deziped

What it's made out of & by whom has a lot to do with establishing a value. Give us sum-hun to work with, photos would help. Holes & dents knock it considerably.

Possible vacumn leak. My 89 was doing the exact same thing for past two weeks. Found the problem at the vacumn line at the rear center of valve cover. The small line in the orfice was loose in the hole and loseing vacumn, or would come out completely when I hit a bump or the engine rocked a little at shut off. I pulled it out and wapped a little elec. tape around the end and forced it into the hole so it was a tight fit. Have had no problems last couple days. Starts like it should and doesn't die anymore.

His R hand went toward the left, but, the center screw was turning to his R (CW). the only time anything went left (CCW) was during the initial loosening of the lock down nut.

Are you aware that you can turn the dash lights on (bright) & off (DIM) by turning the light switch knob CW or CCW. Try that mayb their just turned so low they appear to be ofF.

A bad 5 Amp INST LAMP fuse at upper right side of fuse box (depending on vehicle) can cause this problem you have described. At initial startup radio & clock light are controlled by ignition switch, however, when you pull the light switch thier control is assumed by that switch. So bad fuse, no dash lights.

Goats eat it down, but it will grow right back. So the goats need to be a permanet fixture. Cross bow has always killled it for me and it don't come back. However it takes a couple years to get control of new PO that pops up here and there. FWIW.

Cross Bow applied properly will kill it. Becareful you don't get on anything (neighbors trees berry plants, wifes flowers), etc., that you don't intend to kill. Do it on a dry windless day. Or sic some goats on it.

.Sent PM. Ignore this, I'd delete if if I knew how........

CANCEL/ignore this request Need 1 Visor Clip (Gray), for an 89 MJ, like the one in fore-front of picture. Local JY no have it, ebay have wrong ones. Image Not Found

More info go here. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/shift-g ... ion-99950/ And yes I did grind off at the rear of the 231 gate.

Roseburg OR, $4.04

I think your right, the studs are short.

http://corvallis.craigslist.org/cto/2888089277.html

http://roseburg.craigslist.org/cto/2891576183.html

The 231 shift gate will work with the 242 trf case. I have one in mine. At the front (2 Hi position) use a Dremel or what ever to grind off about 1/8" where the shifter strikes the front.. At the stop where the shifter strikes the leg (Separating Full Time from Neutral position) grind off about 1/16" from the front side of leg. This will allow the engagement of 2 Hi position and full engagement of FULL time gear position. Don't remember if I ground anything off at rear for better 4 Low engagement. Mine works fine and allows the electric switch to function which shows gear position (Part time amber or full time green on the instrument panel). You may have to trial test to make sure it works properly. Hindsight, I would search the JY for a XJ with select track and just swap the gate.

Any drive gear you need this place probally has. And they sell like new used ones also. 1/3 the price of a new one. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/highperflist.htm Run the 1st page index until you see the blue drive gear and click on that link.

On carb equipped vehicles (old days) these were essential on some vehicles. I had chevv/ford/buicks that would freeze the carbs in winter under cold conditions with just the right amount of moisture in the air. If I didn't have the hose on and it was 35* or under the carb would freeze to the point fuel quit flowing. Had to stop and let it idle till things thawed out and away you go again. By blocking of the air flow through the radiator and running a little hotter you could overcome this. Were nights when I had to stop 2 or 3 times between Pueblo and CSpngs and wait for it to thaw. Finally would just throw a large piece of cardboard in front of the radiator and they were good to go for the winter season.

No ones heard/found my cousin since he was last seen advancing up a hill at the Punchbowl area in 52-53 time frame. Probally never will at this late date..

A small 9mm is the Makarov. Reliable, 8rd magazine, 6 3/8" long, cheap, and safe and easy to decock. I find it ideal CC in pocket or holster. Image Not Found

Damn, that gave me a headache and my eyes refuse to focus.

http://salem.craigslist.org/pts/2823219264.html Anyone tried these on an 89-90 Renix 4L? Other than port alignment and possibly I'm interference, what yuh think. Much cheaper than Borla Or Pacesetter headers.

Guess no one nows the answer to that as they keep answering your question with a question or, talking around it. I seen that info on the net somewhere, but, I'm to lazy to look for it.

My caster adjusts at rear of lower control arms with shims/spacers.

Did you check the release/throw out bearing at clutch fork.

Bleed the brakes again, rear to front.