JeepcoMJ

....the way I'm going to fix the 3800 is a bit unconventional, but was suggested to me by a body man. you know how a jack and hi-lift work obviosly. it was suggested that I use a small floor jack, bottle jack, whatever I can fit, and simply slide it up inside (there's approx. 3" of room where the crease on my truck is) and jack. now, most jacks aren't that small, but there are plenty of alternatives that are similar. something like that would be best IMO

yea just different views.

lookin good tim! hey, I'd like to come pick some things up this weekend...

hmm...it could end up being a 4 door now, there would be less seams to blend that way...and I really could do the suicide door on one side (or both depending on roll cage etc. and I really have no idea when this one will be built...I'm building my dad's diesel first, as I now have the body for it.

by measuring on my dad's (well, eyeing it up.... :roll: ), I figure I can get an extra 2 feet out of it, especially since I'm going to be either building a custom fuel tank for below the cab, or I'll be building one to fit between the A posts of the rollbar. after all, I do plan on having a 4.5' bed on it.

http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos- ... 9_5499.jpg best one I got at the moment...I'll take one tomorrow.

yeah everything works. idk about the air valve tho..

:D I'm surprised with how nice it really is. and excited to get it home...I just hope they don't dent it up any more than it is when they load it

hmm... it could have a vac. leak, I know there's probably one or two due to cracked hoses. perhaps it works better at higher rev. because the motor creates more vacuum, so it finally gets some in there. I'll look it over. the rad is close to brand new, t-stat is good, all hoses are good too.

that sensor controls fuel-air mixture based on the temp of your engine, so if you disconnected it its running rich as hell since it automatically assumes its -40 and richens up the fuel-air as much as possible. ;) good thing he parted it out then ;)

provided I have transportation for it on saturday, I'm picking this up from a junkyard around here. it's rust free, the box has all of 3 dents in it, rockers and cab are solid. the doors are shot, fenders are shot, front clip is shot, bumpers are shot, and it's a 4 cyl 2wd. anyways, I can't beat the price...for the condition. this will be stripped, and everything but the frame, cab, and box will be tossed. complete resto of the body, and then we gut my dad's 86 renault diesel and drop all the parts from it in this body. ta-da. new jeep. even a brand new renault diesel engine (yay finding good deals) will be installed. whatcha think? this is a gift to my dad...who is sure to chime in about spending my money wisely yada-yada but he helped me build the 3800 and has dealt with all my crap, it's time he starts driving a nice restored vehicle too.

my 2.5 4 cylinder 86 xj is running pretty good...there's just one problem with it. the heater doesn't work too well. everything's functional electronically etc., but the heat comes out best when it's at 2700-ish rpm. at idle it puts out cold. now, the head is fine, the head gasket is fine. it's actually bled just fine too. so I'm wondering what the deal is? gunked up heater core? any ideas?

maybe, just maybe, I will be able to finally make one of these trips come spring. this one isn't gonna happen...I don't have the ability to go.

Badger is doing a variation of that. and yeah, I thought of it. problem is that cherokee xj and comanche mj frame rails are not even close to being a match from about the foot area on back...you can't line them up.

yes, please do. this project will be awhile but it will be fun

yep, that's the plan I'll just pay the $$$ for a new RHD dash though...they're $80 new and a junkyard would want more than that.

:D imagine that...with the cab vents intact and the back of the bed still hanging out a bit more.

beaterjeep has gotten to name it...project "X-Cab"

I can buy a factory new RHD dash for like $79 or so. that's how JBhill got his. hmm good idea. then I could be like a garbage truck and drive from either side! :P

shoulda specified...I'd be using a spare comanche cab to accomplish this...so there would be one seam, and the roofline wouldn't be [much of] a problem :D I've been commenting on that xj...and yes, I'd do something similar. I think I have a good 20" to spare on the rear side in front of the wheel well too though if I'm basing it off of the longbed chassis. 2 door xj doors will most def. be what I use, and rear seats from a dodge dakota would go in (they fold up and have storage). as for the glovebox, I'd probably do one on the passenger side but it would be sort of similar in design to the newer xj one (tall, and deeper than either would be normally). as for the cb depth and such, I think that if I'm making the custom center console to run up and cover that seem anyways, I can extend it away from the dash a bit...and give myself whatever space I want to do anything there. for the shifter, think the new compass how the shifter is more on the dash than in the center console. it's angled a bit too, more mounted with the actual shifter stick almost horizontal. then a arcade style shifter (like from a racing game from the arcades) would be near the stock spot. with the manual shift automatic system, you put the stock shifer in Drive, and you control up and down-shift between gears. you have to shift the stock shifter into reverse though in order to go backwards. haven't photochopped it really....don't have photoshop lol.

here's the next build for me. it all starts with a longbed comanche, and a shortbox. then, cut the back of the comanche cab off (after tossing the longbed), and extend it back about 2 feet. use 2 door cherokee doors, and the rear vent windows from a 2 door xj as your rear windows, in front of the cab vents. so that makes a 2 door extended comanche cab and chassis. then I'd bob the front of the shortbed, so it would be 5 feet long or so...and center it on the wheels. couple that with a high output 4.0, aw4 and np242 case, a hp front dana 30 non-disco, and rear dana 44. trussed on both. 5.5" of lift with 33x9.50's with some fender trimming and stock raised fenders compliments of TNT. the interior would be....the most interesting part to say the least. of course it will have a full cage, that's necessity with this kind of custom job. the dash would be built from two stock dashes in matching color. basically think like you're in the driver's seat, how the dash on the left side of the dash looks. I'd use two driver's side portions of the dash to extend it all to the same height and look, all the way across. so no more glovebox. to do the dash, you'd cut off the stock dash right where the radio is, then cut another one off right where your indicator lights are, and meld the two together. next thing is an anodized black (or painted, whichever) aluminum diamond plate center console. this console will have the proportions (roughly) of the stock full lenght console, BUT it will run up the face of the dash in the radio section, and run up over the top of the dash to cover the seem between the two combination dashes. the heater controls would be here, mounted slightly lower, with a CB installed, CD player, and DVD deck (remote screens installed elsewhere). below the heater controls and vent, the stock aw4 shifter will be located not flat on the tranny tunnel, but at a 55 degree angle slightly forward of where it is normally. then about 2" back from where the stock one would be, an arcade style 4 speed electronic shifter will be installed. this will allow for BrettM's manual-auto shift system to be installed, and this shifter will control 1,2,3, and overdrive. the t/c lockout switch and the manual shift engage/disengage switch will be next to the stock shifter in the non-stock location. will not be running interior A and B-pillar trim, as the rollbar will be there hugging as close to those pillars as possible. I'd make panels from a different material and cover them with some sort of carpeting material that matches the interior color (black of course...well maybe tan). split rear window is a must, it will have a rollbar in the rear with mounting points welded to the frame, and bolted through the bed which will also account for the front bed mount points. these will tie into rock rails (yes, I'll be keeping the stock rockers too). thoughts? this would be quite the project....

anyone have a pic of a setup running an alternator in that location and one in stock location? I"m thinking duals...

still not 100% sure...it's now just dependent on money, but I'm 95% sure that I"m going. wade we need to talk about going (1:00 I think right?) and can you shoot me the link for the address to the badlands campground?...I need it. -Pat

oh really? I'm actually in the works for 3...2 parts ones, one 2wd 4.0 repairable one in need of doors and front right side. 2 are for my dad to repair the diesel, and one would be for my next project...which will be in the threads here soon. anyways, sweet rig here, in case I didn't stress it enough. depending on how close you are, I'd help out with acquiring 4wd stuff.

rock on man. next thing I think...get a driveshaft measurement from someone else (hint here, someone please tell us what your swb 4 cylinder 5 speed 4wd rear driveshaft length is from your comanche). install tranny and build some 2" lift shackles for the rear as a temporary lift measure. looking great though. lose that thingy on the front...but don't break it, my old man could use one :P