JeepcoMJ

Key has to be in the Run position to tow in order for it to steer behind the RV. unless they put a cutout switch on the battery, it's entirely possible that the mileage is as they say. I do know that tow-behind kits like the one they have include a charging and grounding cable to keep the towed vehicle's battery charged up. They said it does not run, and I didn't get much info other than they started it, and it did a bunch of clattering, and shut down. presumably they took it to a mechanic, as they told me their mechanic said it could be simple, or cost half of what they're asking to do. They did not replace the timing belt I think I could get it for $3500. is that fair value? even if it's catastrophic damage?. I would not personally do the work...my dad has tons of diesel experience, so I would let him at least set it up and time it, then maybe I'd replace the broken parts...but I'd just as soon leave it up to him and learn while he shows me what's got to be done.

Finished the silver one. will post pics of that and the stripped out green one later today.

nvm. not a mod so I can't access your email. posting here. Hey Sam, Rob sent you an email with link to diesel liberty earlier. I talked to the owner, no idea what's wrong with it. I'm wondering what the typical issues with the diesels are, what my areas of concern should be, what I should be looking at mechanically. Since I've started toying with liberties (check out my KJ build thread if you haven't already), I've decided to get one myself, and sell the xj. I'd prefer a diesel obviously, and that one's in the right ball park as I can get it cheaper than that, or they would concider straight up trade for my stock limited liberty 4x4 3.7l to tow behind their motorhome, as they already have the brackets for it to do this. Any insight would be great. A diesel liberty is right up my alley. Thanks, Pat

no dice. still won't let me send them to you. sending email instead.

Sam, Can you clear your pm box? I have some diesel ???s for you.

clicking the browse button and it doesn't do anything? I've had this problem for 2 days. Solution sucks. do NOT select the album you want to upload to. just click "upload", then "browse" and select files. then once uploaded, manually move them to the album you wish to move them to.

vault lock or something of that nature.

K. I will have to have the dealer program the keys in the vehicle then. If it is going to have skim, I'm just gonna put the original computers back in it and call it good. The liberty I picked up today also needs this done then, and I have two spare RKE remotes so was going to have one programmed to each liberty so the one I'm keeping has 3 and the one I'm selling has 2

? for you....what all is left to get her driveable? Is there a member in your area that could store it while you get $$$ for the parts to finish it to driving, then you fly back out, have a meet and greet/pow wow, and drive it cross country back home, along routes where you can get help from members if the need arises. I would happily help you out if you were local to me.

The Limited is the vehicle that had SKIM, and has been fixed. The Renegade was the donor. I put the engine, trans, transfercase, engine harness, front suspension, rear suspension, both axles, and the ECM, TCM, BCM from the Renegade into the Limited. This should mean that the SKIM doesn't work anymore. I DID leave the SKIM hooked up, key in the ignition but not turned on, with the battery hooked up. The only computer I know of that I haven't swapped is the one directly in front of the center console under the dash mounted to the floor, which I imagine is the airbag control module.

Went and bought another one today. Price too good to resist. '02 limited 2wd from texas. No motor or trans. Leather, Sunroof, power everything, heated seats, cruise, etc. Good set of rims, crap tires. Going to convert it to 4x4, swap the motor and everything from the tboned renegade in, and sell it. Class 3 nice leather Front Sunroof empty engine bay 2x4 k-member

They aren't that cheap for a KJ.

I do not want it. I do not want $50+ keys. I only have one. I refuse to pay a dealership to set up the rest. One of the jeeps didn't have it. So I'm asking where that info is stored so that I can swap whatever needs to be swapped so that I can make it work without that SKIM garbage. No one is going to try and steal it, and if they do, it has full coverage....not a problem. What I don't want is expensive keys since they stay on my hip, and I've melted more than one key as a result of this while working. That's not going to change, I feel trapped when I don't have my keys.

The renegade never had it, period. just the limited. which is what's got me confused.

What is a SKIM? there is the ECU on driver's side of engine bay. I assume the computer on the passenger side of the engine bay is the TCU? the BCM is part of the fuse box in the dash. What is the SKIM? the part on the column?

Well it runs great with either computer, as long as the key sensor is hooked up.

Sam, do you by any chance know where the Security Key Interlock System information gets stored? The silver limited had it, the renegade didn't. I put the ECU, TCU, BCM from the renegade in it, but didn't disable it. I disconnected the sensor on the column, as the renegade was, and it wouldn't run. I can't think of anyplace else that info would get stored.

I have all the donor stuff to be sure. Only things I think would be missing are the nutcerts for the shifter handle for tcase....really there shouldn't be anything else from my experience that's an issue. Thanks Sam!

So in the process of building one liberty to replace the one my bro rolled a couple years back, we ended up with another tboned renegade that runs and drives great. Just found a 2wd shell, no engine, trans, exhaust for a good deal. Would it be safe to assume that they are, like XJ's and MJ's, cross compatible if you have all of the appropriate parts to do the swap? I should be able to tell once I get there, but if it's not possible, then it's not worth my time to look...

before filing the edge and color matching the cut edge.

I will post pics in the morning, but today we; finished bolting up everything in the front suspension and front clip finished modifying the pinch welds in the front wheel well. I did attempt to keep the inner fenders in one piece by folding and plastic welding the area where the pinch welds were. the 32" tires still rubbed while turning, so I ended up cleanly cutting that area out of the inner fender completely, but retaining most of it. Bedlined that area and called it good. Eventually I will do something nicer, but the fact that there was 1/4" too much material there made it more worth my time to go this route. installed front tow hooks installed gas tank skid plate installed transfercase skid plate. couldn't get nutcerts big enough for the body side, so I made a nut strip to slide into the frame rail instead. Tomorrow we just have to finish up fluid changes, then put the tboned renegade back together to move it outside so this one can see daylight for the first time in a couple weeks. and a bath.

Today we; installed the rear end and lift swapped the yoke on the rear end out for one without a broken ear pulled the brand new (flash rusted slightly from sitting) brakes from the tboned one and put them on the limited. drilled and slotted front rotors, premium rears. few hundred bucks worth of brake parts that I wasn't expecting to have. Old brakes were almost new as well, but I can't resist high quality. bled rear brakes pulled front bumper again, inner fender, fender flares so I can do the mods necessary to clear the tires without rubbing oil change installed driveshafts confirmed detroit full carrier locker, 4.10 gears in the rear axle, new fluid in it pics. didn't bother scuffing or cleaning the light rust off the discs, they will wear in in under 10 miles inner fender, fender flare removed pinch weld beat in so it's out of the way. currently has new paint (color match of course) drying on it after i took the pic. that's a bit more room

Thanks. the other light bar is missing parts of the actual main cover itself. I do not have them, or I would plastic weld it together, sand it, and paint it. The farthest right (passenger) light has a crack on the outside at the mount, but does still work. I imagine it would fog up though in wet conditions.

Well, haven't updated this for a couple days. As it stands, we have not got much left to do. We finished the interior, just need to detail it. finished routing the roof light wire to it's proper location in a non-intrusive manor, picked up the other liberty, and got the rear axle and lift (OME) out of the old totalled Renegade. Pulling the rear end took me 20 minutes start to finish. I got my 10mm impact socket on 3/8" cornwell gun, 21mm and 15mm impact sockets on 1/2" cornwell gun, air, 21mm wrench, 12mm brake line wrench, interior clip removal tool for the wiring on the upper link, and buzzed it all out. hardest part was lining up the jack, and disassembling the rear brakes to disconnect the e-brake cables. What's left to do is remove the A pillar trim, sun visors, front and rear tow hooks, and brand spanking new front (drilled slotted rotors, nice pads) and rear (full drums, etc.) brakes off of the renegade we just picked up, and put them on the silver one. I also removed the rear end and suspension from the silver one, so we need to put the "new" one with lift in the rear, re-bleed the brakes, drain trans, add drain plug to drain pan, do an all over fluid replacement/change, and then do a final detail on the silver one. Then it's driveable. pics. one has grown to three. FML Carpet in Seats in. I did try to do some restoration, and it does look better, but that is where my area of expertise ends. cargo area cover as well completed and installed door panels. Swapping the black handles and bezels out for the brushed ones really was very straight forward

roger, don't be an idiot. you weren't there. and I wasn't even in 4wd. and that was once. 50 point turn? that's just foolish. welded diffs are the worst idea ever on a front end. I learned from that. wouldn't even put an auto-locker in one. steer axles need selectable lockers, plain and simple, when/if you can afford it. Will his d30 last? yup. I've seen Wade wheel. he knows how to pick a line. is something going to break if only on simple principle of the matter? eventually.