will do the job. Use same grade nut w/anti-seize for replacement. mjcanoe

Mitch, Temp sensor unit/switch is located @ left rear of cylinder head. Drivers side lookiing @ it from the frt.,past the cyl. head bolt which on your's came with a ground strap. 1/2 " deep well socket works. Oil sensor unit/ switch is behind & down a little from o/f attached to a 90 degree fitting. As mentioned, sensor (for guage)is larger then sender(for lamp), but will fit if pointed same angle as OEM,can adjust , but may need thread sealer,teflon tape, etc. mjcanoe

Might /probably be a moot point now I've got an '86 which came w/ a 2.5l & auto 900 series trans. that I stuck 4.0 l/ax15/231 in & retained the original header panel. I used a rad.out of an early to mid 70's(?) Comet. Large 2 row unit, got elect. fan from from Summit & reversed the blade unit so it became a "pusher" as I had to install in frt. of rad. I installed low temp sensor in "T" @ t/stat for ground , But you could also install an override switch if needed. Almost 4 years now w/no problems. mjcanoe

JohnQ, You might be able to put all those connectors aside & just go to fuse panel, there are several "female" connector spots that you can plug in a "male' spade terminal to., usually labeled accs. some are battery voltage all times, some are key on voltage only. Use 12V test lamp . If you don't have one , found @ parts store for small $ or I can find it for you 4/24, I left my electrical book @ job today. Sorry. Black connector goes to emission timer for reminder to replace O2 sensor & check fuel evap system(epa), which by the way, can be be reset if anyone has OEM timer still on mj/xj/yj of that vintage. mjcanoe

JeepcoMJ, Those are great looking!!!! How?what did it take? Have you considered rotating handles 180? If you don't mind share the how & what w/us. mjcanoe

JohnQ, Based on the Renix PCM, you must have an '87-'90. If you can ger me the year & mtr., I'll check my manuals. The 2 small connectors that are orange & black are illumination sockets. Get back to me. mjcanoe

Regger, That is definately an external slave cyl., which according to OEM did not come on "93's, but we all know how that works. Get the slave & master if able, came as unit w/line. No need to bleed!! Can be purchased seperatley aftermarket, but have to bleed. Based on pics, I recommend replace t/out brg. & lube I/shaft. 2.5L is different bell hsg. then 4.0L. Also replace pilot brg. & lube new one. mjcanoe

Creekscout, Both D35 &D44 should have inner axle seal. If you look in axle tube, there will be a machined surface, like a "step" that the inner seal will stop @/or rest on. It's true some folks left them out, but the bearing was to be packed w/brg. grease & seals lightly lubed b4 install. Check axle shaft & you will see machined surface that is long enough to reach inner seal. mjcanoe

ridenlow12, Thad can be reached also @jeepcaratlanta@yahoo.com. He knows someone that may be interested.

ridenlow12, I know a fellow that might be interested. Name is Thad, could be reached @ 404-321-6495. Has an old ramcharger.

Oizarod115, mjeff87 is correct, the weep hole is hard to see. But trans & t/case have seperate seals as mentioned, tho I've seen a few times where previous mech. had istalled wrong direction which causes a greater leak. By the way my 242 t/c is a 21 spline. I'll have to check my spares for there count. Also for Pete M, years ago there was a TSB on frt. input shaft seals leaking because of seal failing due to fluid from slave cyl. deteriorating it. The ba10 trnny case was a split case w/the halfs being left & right, split @ slight angle w/top being @ 12:30 viewed from rear. mjcanoe

Oizarod & JeepcoMJ, Sorry guys, based on your profile & mine I guess I'm talking "Old School", a firewrench is slang foran oxy/acetyline torch unit. I grew up in N/E Ohio, worked there & learned my trade as a mecahnic, now I reckon i'm a technician. Anyway, we used torches to heat things up, made it easier to remove in the salt belt. Used them to weld one piece of metal to another, etc.,etc. You can even use them to seperate pieces of metal from another, even without a cutting tip. "old school" I have this equipment in my mobile shop if you like to see a demo. mjcanoe

JeepcoMJ, the factory set- up procedure did not use a specified torque for pinion nut, since it directed tech's to use set specs on pinion preload. You tighten pinion retaining nut to a certain "rolling torque' w/inch pound torque wrench. They used a preload spacer, which was a 1 time use. You may be suffering from the salt plague. Try to heat up nut with torch, medium heat@ 1st then use breaker bar. Yoke must be held in place firmly. mjcanoe

lostissues, you don't have anything to weld to based on pics. sometimes a bolt/stud will break off that allows you some purchase, but your pics don't show that. Drill out is probably the best way to go, as mentioned before. Man, I cut my teeth on north country vehicles, I don't envy you. No one down in south seems to know what "firewrench" is.

JeepcoMJ, I'f I remember correct & my trip to my mj confirmed, Caged nuts are in lower section of frame rail, So, as metioned b-4, the best thing is dead center w/ punch, then slowly drill w/plenty of lube/cutting oil w/either a small drill 1/8th, then move to larger. Bolt is 10mm x 1.5 if I recall. may not matter since your goal is to remove as much of old bolts as you can, then you can retap to your hearts content. If your centering is on the mark, you can use 3/8 or 10mm bolts. I prefer oem 10mm. Other crude option is to drill them out "full" then cut little slots in frame so you can add nuts on top of caged nuts, crude but sometimes needed, then recap cut holes w/plates. mjcanoe

JeepcoMJ, Don't need/want torque wrench for removal, long bar will do the job to remove, maybe some penetrating oil will help. Torque is for set up & is very important to do the set-up properly. mjcanoe

JohnQ, It is possible. As Pete said get donor mj/xj of same vintage then you will have to R&R dash assy. As mentioned by JeepcoMJ, easier to replace hvac as a unit.Make sure you get control unit as they are different. When the time comes to make it work, after component changes & add ons (condenser, brackets,etc), strongly recommend you replace rec./dryer w/ new or reman unit. Safeguard against trash,moisture, etc. from donor. Also retrofit for R-134A. I'm doing this myself this summer on my '86, tho a little more complicated since I swapped in 4.0 from oem 2.5. I've got to figure best way to route upper r-hose since I kept '86 frt. clip & swapped in a 3 row rad from early '70's Comet. Hope you can do it! mjcanoe

project88mj, Pete is on track. You can also use frt. coils out of a zj for abot 1" lift from boneyard. Spacer works well too. AAL on year, my personal choice would be a long leaf AAL as they give more flex, softer ride. As was mentioned, if you go w/used trim main leaf if you have tools/knowledge. Be sure to champher the edges if you go that route.Can even use a standard flat file. Make sure you replace spring stack bolts(no option), & strongly recommend relace U-bolts, then retorque after 200 miles. mjcanoe

chopper56, If not able to read tag on frt.diff., the gear ratio based on tooth count(ring/pinion) will still tell you what you nee to know. I know a lot of folks beef about D35, but outside of 3 sets of spider gears, they never hurt my feelings. Upgrading to @ least 4.10's would be ideal for @ most 32" tires. mjcanoe

UNL1MTD, same as xj of same design/year, '87-'95 I think. Check connector & if it's different snip wires to graft as needed. mjcanoe

UNL1MTD, Now that I think about it, not all units came w/ G/B lamp, tho wired for it. lostissues sent a very good pic of lamp/sw. combo which should help if you go to boneyard. mjcanoe

UNL1MTD, The bulb should be "194", we used to call them peanut bulbs. The connector plugs into the switch/lamp combo. When you look @ it from passenger seat, the connector would be inboard/ left side & the bulb would be outboard/right side w/bulb pointing into g/b. same as same vintage xj if you need one. mjcanoe

UNL1MTD, Pink & black wires, plugged into a lamp/switch combo that was sandwiched between g/b striker & g/b upper panel. When door shut latch would push in plunger & turn off lamp. mjcanoe