shelbyluvv

Jeremy, most Autozones or Advance carry them in their help sections. They are pretty much a universal part for a GM.

Honestly I didn't even think about that. I bet shipping all that would be $$$$!

http://www.rockauto.com

Hillbilly is a nutter won.

Yep, heater core is plugged up. Feel the heater hoses and see if both of them are hot with it running and up to normal operating temp. If only one is hot than it is plugged. I don't think the 98s had the heater valve on them. If it deose make sure that it is working as well.

Now onto the seat bracket install. I started by cutting the mounts out of the donor XJ. They are welded and spot welded in a few different places. This will test your patience! This is the passenger side XJ mount in the MJ. \ Where the MJ mounts were cut out and the new ones mounted. You will have to notch the XJ mount to fit over the center hump in the MJ floor pan. This is the veiw from the front of the notch. Here is the rear of the notch looking forward. I was also able to retain 1 factory seat mount on each side to help hold the new brackets in and line everything up.

OK, OK, already! LOL, here are some pics of the parking brake lever. In this pic you can see the lever mounted with the bracket I made coming out of the back of it. Also notice the cable is the stock MJ one, un-modified. Here is a closer shot of the bracket. This bracket came off the underside of the 97 and it held the 2 cables going to the axle. All I did was cut it in half, between the cable mounts. Here is the backside of the lever. Sorry for the blurry pic but it is hard to take pics in the truck. You can see the hole in the bottom of the lever where I cut the XJs cable holder off of it. The XJs brake cable goes through the floor, where the MJ's goes through the cab. It also gives you a good look at the bracket and how I mounted it.

Cut the floor brackets out of the donor Jeep and the MJ. The XJ brackets are welded and spot welded in a few places You will need to notch the XJ bracket to fit over the hump in the MJs floor. I have mine just screwed in right now and they hold ok until I get them welded in fully. I can snap a few picks of mine if you would like me too. The seats are a real treat to fit in.

WOW! I can't believe we forgot to fix that! I would pull it off the fuel filter and cut a couple inches off the line and reattach it. That should pull it away from the shaft for good.

Where did I say pull it off? I said keep messing with it!

Keep messing with it. Once you get the screws loose enough the fuse box will come out. I thought I was going to break it on the way out. I don't need a 88 interior (I gave it all to BookspanS) but I want your brown door panels still!

Remove everything from the front of the dash. Then pull the upper cover and take the 4 or 5 bolts out next to the windsheild. The column can stay put but it does make it easier to remove the steering wheel to get the dash out We should have switched it while you were here. The doorless mod is cool though. Have you been showing it off yet?

WE MADE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I remember when I ordered a RK kit, the first thing they asked me was the year. Their kit is not compatible with 89 or older Jeep XJs or any MJ. I thought that might have changed with the Gen III kit. I guess not. If you would have ordered it from them (RK) they would have told you that it was not compatible with your truck. I wouldn't blame Rockkrawler for this, blame the vendor you got it from, They sold it to you.

I liked that. I am as nervous as a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs! Come on 6:00 Sunday!

ARB Bull bar

They are different. The WJ uses a bigger coil bucket in the front. The spacers will likely hit the inner fender well. The rear spacers are HUGE and will not work at all. I have a WJ and tried to use the spacers on a MJ.

Now find me a shinny one Brent!

DO NOT CUT AND WELD THOSE ARMS!!! They are solid stock. You had better be a really, really good welder to pull that off safely. Even then I would not put my life in the hands of a welded arm. You have 3 options, 1. Move the mounts to the right location under the truck. This could require a lot of fab work because of where the cross member is located. 2. Cut the end of the arm off and drill and retap the threads. This will void the warranty on the arms. But, it is a safer plan than cutting and welding them back together. 3. Send the kit back and get one that will work with your current engine and trans combination.

Thanks Don. I will check it out in the morning. Any tips on getting swirls and thin sctarches out of them? Looks like someone rubbed there boots on them at one time. I will be back in SoCal within the next 2 years!

It will get worse and worse as time goes on. Here is the write up I use to fix them all the time. http://www.chevyasylum.com/column/tiltcol.html

Thanks for the tips. I got one nerf finished. They look to be stainless steel. I also got half of one of the bed rails done. They are chrome plated. The paint on both is EXTREMLY thick. It looks like about 10 coats. I tried thinner and steel wool and all it did was make a sticky, slimy, smelly mess. So far my brass stencils are working pretty good. Just a bunch of work. I should have the nerfs cut and mounted this weekend sometime. and the bed rails set in place. I am not sure how the rails will look with the roll bar. It could be to much tube on the bed. We will see as soon as I get the roll bar and install it too. I happen to love chrome on a black truck. I may become the "King of Bling" very soon!

I just got a smoking deal ($40) on some chrome nerf bars and tubular bed rails off a short box Ram. The nerfs will need some massaging to work on the MJ but not much. The only catch is they were spray painted black. I got one nerf almost done by using a brass stencil to scrape the paint off. This was not a fun process but it did not damage the finish under it. What is the best way to get the paint off and not damage the bling under it?

In the rare case that it is an auto it should have 4:56s. AX-5 normally 4:10s AX-4 normally 3:55s

I just type www.comancheclub.com/forums into my browser and never have to deal with the home page. I did not know it changed until I cliked your link.