JeepcoMJ

me either actually. so far I've only gotten info from 3 people. 89, even you are guilty of that :oops:

haha, man, I don't buy hardly anything new. so the answer is the junkyard...

yeah holy crap pete, that was a ton of them!

thanks guys. I'm actually gonna do the same thing I did for the lowers I think, but not this month. that will happen by the end of august...it won't be offroaded any except at the badlands, and I don't intend to be the flex king there...

yea, the uppers were made out of two sets of uppers (that way there's only one stress point), then had a piece of angle iron about half their length (8" or so) centered in them and welded to the bottom/inside of them. I figure it should be OK but I'm not sure about the outer ends. I know wade/89eliminator lengthened his and hasn't had much, if any problems

front shocks are in. rough country 6.5" shocks. price was $79 from the jeep dealer in burlington here. got the perches for the rear from them as well for $22. SOA in plans for friday/saturday morning. also made my extensions for the front brake lines, so all I have to do is take them apart, add these in there, and put them back together then make the mounting tabs for them. the entire suspension will be done by sunday, and the rockers done by tuesday. I'm dragging my feet on the rockers because I hate body work.

I made the uppers and lowers for my 89 comanche. I have been told (by naxja members so I don't trust them) that the uppers will shear in front of my reinforcements, and the lowers are not "sturdy enough". I personally feel different about the lowers, but the uppers DO give me concern... opinions? facts would be good too... I'm thinking perhaps that the uppers are too short as well... also thinking that these uppers will only be temporary and that I will be building my own out of a tubular system with a heim at one end (whatever joint is best for flex and performance. i know a heim isn't it, but you get the concept).

I have no idea what you just said

haha, and I haven't finished the 89... it needs the rear lifted still and brake lines extended. luckily, I got the front shocks today and installed them (from rough country), and got my spring perches too. $113 all told but I guess it's worth it. gonna lift the rear on friday and extend the brake lines then too.

I'm happy now

brake line extension is something I feel hasn't been discussed. I don't have any money to spend really, so I'm buying the necessities for the lift and thats it. those include coil springs, trackbar, leaf spring perches for the rear, and front shocks. so for the rear brake line, I have been looking at how it is set up. and also how my prop valve is not intact, but the mount for it is. anywho, I am planning on simply dropping the frame-side of the brake line to the end of the prop valve mount, and extending the metal brake line to accomodate. this will be temporary (as in, less than a year), and I'm 95% sure that it will serve my purposes and allow me to get full articulation at little (zero) cost. the front...well, I straightened the metal brake line and at the lift that I have, it's cutting it very close to non-functional if I articulate AND turn at the same time. so the plan is to extend the front metal brake lines by about 2.5" with some drop brackets, this will allow for full articulation, they won't be rubbed by the tires or hit by the control arms. highlite, extend metal brake lines to all 3 rubber lines, = functional and cheap if you have the capacity to remove old lines. any opinions? remember, my budget is spent if I intend to go to attica on the 10th. I'm cutting it close as is, and sadly I may have money problems to go down there...

thanks, not sure if the steering wheel will stay or not. it came off an old 80's camaro at the yard. the one downfall to the tarp is that IF it gets water underneath it, it holds it in. but if you set it up right, it won't.

lol, I've done it a few times (after replacing cv shafts on the v-dubs, and even on the 3800 and my bro's truck etc.) and had great success. its fairly straightforward to do. tho I'm not gonna explain it right now

some more pics of it posing with the rear end lifted (via jack to reciever hitch) to get an idea of actual ride height. and I fixed that damn fog light relay...fricking thing was bad and would shock the $#!& outta ya if you touched the truck while standing. I'm just happy it didn't fry anything... painted the driver's side black. just gotta do both cab corners now. did the floors up, used rubbercoat after applying a rust conversion/preventative and letting it dry. then when dry, I always apply a tarp before putting the carpet in. I find that this ensures that no water will be seeping through to the metal (especially in carpeted floors) it will make it last that much longer. then got the whole interior in... it needs cleaned. here's my pimptastic original headliner, 18 years and going strong... and here's what it looks like behind the seat...in case you didn't know or something..

wtf

what is this about GOING to get an alignment? hehe, I'm doing it myself. well, this month I am as it won't be on the road until mid-august (will be ready for badlands tho)

what a 'tard. good job!@

so maybe leave it but do a front end alignment? I'm NOT putting a drop pitman arm on this thing

ran over this on naxja. all I gotta say is this guy's got nads. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=924769 and that is true body work at it's best [intentions]. guy needs to learn how to use a plasma cutter tho... this is in tech to discuss the mind-boggling mechanics of squaring a unibody framerail with a motor still in the vehicle.

heh, why would I need to move them? I'll just get rid of them! j/k

passenger side is under the knucke on this one. drivers side is under as well :hmm: so idk....

great! I will pick some up tomorrow and then proceed to flip it on monday or tuesday. just gonna use the stock system for now as I don't have much $$$ and I already owe the guy at the junkyard I go to so I don't wanna jack him around... I'll reinforce the linkages tho with angle iron I think

yeah, hence I said 5.5" of lift approx.

:nuts: 23.5-17=6.5 ;) lol, I meant to write 18 instead of 17.... I'm blond

so, what would need to be done to get the zj steering arms in? would they just bolt into the comanche? my understanding is it is a draglink/tierod flip conversion and is a good idea. but what about the tapered hole that the ends are supposed fo fit into? I was thinking that a comanche one would just be flip-able. you'd have to cut the passenger side, rotate 180*, reweld with reinforcement, and simply flip the other end over and readjust your alignment. would that be adviseable?