JeepcoMJ

lol. when the 3800 is done, because it's so sentimental to me (it's my first EVERYTHING project. anything done on it was the first time I'd done it, and I was taught by my dad while doing it), it won't see maybe 2000 miles a year. driving it isn't really my plan....sunny days, car shows are about it. as far as your 86 goes, pm me a price when you get there, and we will work something out. I'm envisioning it as the vessel for my dad's original renault turbo diesel and everything that comes with that. It's a good thing that, at your current pace, that may take awhile :rotfl2: :cheers:

well, I've been sitting outside looking at the 3800 feeling very depressed. and I took a bit more of the motor apart to get a look at it. I'm gonna punch it .020 over just because, throw a new crank in it and obviously new pistons. while it's apart it's going to be acid dipped because I want everything out of the oil passageways...that's what got the rod bearings in the first place, throw a new oil pump in it, new timing chain, I'll rebuild the heads and do a bit of mild porting. it already has a competition cam in it but I may replace it just because the rest is gonna be new, throw it together with a high end gasket set, and then put it back in. before it goes in, I am going to strip the engine and dash wiring and interior, and bed off, then have the whole truck steam cleaned. paint the engine bay gloss black, and put the motor in. I'm building my own bellhousing for the ax15 so that I can make it fit the factory 86 external slave cylinder because the clutch hydraulic system is all new. steam clean the transmission and np242 transfercase, wire brush them, and paint the trans black to match the motor, but clean/polish the t-case. clean all floor rust (minimal) and undercoat after rustproofing before that all goes in. need to redo the exhaust manifolds so its easier to remove the transmission should I ever need to. once it's in and running again (when I installed the camaro 3800 buick v6 I built the wiring as a standalone so I just need 5 plus, one acc. plus, and a few grounds), I will move on to body work on the cab corners then clean/sand/prep the cab. then put the 97 front conversion on with the headlight wiring harness run to it's location. then decide what to do about doors and interior...I would like a 97 conversion, but cannot use 97 gauges with that because I'm using the 3800, and that also is added expense for aftermarket gauges. at this point the main chassis will be done, prepped and primed and sanded, and the engine in and running. I will be running an aftermarket in-line fuel pump and retaining the factory fuel tank, albeit a brand new one that I have. I'll want it running/driving before I delve too far into the rest of the project. but at least that will be progress, and none of that will take all that long...a few weekends. the 87 will get it's paint job. going to stick with rattle can with clean prep-work and nice clear-coat. the colour is emerald green. finish the rock rails, weld the spider gears front and rear, and finish off the rear bumper and install roll bar. from there, other than getting some 34" mud terrains down the road, it's done. that won't cost more than a couple hundred dollars for everything but tires, since I have the steel already. That will end that project for the prolonged future. everything else goes, but I will be keeping a spare np231 or two, a spare ax15, and my spare np242, and other miscellaneous parts for my trail repair kit.

No, you can re-use the stock MJ gas tank, and sending unit, and fuel lines up to the frame mounted fuel filter. What you need to do, is change the in tank fuel pump, and you can use the donors (XJ 4.0) fuel pump, in place of the MJ's 2.5 fuel pump. This it the only difference between the 2 engines, is the psi of the fuel pumps. The MJ's sending unit will work, because your donor is a Renix era electrical system. the comanche and cherokee fuel pumps aren't the same size, from all of the ones I've looked at. the cherokee one was half the size of the comanche one...thus not swappable. I suppose there would be no reason for the tank not to work. the rubber lines coming from the fuel tank to the hard lines should be replaced...it is old, and also not rated to the pressure of an H.O. pump. You can just pick up a comanche pump from someone on the club (I should have several), or you can buy a new pump, and pop it on the 2.5 sending unit. IIRC the fuel level sender's float is different between the 2.5 and 4.0, but it should still work.

lol. it has nothing to do with stomach. I just don't really care for them...family and friends are as far as I can extend that type of care.

thanks...but I have absolutely no idea who Chico is.

lol, no...service tech at Ken's Beverage. I bailed on EMT after I got all my certs in order...decided I don't really like helping people who have medical problems (both stupidly self-induced and otherwise). I have enough of my own ha!

shoot me a pm, come on over sometime soon...I can't do anything this weekend as I'm on call at work, but the following weekend you can come grab whatever you may need. pm me a list first.

yup. aside from obviously the engine, cooling system, and other associated necessary parts. you won't be able to use a cherokee gas tank in the stock location BTW...just won't fit. you could go the simplest route here and just get an aftermarket in-line fuel pump and filter and cut them in under the cab. you're going to need the 87's entire front core support. this includes the front cross-member, headlight bucket supports (the metal behind the headlight buckets), and upper radiator support. this will require drilling spot welds out on the donor vehicle, and spot-welding them in (after removing the old junk) to the 86. you'll also need the 4.0 hood because the hood latches are different and not interchangeable.

I'm seriously contemplating getting rid of everything Jeep that I have and starting over. After going through the barn and milkhouse attic over the weekend, and pulling out my junk, I realized there is just too much of it. I've been throwing away parts and pieces that are usable etc. but I'll never use, and don't have time/desire to throw them up on the forums. it's just too overwhelming, so it's easier to just say screw it. I have untold thousands of dollars invested in jeep crap, and not much to show for it. the 87 is really trying my patience right now...I still cannot figure out the popping in the steering, and now the oil pressure on my 3k mile engine has gone eradic on me varying from 20 to 60 PSI when it normally stays around 30-40. it needs another couple grand invested to get it where I want it, and I'm already in the thing around 6 grand. the 3800 has around $7500 invested right now maybe more depends how many reciepts I've lost (a fair few)....but it needs a new bed after getting hit in the arse end (insurance of other guy never paid out btw), it needs new cab corners, a new paint job (my $2k one was not worth it...it actually CAUSED the rust, and the filler panels I made for the pass. side wheel well were not used...they glassed it instead of doing it right, how I payed for them to do it), needs motor rebuilt ($1000 or so), and really does need an ax15 with dakota bellhousing, plus the front axle is bent (always has been apparently). It's gonna cost another 5 to 6 grand to get it done right and put how I want it, with a full 97 dash and doors and front clip conversion. I have a real nice cherokee body that's rust-free and heavily modified for offroad...but it is stripped to bare, just has doors and windows pretty much. I have no use for it, but I can't bring myself to scrap it. still need to pick up another of my comanches from the guy I got it from...haven't had time and luckily he's ok with that. have my hands in other people's jeep projects cause they need help, and I'm finding myself spread too thin. also working on a couple of 70's alfa romeos to make two good cars out of 5 of them, and I've been scratching my head on that. on top of that, my mother wants everything cleaned up at the farm (where I store and work on eveyrthing) so she can get prepared to start a perrenial farm next spring...there's alot that needs to be done. it's just alot of stuff. I don't mind working on a vehicle now and again, but with $$$ invested in the jeeps, I can't manage to save any, and certainly can't manage to get just a little daily driver that requires no $$$ invested. gah. stress. :wall: :wall: :fs1:

perfect. it will all bolt in, except you will need an MJ 4.0 HO sending unit for the fuel tank.

as stated, the ax5 5 speed has not ever nor will ever be capable of being bolted to a 4.0, much less handling the power. you need every little part from the 4.0 to swap into the MJ, including gas tank and fuel sender and likely fuel lines.

on a side note, goblazers are you aware that a TNT Y-link is NOT a long arm?

do you have the complete engine bay AND interior harness? gauge cluster? all other little odds and ends electrical related for the inside? do you have the open cooling radiator? cooling lines? vacuum harness? engine computer, all sensors on engine and trans, etc. including speedo sensor? do you have the transfercase for the 91? those are different input spline (23 spline), so your old one (21 spline) won't work

that's really not a good reason. the power differences are minimal (like 5hp if that). if you're wanting true HO, you're gonna need a complete donor vehicle.

search "H.O. conversion" using the search feature. this has been done many times. I did it, fairly straight forward. but you'll need to swap all electrical, fuel sending unit, gauges, all electrical components to make it work like a H.O. you can adapt a renix (87-90) throttle position sensor to fit on a H.O. (91+) throttle body, and put a renix distributor, fuel rail, fuel injectors, and CPS with the motor and it will run, but you'll have to do an EGR delete on it and it will no longer have a knock sensor. this may effect your check engine light, and you may not make it through emissions (if you even have to) w/o the egr.

Quit wasting bandwidth and padding your post count with you stupid BS responses.... :thwak: I noticed that your post count has been padded on this page of the thread just as much as mine. :dunno: Oh yeah I just remembered that yesterday I thought about my jeep while making a sandwich you, and goblazers, need to stop being immature dumbasses.

You mean as the seller or buyer? The buyer. If the seller is on here, I know he's laughing to the bank. :D None of us cheap suckers would pay out that amount. Hell, that's the price for a whole truck with the tail lights in WI. :cheers: But to be fair most of the truck is rusted away, except for the lights that is. hey now.... :rotfl2: :dunno:

...if you are buying a kit with adjustable control arms (uppers AND lowers), then you DO NOT need drop brackets.

yeah, do anything you can to save it. I'm going to be picking up an m715 in the near future, and it would be very nice to swap the 4 banger out for a 360. that, with factory 5.13 gears will kick @$$. just need the donor truck lol.

year? it's pretty much the same process any year... loosen power steering pump (pretty much same process as doing a 4.0's p/s pump), remove belt(s), disconnect battery, unbolt terminals from alternator (similar location to the 4.0 alternator), unbolt several bolts/nuts, remove, replace, reverse order. the only real difference is between 86 and 87 when they changed over to Serpentine belts. Basically, you have to take off more belts with a V belt assembly. here's the too differences

header, bored throttle body, larger injectors is pretty much what you're limited to with renix setups.

what's highlited in bold is BS. they are identical between auto and 5 speed, or at least interchangeable. if you can get one for an auto, grab it. the only difference is whether it's a cruise control or non-cruise speedo cable.

thanks. they turn lock to lock without touching ANY steering components or control arms, and they just barely contact the rear lower corners of the front flares. I think with minimal trimming all around, and raising the flares 2", then bumpstopping one more inch, and dropping the upper shock mount 1", I would be extremely happy with these tires. for the life of me, I can't remember what they are. dunlop raidals I think.

pics of tires and lock box.

:D threw my bro's 35's on it. he's thinking he wants to go bigger, but he wants the rims. fine by me...this thing looks ridiculous now. also put the tuffy lock box in the truck...mocked up for now but it's very nice, fits perfect with my xj rocker seats (slightly higher seats...the factory center console was too low b4 but it's perfect height now), and pulled my camo seat covers out of the cover to discover that the white...has a pinkish hue. time to bleach :P