JeepcoMJ

It would have played out just fine.

You drive locked in any 4wd situation with a auto locker, so you argument still applies to driver error and has nothing to do with the transfer case.

You don't drive in dry pavement in part time. Period. I've got several broken in half np231s from customers to prove it. And welding a front end....you will break axle shafts and unions turning before you will ever break the transfercase. The hopping caused by welded spiders going around corners would make sure of that. Anyone welding a Dana 30 at all is a complete idiot. I have done it once, after everyone told me not to. End result....7 sets of axleshafts later, I pulled the spiders and put originals back in, after some torch work. an auto locker locks when there is fast variation between the left and right tires. That doesn't change the fact that the driveshaft spins. It will make the speed at which that front driveshaft spins more constant, which actually will make the parts in the transfercase work less, since the front and rear are more likely to remain similar in rotational speed. And again, you would blow up axleshafts before that stress would ever transfer to the transfercase. The only danger then would be in fast acceleration while turning, with slippery conditions, which allow you to break loose the rear tires. Not a common situation, except in the case of driver error (or idiocy), or very very slippery snowy conditions....which you should be in part time for anyways. So yet again we come back down to driver error.

The factory limited slip in my xj grabs HARD. I put minimal mopar trac loc additive in it because I wanted it to do just that. The result, it functions as a clutch type auto locker. I have yet to see any adverse effects from this. Removing differential function from either axle in no way effects the ability of the differential in the transfercase to differentiate speeds between the front and rear driveshafts. It can't, and won't. Mnkyboy, you seem to have a skewed grasp on just what a differential does. The only logical argument against running full time with a locker is that it could be considered akin to putting 35" tires on an open diff Dana 35. The question at that point is not IF it will brake, but HOW HARD do you have to push it to get it to do so. Daily driving shouldn't affect it, but doing a full time 360 drift in 6" of parking lot snow likely would not end very well with full time and auto lockers. That said, full time in an np242 is directly intended for daily duty and light off road duty. If it were otherwise, you wouldn't have part time to choose from. The argument really comes down to driver error rather than the ability of the parts you bring up to work together under the driving style they were intended for. Pat

You are mistaken.

Only 96 and newer

Set as background on my ipad2. Perfect fit

I will run one in all of my jeeps if I find sealed output ones.

I run a 242 in my stock height 99 2door 5 speed xj. 3.07 gears, 245/70r16. Just in the last couple weeks, I towed an xj and a kj liberty on a tow dolly without trailer brakes...in full time 4wd the whole way. The Cherokee was 45 miles away, interstate travel and a bunch of stop and go traffic to get to the interstate and from it. The liberty was a bit further, and weighs over 1000lbs more than the xj I used to tow it with. I didn't have a single issue with either one, and the full time was necessary to plant the power to the ground on dry pavement...it also helped for slowing down via downshifting. Was it a bit sketchy? Sure. I couldn't go over 65mph without a bit of trailer sway. But it did the job, and I could not have done it with an np231. I flat out love it for dd duty, tow duty, and envy thing else. Guess I don't see the "weak point "

Thhe body side part is welded to the body. I assume you just need the door side without the pin? Presumably for removable or half doors?

Man Pete, that is no fun. We almost ran out of wood to heat the shop. thank God for craigslist....got two face for $160, two truck loads...going to continue doing this, that will last over a month if we run it right. and $80/truck load is much better than free and busting your back. More than happy to pay someone else to do the work. now, to get the gas furnace in the shop converted to propane tanks so we can use it only to warm up in the morning and maintain at night....much cheaper also than having the gas turned on to the building.

Awesome!

Either way it cost over $140 mil for the parade and all. In a budget crisis, that should have been cancelled.

Yup.

What rear axle

Water based. Its the worst possible thing to use for rust prevention. Pb blaster or kroil are way better

Very nice. ditch those side steps. go with nerf bars if you need the step, but those side steps are 100% rust promotion...you cannot reasonably clean the salt/sand/grime from behind them in an area that gets snow. Love it tho. nice truck

There is an extra switch on the clutch pedal. it can still work, but I believe I have a5spd harness

I have all the parts necessary for a 4.0 auto.

If your seats are agate, they're 97+. if they're 97+, unless you put those seats on older mj brackets, then the factory plastics won't fit. even then, likely not. I believe I have a set of grey ones, though. I'll be diggin through the parts pile this week.

I have every idea how they work and they don't deploy proportionately to the speed you travel at. 10mph collision, airbag knocked me out, burned skin, bruised face. All I would have had without, it would be a strap bruise from the belt and that's it. You don't need pre bent lines either. Cheaper to bend your own

should be. if not, pull the bulb. will not affect how vehicle runs. that bulb spot has no bulb on my non-abs equipped 99. abs is about as useful to me as airbags....those I turned off via a scanner. no way in hell I want one going off at 80+mph in a 10mph collision...and if I'm going fast, I'm screwed either way. I've seen airbags put people's hands through windshields. worthless "safety" features.

I've owned many mjs, and have never seen a variance on bench seats other than headrests from 90 up

I refurb Meyer snow plow pumps for a living. E47, E50, E57, E58, E60, and all H series. If you've got old yellow snowplow pumps floating around, let me know. I buy them prices ranging from $75-$250 depending on condition. make more than you would scrapping them! -Pat

Then your 2wd isn't running right, or you've got a lead foot. should be able to pull 20 all day. We pull 23-24 out of our 88 4.0/5speed/MT with 3" lift, 31" tires, 3.55 gears, and 260k on the motor, 280k on trans, 160k on truck, axles unknown. everything installed in it is bone stock and certainly not in the best of condition.