JeepcoMJ

it works great on my 500,000 mile 12 passenger dodge van, and on the 89 comanche it worked great too. it's nice to have for long trips.

very helpful thank you!!

truth be told I could probably get him to machine me a 21 spline shaft for it for less than $100 if I had to.

yep aluminum case. spacer's not a problem, I can make one at burlington machine and tool (or have the owner make me one) I'll be keeping it and finding an ax15 to mate to it I know where a dodge dakota 2wd ax15 4 cyl is for cheap so I can get that bellhousing and find an ax15 elsewhere, put this on it, and that will instantly boost my drivetrain capability. this has become a race to parts accumulation :D

who just got a good buy? a-this guy! :brows:

it's a 1981 np208 from a fullsize wagoneer...it's fixed yoke. :D

np208 what's the value? I got one for $200 today cause I know it's worth more. haven't picked it up yet, but what's the spline count, and what the spline count of an ax5 is? it's out of an 81 fullsize. yes, it is driver's side drop. oh, and those of you who don't know...the np208 is a fixed yoke transfer-case. i.e. you don't need a slip-yoke eliminator for it. thinking of putting it in my xj...and plans for another 3800 conversion are now under way.

the cruise in my 86 xj doesn't work...I need to figure out why. with a test light I found that everything on the cruise switch is working correctly...so that leaves me with either a issue with the brake or clutch disengage switch (haven't checked yet), the cruise servo itself, or simply needing to adjust my low speed cutout switch. I checked vacuum and that's all working correctly. anyone know which way is which on the crusie computer to adjust it? it just says which adjuster does what...not which way to turn it. help is much appreciated...I drive 45 min. each way daily right now and I'm lazy lol.

...you'd have to run some sort of aftermarket trailer tail lights on a setup like that though. I'd run a set of squares with LED's equipped with reverse lights. something like these lights, but most definitely not by Grote (Grote is crappy quality IMO) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GROTE-SU ... enameZWDVW bad thing is that the stock tail gate would look kind of out of place. if you added some sheet metal to it to square it off and give it an upper lip it would work pretty well.

yep. I think I'll do it with my spare shortbed...

I had a stepside idea for a comanche bed that would work really well you would keep the top rail, remove the sides but leave enough to curl the outside edge of the top rail around (so you don't cut yourself). so cut off the bad sides. THEN you'd cut off the inner well and inner bedside at the seem. put in a flat panel at that seam, and use some 2 foot-ish sections of angle iron run vertically to reinforce it. then add a set of willy's flat fenders or something of the like. that would give you an m715 bedside look with square fenders instead of round, and you could add some gerry can supports and shovel mounts on the sides. I even drew this out on my 86 parts truck...then I junked the truck...

I run the dayton timberlin A/T's and have been nothing but pleased with them...I'm sure you'll be the same.

haven't seen that but a cummins 4BT has been done.

get a cherokee that's 4 wheel drive for cheap. make sure it's the same 5 speed trans and same engine, similar year. then you just swap in the tranny with transfer case, front axle plus driveshaft, shifter linkages, and you have your rear driveshaft shortened. no, you can't mount a transfer case to your 2wd trans. the output shaft is different. your 5 speed is a peugot f speed trans just so you know. Ba10/5

I'm not sure where to get replacement stuff for trucks, i would try A-1 driveshaft out of Milwaukee. they should be in the phone book, if not let me know. K. oh, Wade, reading your sig...nice on the mpg. I got 23mpg with the xj on premium...19 on regular. that's all highway but it don't help that I have to run 2800rpm to go 55mph. if I run 45mph all the way, I can get 22mpg on regular :brows: can't wait to lift the 3800 now...def. goin with a TNT longarm, your 4.5" rear springs probably, and 5.5" front lift. also have 4.10 dana 30 front axle I'm building, and will be picking up my ford 8.8 rear in the next couple weeks...going to build all the axles and set them to the side, then save up for the lift.

where would I get the boots from? I found a "replacement set" on ebay but it has a cut in the side to slip on easily...I don't want that...and it's $25 for one that's too much.

well they're good to keep layin around in case I bust somethin on the trail then...I won't expect them to get me far on the trail, but they will get me home.

the only problem I see is that you've spent money on a 2.8 motor...why not consider an upgrade?

I got a set of CV axleshafts from TNT that I want to keep around as my offroad spares (yeah yeah...) what's the deficiency of the CV axleshaft? I've been told they perform great with no wheel hop etc. and am just doing followup research. next...can you get new CV boots for them? both of these are torn...

wow, that's a good deal man. I could actually afford payments on that.... but not full coverage insurance.

good choice, how much did ya pay for it? I'm thinking I'd like a diesel libby sometime...

it's not a chain...more like a spiral... yep, there's a rubber track that it's stored in. bolts are 7/16". I use them with a flathead on one side and flange nuts on the other, it looks less halfass. stainless or galvanized..it does get moist in there. if you end up needing a track I probably have a couple

1. yes, I've drilled them frequently. it's easy...just vacuum the inside of the door out afterwards. 2. you just put bolts in to replace the rivets...easy. don't tac them onto the regulator, you can fit your hand in there pretty easily. 3. no I haven't seen the plastec part sold...you're on your own, I just heat the edges with a heat gun (hair dryer works too) and peal it back. still stick afterwards so you don't even have to glue it back on...

still got the connector laying around? if ya do, then hook up the switches in the order of the colored ends you have left on the connector. all basic rocker switches have the same setup...power in the bottom, output is the middle, ground (for the switch's light) is the top. figure which one supplies power, and which one sends power. then which one is the ground.

actually it's better to run in power mode....it gets better mpg and power that way. anyways, why on earth did you try to wire a new switch in? I have probably 20 stock switches laying around for any function you'd need in an xj or mj... you probably blew a fuse by accidently grounding out the power source to it. check your fuse box(es if you have a control center in your engine compartment), and replace said fuse.