neohic

Unless it's a known good one for a real cheap-o price, I wouldn't fuss around with a used alternator. Either have yours rebuilt or just go with a parts store rebuilt unit.

I wouldn't even dink around with it. Cut it off and weld on a new receiver tube from just about anywhere you can get a draw bar from: Then to keep things clean, I use a real fancy square wire brush that's made for use inside a 2" receiver tube. Can't find a picture online, but just imagine a wire brush that's square... I think I got it at a Harbor Freight? Anyhow, I'll scrub it out good at least once a year depending on how much it gets used. Make sure to touch up the paint inside afterwards too.

Yeah... it's pretty easy to be a creep online. I took it upon myself to spice up your credit score also by opening a few credit card accounts and then used them to put a down payment on a lake shore cabin. Think of it as an investment property. :thumbsup:

Rightfully back on 33s today. Obviously need to do something about the rears but the front flares are just about right... legal, anyhow. So what else does one do after putting new shoes under their Jeep? What else but poser shots?...

You're probably right. I'll be sure to coat the fins real good with undercoat before installing it! :idea:

Just ordered a copper three core radiator for it too.

Had a very unfortunate surprise today that got my thinking about scrapping the whole thing. :( The rust belt strikes again along with the aid of a previous owner. My plan was to be working on finishing the rear bumper so I could scratch that off my list. I unbolt it and crawl under to find this... WHAT THE?!... WHY THE?!... I was trying to figure out why the frame would've been cut like this as it's nowhere near the internal plates for the hitch. Who knows... the problem now is that it's there and there are some major stress cracks going in just about every direction from it. To add salt to the wound, Minnesota has done just that... added SALT to the wound. Rust crept its way all the way back to the bumper mounts. The passenger side looked pretty good, which was surprising. So... the tank needed to come down to make room. Here's my fix... With that, and the first half of my day, taken care of it was time to move on the intended task at hand. 33s on Sunday... for sure.

Should've said so! I would've used a bigger envelope! :D

... but the right shade for stepping in cow $#!&! :rotf:

I think Jim might have a problem with sinking into the sand around his place with those. :laughin:

I think the real question here is what kind of beer drinkers Don and Cruiser really are... or did that get resolved back channel? :hmm:

Yup... got a mirror mounted, hung the new fenders, got the doors painted, I even painted and mounted the roof basket... not pictured, of course. :D

Finished a couple things today...

A while back I ran into the issue a while back that everything on the inside of my sending unit was fine but everything outside the tank was rusted and leaking. I went a little different route though and made up a new chassis for everything to mount on to. While this was a fun little experiment, it was also intended that one could use this same chassis to mount the internal parts of a Cherokee sender (as everything is pretty much the same inside of a Cherokee tank, IT JUST ALL MOUNTS IN MIRRORED from a Comanche causing interference problems) and thus have an easy replacement option. Stainless chassis in comparison to stock RENIX chassis: HO sending unit that actually got used (notice the J B Weld on the inside of the mounting flange): Cut: New chassis mounted to existing tab: Plumbed: View from inside a LWB tank to make sure everything sat just where it should without interference: What's really cool about it is that I used pipe couplers at the mounting flange so I could then use barb fittings both inside and out: This way, I could still have the 5/16" and 3/8" (or is it 1/4" and 5/16"?) for the send and return lines outside of the tank while everything inside is based off of 5/16" (or was it 1/4"?). Anyhow, this combination could also be used with a hacked off Cherokee unit that doesn't have a return line, they could both be plugged easily if one were to do a custom pump but still retain the factory gauge sender, or the chassis could also be easily modified to mount a '97+ Cherokee pump and sending unit if doing that swap to keep the Comanche tank unmodified... lots of possibilities with this setup. The only part of the wiring that had to be modified was the ground. Originally, it was soldered on to the flange but that's an easy fix. Also replacing the o-ring and locking ring for the rest of the wiring was a must: Under the truck: Sure, I needed to run longer hoses outside the tank but I guess I could've used 90* fittings. I ran the truck this was for about a while without any issues. It was then sent back home to it's previous owner who also isn't having any issues with it. Been a few years like this, anyhow. The plan a while back as to make up a few more chassis to sell... might still get around to that. :dunno:

Pete, have you ever looked over at ERIC'S XJ?... assuming you have what with his book. Lots of good information on his exo cage before he went all out on it.

Wow! Lots of good stuff happening over here! :thumbsup:

That's a Chrysler 8.25 out of a Cherokee. Looks like whoever put it under there didn't move the spring perches either putting lots of stress on the leaf spring bushings. :ack:

I would imagine that it would certainly aid in a "oh $#!&, I about to do a back-flip" type situation. :laughin:

Yeah... missed out on another.

I could, but just like anything else it'd be big and awkward to ship. :fs2:

And then there were two... talkin' about the doors. I started looking at the wiring for the wireless control for the winch today too. Got sidetracked trying to figure out why the horn doesn't work. Got sidetracked some more doing other odd jobs on it. Waiting for slightly warmer weather too... got a whole pile of stuff waiting to be painted.

The one on the right WAS a tank skid... then the Midwest took hold of it. Austin needed a tank skid before going out to Moab for Easter Jeep Safari. I sure hope we're in store for a big update on that. :redX:

For something as basic as that, why not just make your own?

It is April! Yes, I could've done some sort of temporary April fool's day something or other but instead let's just have a look at this month's MJOTM, shall we? That's really what this truck is all about... no nonsense. I've been following this build for a while now and there really haven't been all that many updates which is totally fine! The posts that are there, however, completely make up for it. I'm talkin' about keeping things business at hand!... and this guy knows how to do it... ●YEAR/MODEL 1989 Comanche Pioneer ●

ENGINE/PERFORMANCE 4.0 Renix 124,000 miles, Updated valve cover from Grand Cherokee. ●

DRIVETRAIN Jeep was originally 2wd, converted with aw4 transmission and np231 transfer case, high pinion dana 30 G2 4.10 gear set , front axle has jks mini-skids and I fitted a Rawk krawler truss to the dana 30. Ford 8.8 rear from Explorer 4.10 gear ratio with Spartan locker. Solid Diff covers front and rear. I upgraded stock gear selector with RADesigns rock shifter and Transmission control with Baja II shifter. ●

COOLING Open cooling system conversion, Transmission cooler from 1st Gen Explorer ●

ELECTRICAL/IGNITION Made new battery cables based on 5-90 designed cables with 2 gauge welding wire. Military battery terminals. Rebranded Deka AMG battery from Napa. ●

SUSPENSION/STEERING Front: Clayton Offroad Long arm, Rustys 4.5 inch springs, JKS ACOS spacers, JKS quicker disconnects, Bilstein 5100 long arm shocks, Iron Rock Offroad track bar. Rear: SOA conversion, Bilstein 5125 shocks, M.O.R.E. Offroad spring perch and shock mounts, 2wd Comanche springs. ●

INTERIOR All stock, removed the carpet and painted the floor. Upgraded to a Cd player out of a 2002 Lancer. ●

BRAKES Rear disc brakes. Replaced stock brake proportioning valve with one from a Jeep Grand Cherokee. Eliminated the load sensing valve from rear of Comanche ●

LIGHTING Rear Light on the bed side. ● EXTERIOR Dirtbound offroad manta ray bumper, Warn M8000 winch, Trail Gear Rock sliders, Jcr Offroad Diy rear bumper. ●

WHEELS/TIRES Eagle Alloy wheels, rear spacers, 33x10.5 15 Bfg Km2 Mud terrains FULL BUILD THREAD HERE ●

Remember That One Time?... Tell Us Your Best MJ Story It was 10 min in to my drive home from Alabama the night I bought it. I found out the the transfer case output seal was leaking like a sieve. A hour and half drive from Birmingham turned into a 3 hr drive cause I had to keep making stops to fill the case so I didn't run it dry. To go along with that issue the ride home was white knuckle because the rear shocks were only loosely U-BOLTED!! to the axle, and the truck didnt have a sway bar. It was a wild ride home. ●

CC is Awesome!... Why Do You Think So? Knowledgeable bunch of guys that don't mind to help out. Love reading the build threads. ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●● Very nice, sir. Very, very nice! Like I said already, I've followed your build from the beginning and I've enjoyed the whole ride. Seems like everything in it is there for a reason all the way down to that oddly placed rear facing light. I love it! Swell truck and congratulations! -Ben This post has been promoted to an article