LocoJeeper

I like the Gorilla external spline locking lug nuts. Don't know the material ... not sure if its stainless or not, but they look really sharp. I bought mine at Quadratec. Noticed at the PA Jeeps Show that they now have all-lugs (as opposed to just 5 locks) external spline in BLACK (oowww.. .fancy). - Ben @ Loco4WD.com

I did try that. I had machined a little adapter to fit on to the end of the rod that connects to the e-brake handle. Then I ran a short cable from the end of the adapter to the tensioner thats mounted half way down the bed... that didn't work. It kept loosing tension, or falling apart.... anywho, thats how I ended up running cables from the drum straight to the xj tensioner mounted on the end of the handle. Just seemed more reliable. - Ben

I searched and searched and searched and could not find a straight answer as to what to do. So I just worked until it worked... First answer, the cherokee cables are not nearly long enough to reach the drums. What I did was use the cherokee handle and cut into the transmission hump. Then, I sourced Tru Torque (p/n C660157 from Advance Auto Parts) emergency brake cables for a 1998 Dodge Durango. They allowed enough slack even after the SOA swap. I even needed to criss-cross the two cables just to take up the extra slack. There is probably a closer measurement out there somewhere... but I wanted to stick to MOPAR and vehicles that I was sure would have similar rear brake setups, since I was just assuming they would fit. All worked out fine. Hope this helps. - Ben @ Loco4WD.com

When you say that you swapped clusters... are you talking about taking the "idiot light" version gauge cluster and swapping in a full analog set from an XJ? If so, you will need to replace the sensor that takes those readings. If I remember correctly, its in the far right corner of the engine block (towards the firewall) on the right hand side. - Ben

Look into Miller. We just got a new plasma cutter at work that is 110/220. Sensa-something-a-nother they call it. Its a proprietary plug that Miller supplies with both a 110 adapter and 220 adapter. Then some little circuit board inside sense what voltage your pluged into and adjusts accordingly. At least in the plasma cutter sense you can use it fairly well in both environments. I do notice a little better performance using it on 220, though... for obvious reasons. I just saw in JP Magazine that they have a portable MIG package with the same type of plug. Not sure what else comes with that ... but worth a look. Good luck. - Ben

Hey gang, Anyone else head out to the PA Jeeps Show in York, PA? There was this sweet looking silver MJ on display... oh wait... That was mine. Took 2nd place in the modified classification. Pics coming soon, I promise. - Ben

I just used one this past week to wire up the relay for my off-road lights. here's what I did: (1) Top = To Relay for Lights (2) Mid = To +12v power source (3) Bot = Empty For some reason it worked like that... not sure why it didn't need a ground at least to get the the light to work, but it worked just fine as above. - Ben

If the wrangler had coils, yes it would be a TJ, unless it's bran-new, and that would be the JK. Opps.. that's what i get for reading too fast. Yes... TJ. 1997-01, coil springs, round headlights and first the get air bags. Same punch line though... way different.

That would be a YJ (87-95, square headlights, leaf springs)... and it probably won't fit. YJ's and MJ's are different widths, heights and shapes... so thats a real slim chance of it even looking at all like it fits, let alone bolting up. I would imagine however, if it were "above the bumper" bolt on, straight up and down, it could be worked onto an MJ... but probably still won't look right. - Ben

I can't seem to spot it in the photos... but the RE generation II disconnects come with little "studs" that you bolt on the inner fender well and then when disconnecting the sway bar you swing it up to the stud and pin it in place. One of the cleanest and easiest disco's I've had. - Ben

I'm not sure what all is involved in rekeying a lock cylinder... but for me it was the cheapest option just to go to the Junk yard and get an XJ/MJ lockset for $5 and get new replacement keys made, rather then try and rekey the cylinders to match the key I already had. Just my two cents. - Ben

I took the opportunity to swap in a lockset from a 91+ XJ (chrysler single key design). Fit perfectly. Except to gain "single key" advantage you would to swap the ignition lock cylinder, which is a bit more involved (I did it for the first time in a long afternoon... probably could do it in an hour if I had to do it over). Good luck. - Ben

I don't know why, but for some reason I just love this pic. If only the rear tires were drag slicks, and you had a nice powerplant under the hood with a blower sticking out, it'd be perfect. Anyways, looks great all finished (for now, as we all know a Jeep is never completed). (Speaking entirely from an automotive venue that I know absolutely nothing about...) you could probably make a real decent drag car/truck out of an MJ. Mess with the rear bed and frame enough to drop the back end back down after putting bigger slicks on it... stuff a 350 into it. Stiffen the bananas out of the front unibody. Hmmmm..... - Ben

Hey gang. I finally got around to putting the lift on my 1989 Jeep Comanche project code-named “Maggie”. The final build consisted of: * Spring over axle conversion in the rear using AtoZ Fabrication’s perch kit. * Rubicon Express XJ 4.5″ Coils (RE1310) * Rubicon Express 1.75″ Coil Spring Spacers (RE1334) * Rubicon Express Extreme Duty XJ Track Bar (RE1660) * Rubicon Express Heavy Duty Track Bar Bracket (RE1665) * Rubicon Express Super-Flex Adjustable Lower Control Arms (RE3715) * Rubicon Express Super-Flex Adjustable Upper Control Arms (RE3780) * Rubicon Express Generation II Quick Disconnects (RE1141) * JKS Bar Pin Eliminators (9603) * JKS Shock Conversions (9602) * Monroe Sensa-Trac Shocks (37101) * Tru Torque Front Brake Lines - 95 GMC 1500 (H38621 & H38621) * Tru Torque Rear Brake Line - 95 Dodge Dakota (H38636) * Super Swamper TrXus MTR’s (33×12.5R15) * Crager Soft 8’s (15×10 5 on 4.5) That’s it… I think. Minus a few nuts and bolts that I had I pulled from my supply along the way. Without further delay, here are the pictures. Right before the lift: Right in the middle of lifting (anyone for Jeep drag racing): Lift done, with stock tires: Done, with 33’s:

I'd be up for doing that too... at some point. Keep us posted.

I thought that too, it was mentioned as a question in a previous thread... but I don't think anyone ever responded. I am curious to find out, i am sure some one out in internet-land has tried it. Anybody? - Ben

Thanks guys. That should give me enough info to tackle the semi-project. Already got all the soft lines (gmc something another up front and dakota rear) and I have some new hard line here (coiled in a box) somewhere. Would just need to run out and get replacement fittings. Thanks again. - Ben

Hey gang, I am literally in the middle of my SOA on the rear, and want to address the rear height sensing valve in the brake system. I figured I would just bypass it, but theirs two lines going to the valve and splitter combo ... figure there would only be one from the front of the vehicle rather then two. How do I bypass this thing? I would like to remove it completely now while I can still crawl under their without an axle in the way. Thanks. - Ben

I have a Hobart Handler 180 (the older 220 unit, just above the 140). I like it very much. And its basically the same thing as the Miller line... just purple-ish instead of blue. My gun even says "miller" on the side of it. All parts are interchangeable. We have a Miller 140 unit (basically the same as the Hobart unit) here at work. Nice little machine. We use flux core, so can't tell you about the gas hook up... but it performs nice. Unless you have a genetic aversion to Purple ... go with the Hobart unit. made in the USA, made by miller in fact. But about 20% cheaper. Just my $0.02. - Ben @ Loco4WD.com

I'm confused... your saying downstream (as in our own connection be it DSL or cable or dial-up) bandwidth, not the sites bandwidth. The sites (as in comancheclub.com) would not be affected as the images come from another site (photobucket). Just a clarification. - Ben

Just skimmed the thread... but there is another important difference in fan control ... the renix is on/off, the HO version is variable voltage. Roughly same end result but different process. So you can't exactly swap in a HO switch, as that won't send the right signal. I bought (and have an extra one :-) a 90-something or other Corvette thermostat which is the right thread, the right temperature range, and an on/off switch to work on a renix to HO cooling system conversion. I have a thread somewhere as to how this works... not my own discovery. I'll find it if someone is interested. God Bless, Ben @ Loco4WD.com

I picked up mine at Advance Auto Parts (http://www.partsamerica.com)

Never thought of that! My sister had a Alliance convertible and we did have to replace the seats. Of course this was when my DD was a YJ and I had very little clue what a MJ was... so I really can't say for sure. But now that you made me think of it... there are VERY VERY VERY similar. Can't confirm or deny the fitment issue. As I do believe that little black beast ended up in a JY somewhere after she trade it in. God Bless, Ben @ Loco4WD.com

What you'd need is both doors, and the harness that runs between the two doors. Also, if you are trying the power mirror thing, you'll need the harness and switch that connects to the center console. About the MJ, I figure I'm gonna keep it for a bit longer. Getting the diesel truck I really want isn't in the picture until 2010 (probably a silverado 2500), so I might as well just keep the MJ for a little while longer. Besides I'm only a few parts short of the complete build. God Bless, Ben @ Loco4WD.com

I swapped power window and door hardware over from an XJ. I grabbed the power window hardware and wiring too, but ended up chucking it because it seemed like too much extra work for not a whole lot of extra "wow". Not sure about the keyless entry. I have plans to just get an aftermarket entry and remote start kit and wire it in. For the power window / doors you just need to get all the internal motors and servos (grab the "arms" too, I know there was an extra one that I needed to get the power locks to work), the wiring (between the two doors too) and the switches. Or you could do what I did and just grab the whole door and move it over piece by piece when you have the time. Hope this helps. God Bless, Ben @ Loco4WD.com