JeepcoMJ

If you guys come to a deal, I'd be interested in getting at least the body. what kind of shape are the doors/rockers/main body in? I don't care about floors. I'm thinking extended cab comanche...

can't really find anything else that fits. I just had my double cardan rear driveshaft rebuilt and retubed...I bent it on a rock. it was only .083 wall tube, it is now .138, which is just below 3/16". he had no trouble balancing it, but said I might notice vibes a bit if I ran small tires and deep gears. told him I had 33's and 4.10's and he laughed and said I won't have any issues. and I don't...it's perfect.

it may be a tad darker. that's after several coats and it's still wet, so we will see. I really like the color...that xj actually appears lighter green than it actually is The xj looks more blueish to me,, I like the dark green; you should throw some metallic in with it. my crappy cell phone didn't quite pick up the mettalic flakes that are in the green paint I chose... :rotfl2: I'll get better pics when I finish painting the tailgate

it may be a tad darker. that's after several coats and it's still wet, so we will see. I really like the color...that xj actually appears lighter green than it actually is

repainting the wheeling truck. pretty much set on going Emerald Green. probably all rattle can but with the proper prep it will look good and hold up fine (plus I can keep a touchup can with me) now bare with me...I did zero prep on the tailgate. bought a can and sprayed to see what it would look like. I will sand it down and clean it before actually doing the final coat. here's my friend Jake's (JakeWI) cherokee...same color and yes, we're back to the shotty cell phone pics for the purpose of this thread....the digi cam decided to hide itself. yay or ney?

that's a little too vague. it has the same weak points as any other comanche, except that it could have a 2.8 liter gmc v6. that engine is worthless and you CANNOT make it worthwhile. no matter what you do, it's junk. if it's a 4 cylinder don't worry about it. and the engine bay being smaller is a much-disagreed-upon myth. some have that issue, some don't. no guarantees. if it happens to be smaller, it would only be by maybe a couple inches around the right hand side of the transmission hump on the bottom of the firewall. if you want to do a 4.0 swap on one, you need a new hood, new radiator supports (this includes the steel behind the headlight buckets), and a new front crossmember- all from a 4.0 liter.

exactly. it's really a 2 man job though take a hammer, and a bench vice (even a couple blocks of wood will work) and tap the caps in (immediately removing the retaining clip on each one) with the back of a heavy ball-pin hammer pressed against the cap, and swinging with another heavy hammer onto the flat end. go thorugh them and do that, then wedge the ears between the blocks, and hammer against the base side of the shaft (not the thinnest part which wraps around the bearing caps, but the other side of the bearing cap where it is meetier) to knock them out. never fails me *shrug*

who cares about a fuKus? those cars absolutely suck in the end. they don't even have worthwhile mods to do to them. well, at least without looking like a !#@#$

I may have blown my t-case, or at least the double cardan on the front driveshaft. it kind of doesn't like to move without making lots of noise. on the same note...I dropped off the rear driveshaft to be retubed today. the dust shields fell out of the cardan, so he needs to rebuild the cardan. he's also giving me longer slip so I have more up and down slip with the thing, and he's retubing it to .138 wall tube so roughly twice the thickness of the old tube. maybe next time I won't break the shaft... :wall:

you need to take the entire dash out to remove the wiring. there is no other way.

I lurnt me real quick...this ain't my first rodeo. (I was told the 3800 wouldn't fit. it's cool and all and I definitely like it better than a 4.0...but in retrospect a 4.0 swap would have been easier.

giving up so quickly? :rotfl2: well, I KNOW I can make custom gauges work. I THINK I can make most of the factory gauges work. which would you choose...that which you know, or that which you're relatively cerain?

he means one of those little combination clusters with the oil pressure, temp, and volt meter. Lenard, yes that will work. but it's mechanical gauges, meaning that you will have to figure out how to drill and tap for those locations and make them work. Just put a wanted ad in the classifieds section and buy a factory cluster from an 87-90. I just sold one for like $35. that's about what you'd pay for the 3-in-1 with everything you'd need, and a factory install is half the headache. remember though, you will need to get the factory oil pressure and temperature sensors to make it work.

no, but he also probably doesn't want/need the cherokee sitting around since it's wrecked. let's put it this way...my buddy bought a mercury mountaineer from a doctor in Chicago who decided to "go green" with a hybrid. he thought it was worthless because it only gets 21mpg, so he sold it to my friend chris for $2200. list price was $9300 in poor condition at that time. Doctors (or I should say most of them) don't look at reality the same way we do. of course, the reality of the situation is that the xj is NOT worth more than 700 bucks. hopefully his view on reality isn't too screwed up

86 gauges only work with 84-early 87 jeeps. you need 87-90 gauges.

when a friend has to rescue you... :rotf: what? what are you talking about? ...I was merely pulling you backwards down the hill, because gravity seemed to be negated by your truck that day. :brows: actually, the photo was just taken at a scewed angle....I'm going uphill, wade is the one who's stuck :rotfl2: :cheers: 8)

stuck? what is the meaning of this word "stuck"? never heard of it. I'm sorry I must be a newb at this...

yeah. screw it. going custom gauges. sam, I haven't gotten it yet. just talked to the shop where it's at...owner (doctor) wants $1200. I'll be mentioning everything that's wrong with it. I did listen to it and drive it around the parking lot...runs well, drives decent considering how bent the frame is. shifts great. leaky rear main (or at least that's what I'll be telling him...it's probably just the valve cover since the head is nice and oily) and dirty engine. it's an np231 not a 242, chryco 8.25 rear for sure (29 spline). I think I can get him down to $400-$700 considering that it's not repairable. after popping the hood, and looking down @ the frame...it's bent and twisted in front of and behind the steering box....i.e. the frame rail is JUNK and no right-minded body shop would even attempt to fix it. the roof is also rippled in the rear, both bumpers are shot, etc. but...it's worth it for the parts that I want.

ya, but he seems confident that he can use the cam signal from the 3800, and make it work in his cluster. which will be tough cuz i think that was a newer 3.8 w/ 3 coil pack. but it can be done. lol. it does have 3 coils. but. I already adapted it with a signal modifyer from bakerelectronix...I see no reason why I can't do it likewise to match the 4.0 signal.

i think thats the way to go. since the 38000 is stand alone. and if the obd system works thats all it would take to make check engine light work, if your concerned about it working. and just use the 4.0 parts to make the cluster work and thats all. i think thats cooler than mechanical gauges to have the interior functioning in that mj. yeah it would be expensive, but I know a couple of guys with tuners that could probably do it for a smaller fee. I think my theory on making the gauges work should work. just trying to think if I'm missing anything in it though. and the aftermarket gauges I'd use would probably be digital or at least electrical....I can't use mechanical tach on the thing, there's no provision for it and I have no intent of relying on mechanical gauges. I trust electrical more because if they fail, I can diagnose it...and also it doesn't have a cable that can kink, get melted by the headers, etc.

it goes through the ECU yes, but I can adapt my signal from the 3800 to that of the 4.0 and send it through the 4.0 computer to be interpreted. hmm. I may attempt this...get the motor rebuilt, throw it back in with the 97 wiring just layed in the engine bay, and attempt it and see if this works. if it does, great. if not...just get autometer white gauges with a green backlight

ant run the oldergauge cluster with the newer dah..it wouldn't fit even if I wanted to. I'm doing a 97 update on the truck. I am keeping the 3800 v6 though...it has more power and torque than a 4.0, and I regularly get 27-31mpg with it when it is running. so, I can't use anything 4.0 related. I'm thinking I could have those sections of the computer flashed and removed, so all it does is take the inputs from the sending units. the other option is to just throw it all in like that and not bother faking anything, cut the check engine lite wire out, and hook the 3800's check engine light pinout at the ECU to that light. that's probably my best bet. because the gauges should theoretically work even if the rest of the computer does literally nothing. all I need form it are mph from the electric speedo, oil pressure, volt meter, fuel level, and coolant temp.

I'm going to hopefully pick up a totalled 97 cherokee today. it's a 4.0/5 speed (ax15) with np242 and 29 spline 8.25, all power everything. the motor is going into an 89 comanche with a 95 aw4 (have the right flex plate for it) and 95 wiring harness. the 97 interior and harness is going into the 3800. it has one good fender and half a good header panel...I know where another one is with the opposite side in good shape, so I will probably resort to glassing two headers together. anyways. I know I've been adament about saying you can't make a 97+ gauge cluster work with an older 4.0. BUT.... I had an interesting little idea. the 3800 camaro motor runs on it's own wiring harness. it's using jeep oil pressure and temperature sending units...I'm wondering if I can put the 4.0 wiring harness in and use it's sending units on the 3800. I would run a 4.0 computer and "trick" it into taking the right input parameters for a running at idle 4.0, so basically all the 4.0 computer would be doing is translating inputs to the gauge cluster. anyone think it's possible? I know I can change the signal from the 3800's tachometer to match that of a 4.0 fairly easily. the only issue I'm having is what do I do to eliminate fuel delivery systems from the 4.0, and how do I trick the computer into not throwing a CEL when it sees that the tachometer is increasing but it's values from the fake TPS and other fake sensors are not increasing. ...it's either this, or I just hack everything I don't want that's related to 4.0 from the engine bay harness, and keep only the power supplies to the dash wiring, and all lighting wiring intact in the 4.0 harness. then run autometer gauges in place of the 97 cluster, for which I have an A-pillar pod in order to make them all fit.

buy everything for a 1998. clutch kit and all. the 90 clutch kit won't engage properly with the 98 throwout assembly in all likelihood

it varies by vehicle and original purchaser's order sheet. only way to know is to run the VIN number, or look inside the axle. but if it had one it would be a trac-lock.