JeepcoMJ

Not necessarily, the problem is, if he uses the 99+ intake manifold he's going to have to match a newer (96+) power steering pump with it. The older OBD-I sensors will need to be used in the 99+ manifold as well. I would highly suggest going that route, it's good for a few hp anyway. Also to what Eagle said, most 99s still use the dizzy, I have a 99 XJ that I bought just because of that since I don't like the 00-01s that use coil packs. true. i forgot that scorpio_vette did this on his wife's early TJ. the 00-01's have a sensor in place of the dizzy...a distributor bolts directly in to the hole from what I've been able to gather on my motor.

aluminum is metal. so look for one from 91 on up...they are ALL aluminum valve covers

you need to put EVERYTHING from the 91 motor on to that motor. including the intake manifold. it WILL bolt up. i've got a 2001 4.0 sitting in my barn out of a wrangler, and compared to a renix all mounting was the same.

i didn't even know you could adjust the TPS on these things (the only 4.0's i've worked on are H.O's, and stripping down parts trucks...this is the first time I've DD'd a 4.0) how to?

87 comanche is idling low...it's a 4.0 automatic. swapped throttle bodies twice, and CPS. what could it be? it's idling at around 350 RPM

Jack it up. Put jack stands under the axle. Pull the tires. Open the diff cover and drain the oil. Remove C-clips. Remove brake drums. Remove axle shafts. Install locker. that's correct...for a lunchbox type locker. you're NOT doing a locker on a dana 35 are you? that $200 for the locker is better spent buying a dana 44 then upgrading to a locker at a later date. if it's any other type of locker...i think it's beyond your skill range (hell, it's beyond my skill range and i just monster garaged an MJ together in a week)

I've broken 4 of them now... all on one truck (free replacements/didn't have to redo brakes) either spitting ring teath, destroying spider gears, wrecked pinions, spun diff on tubes. that's with a camaro v6 3800 in my 86 comanche...the axles just aren't strong. i've been through just as many transmissions with that motor though (ax5's are NOT meant for power...)

vacuum

some necessary repairs to be done tomorrow... --replace alternator (current one MELTED internally on the way home... :roll: :eek: ), check/replace starter cables if necessary. --RADIO!!!!!!! --replace MAP sensor --install more of the interior --perhaps make the manual disconnect for the axle --install toolbox from the 3800, or pick up a free alluminum one i know of

how much more effort is it gonna take to hook up vacuum lines? drill and tap, install fitting, and hook up. anyways, you've got a sender and a return line there...you absolutely have to have those. the two vacuum lines are probably a good idea, but not sure if necessary

the only sensible route is to put a 91+ 4 cylinder valve cover on it...it is aluminum and cleans up nicely, and an easy install. put one on my ol' 86 xj and it worked nicely/turned out good. you'll need the 91+ bolts as well (or just new ones) as the older ones have a centering spot on them and the new ones don't. Image Not Found cleaned up they also look very nice. if yours is cracked, it' would leak worse after messing with it...some tabs1 probably broke off of it or cracked more from torquing on the bolts

... it's been said, but not by me, that it's not strong enough. 89eliminator is correct.

it's totalled. don't even call your insurance. call the other person's and get on their case. take it to a price adjuster, pay the $150-$200 to get a fair market estimate on your specific truck less damage as-is. it should be near $4500 (from the looks of it) especially if you can produce reciepts. as for the body...the box isn't all that bad. it can be fixed. the cab corner can also be fixed door should be replaced as that's cheaper. the frame...it needs to be checked on a frame machine to see if it's square. i hope so. best bet, get the $$$ and leave it alone. wheel it responsibly and now you don't have to kill anything when it gets scratched/dented.

really? i was kinda thinking of leaving it there...;) no idea what to do about it except paint the door...which means painting the rest of the truck if i'm already going through the trouble.

you know, maybe it's just me, but you seem very needy. you seem like you think you need everyone's approval ot make yourself feel better. that kinda rubs me wrong...no offense. the answer is yes. and then I would shake my head and feel bad for the non-matching paint scheme and worse for the person who's driving it. i'm trying to be constructive for you... number one rule. you don't need our approval. if you're out to get people to stare at you, maybe mature a bit and take a break, then come back. then, paint it ALL to match. i have no problem with a completely purple comanche. matter of fact, a friend of mine painted a comanche pink for his daughter...and while it's a real shame that a 17 year old ditzy girl who's totaled 3 cars has a real nice 91 comanche with factory roll bar, i can deal with the paint.

K. thanks. that's my only concern...A/C isn't necessary here, and i'm doing OBA anyways soo yea...

i think the light bar was kind of pointless, but it looks just fine. the rear bumper is too weak...factory mounts won't do it any good, and that tow assembly looks not-so-good and like it doesn't have much (if any) towing capacity. it should also be hidden behind the tube instead. and i don't know why you thought of that paint...but none of it goes together IMHO. good on you for doing what you want, but I'd really like to see the rest of the truck purple, or put normal colored flares back on it. all i ask is that you make it match.

10-4 that's an easy one. i was just unsure because i put the 94 box in, which has a different sensor on it midway up the box...i assume it's an a/c sensor to prevent icing. fixing the resistor problem right away in the AM. hopefully the vacuum issue is easy too.

lol. which side is the front? is it the thing on the bottom behind the switch panel? or is it up kinda behind the knee-board? or on the actual front-front of the box?

i put a 94/95 xj heaterbox (with AC but AC not hooked up) in my 87 comanche because the 87's was full of mouse crap and that smell never comes out. anyways, i put the 87 fan in so it had the right connector...it works. but, only one speed. then the other thing is that none of the vacuum assembly works either...only have on and off, and the only speed that works is 3. it's all coming out of the defrosters. any pointers? I hate vacuum stuff and kinda need advice. thanks, Pat

SCARY!!! :eek: driving, lost all engine power. :mad: cranked and cranked then finally popped the hood, reached to the ballast resistor, a wire fell off :eek: :roll: reconnected, and all is well. slight bottom end knock...oil change will reveal what 10 years of sitting does to a motor. not too concerned...i've got 4.0's that can replace it. and, no vibrations until 60...but they're from the front left so it's an alignment issue since everything else is pretty much new, or good.

it's alive! runs/drives fine, no real issues right now except i need a new rear pinion..the threads on it were boogered up and i just want piece of mind. need to flush coolant, and do another oil change.

not for very long... oh, reeeaaalllly :popcorn: well, with the rears being equal height and my control arms jutting the axle forward 1", i figure that when I set the control arms proper and add a second set of rubber isolators, we'll be even. of course, i'm thinking of adding 4wd rear springs with 1" shackle in the rear and a 2" spacer kit up front with the longarms... :eek:

not for very long...

all that is left is to install an xj proportioning valve and bleed the brakes, and install the rear driveshaft, then grease all of the joints that will be done tomorrow night. rear driveshaft interior...need to finish installing it, but at the moment it's done enough to drive..seatbelts in and seats and dash. i need to put a radio in it.. sporting the 3800's front bumper for now 89eliminator came over and we did some minor comparison shots driveshaft angle is set 2 degrees below in-line with the slip portion of the rear driveshaft, so that when i step on the gas and it torques up, it will run at the proper angle.