comanche1989

That is a big concern of mine too, since I'll have to hold it at 1500-2000 rpm for the 20 minutes. I'm gonna see if having my buddy stand by the engine bay while I'm controlling rpm will let me have a greater chance of hearing if something is up.

Hi Everyone, I am in the final stages of my rebuild and H.O. swap for my 1989 Jeep Comanche. To finish the swap I need to get a down pipe bent at a local muffler shop. Can I drive the newly rebuilt engine there with open headers and not worry about cracking my valves or damaging the engine? The engine will be getting broken in at this time. It is only about 5 miles there, is it safe to drive it there? Any good advice would be appreciated! Thanks, Sam

Thanks for the helpful replies everyone, I am going to look at it on Saturday, and will let you all know what happens!

Hi All, I was wondering if anyone has had experience with early 70's Mercedes Diesels. I don't really know much about them, but it seems to be a good running car. Here is the description provided by the seller, "Up for sale is a very unique yellow Mercedes 220D with a history to match it's bright color. The car does have some rust areas however it runs and drives very well. This car is known as the w115 and only has 56hp in a 2.2 inline 4 cylinder diesel engine. (slow but reliable) It's very good on gas. (4 speed stick shift) The only thing power on this car is the antenna which still works. No power steering, power windows, AC, etc. This car gets looks from everyone on the highway. " Are these diesels reliable? It does have slight rust issues, is that a deal breaker? He wants 1200 dollars for it. I know this isn't a Jeep, but I figured someone might have some information to offer on the subject. Thanks!

A rear hitch isn't, but if you bought a new Cherokee with the off-road package and no hitch, the factory rear tow point was ONE hook, that was hung off ONE frame rail (don't remember which, because I took it off a long time ago). Please back you statement by showing that the off centered (even if factory offered) towing/recovery point is superior to a re-enforces center one that was suggested whether for the tower or the towee..... I have never seen a tow truck with a boom on the side.....or a front (or rear) mounted winch that suggests side mounting is preferred????? Do not argue on my thread, please.

You should re-look at the hitch.....it actually would end up being mounted high up than the conventional bottom mounted tow hooks would be......We have copied this exact model for our own use and are mounting it withe success on XJ's as well as my MJ....the cross bar adds so much strength...and i really have always been a fan of on center connection point on the front.....after all a rear hitch is not off centerd I have already decided against the hitch, the receiver would just be too low for me. On a stock mj, I need as much ground clearance as possible. I just need to know whether or not people think that the tow points on the site I posted are sturdy enough. Thank you for your help though!

Thank you for the replies, but I don't want a hitch, because it hangs down far too low for my liking. And I thought about just a basic set of brackets, but I really want the structural rigidity provided by a crossmember.

Hi All, I'm in the market for towhook brackets, and I stumbled across this. http://csloffroad.com/jeepxjtowpoints.aspx They look great to me, but I am worried that they will not tie in to the unibody enough. If anyone could offer their opinion or advice on the matter, it would be greatly appreciated! Sam

I have a Manche, and I live in Hampton. Right now I'm rebuilding the engine, and converting it to 4wd with a 3ish inch lift. Me and my buddy, who has a zj, have been looking for some trails around here. Just wanted to let you know I'm in the area.

This has gone from an educated discussion, to a full out internet bar fight. Comanche Club is supposed to be a place where, no matter what difference in opinions we have, we share the same love...Comanches. If I was a moderator, I would delete every single post that does not have information relevant to the subject. Every single one of you who engaged in arguing over a subject which was simply meant to invoke curiosity, should be absolutely ashamed of yourself. This forum is an amazing place, lets keep it that way. Show some respect, no matter what side you are on.

My 98 Cherokee had the same exact reading, swapped the sending unit with a mopar replacement, and its back to reading 35 psi at hot idle.

I sent them to the machine shop so they would clean them up and check the push rods for any curvature.

Did you keep yours carefully labeled during the rebuild? Or when you reassembled did you just put them in random spots? I'm just very hesitant, since this is my first rebuild.

Hi all, I am in the process of rebuilding my 1992 4.0 engine that had around ~240,000 miles on it. So far I have gotten the cylinders bored .30 over, oversized main and rod bearings, a master rebuild kit, new cam bearings pressed in, and a new head job. Everything I'm putting on the engine is brand new quality parts. The only things that I possibly would reuse would be the push rods and the rocker arms. This is where the problem comes up... when I disassembled the engine, I carefully labeled the push rods and rocker arms. When I got them back from the shop, they were all in one big bag. I am very hesitant to use them now, since I know that the push rods are essentially mated to a certain rocker arm. I have spent a fair amount of money on this engine rebuild, and the last thing I want is valvetrain noise in an essentially new engine. I have shopped around, and if need be I am going to purchase OE Hesco push rods and rocker arms. Would there be any risk in using the old push rods and rocker arms, since they are all mismatched? Any help would be appreciated, since this is my first time rebuilding an engine. Thanks again, Sam

thanks for the replies everyone, the machine shop gave me the wrong bearings apparently. I guess I'll have to sort it out on monday. Thanks again for the help!

Hi, I'm currently rebuilding my 1992 Comanche 4.0 engine. I'm at the stage of installing my main bearings into the block side saddles. I'm trying to install the side with the groove into the block saddle, like the instructions say, and my tabs on the bearings are not lining up with the grooves on the block. I'm attaching pictures to show my issue, and any advice would be welcome. Thanks!!

I grabbed my replacement female end belt from an early 90's Caddilac Deville. Makes my truck classy :yes:

I would boil the pitman arm to expand the metal, kind of like a harmonic balancer.

Grand Wagoneer with the 360 would fit the whole family :brows:

Check balljoints, U-Joints and suspension components?

A soa in the back with new shocks would lift the rear around 6 to 6.5 inches. For the front you could run 4.5 inch lift coils and two inch spacers, or 6.5 inch lift coils. With new shocks of course. If you're running 35s or 37s, you'll most likely want to upgrade the rear axle if you have a dana 35. IMHO even a comanche dana 44 would be stressed pretty good with 37s. With 6 inches of lift you would also probably have to trim and bumpstop to eliminate rubbing.

Drill each end of the cracks, so it doesn't continue cracking.

He has evidently never heard of a line wrench. USE THE PROPER TOOLS FOR THE JOB!!! A pair of vice grips and a regular open end wrench to remove the brake lines???? :nuts: As long as its his vehicle, I don't see why that's unacceptable to use. You just have to be careful. I could care less what this fool does to his own vehicle. But posting clueless "how-to" videos like this to newbs who don't know any better usually causes more harm than help. I respect your opinion, but I believe that if you use vice grips and a wrench carefully, you can take off the lines with no damage.

He has evidently never heard of a line wrench. USE THE PROPER TOOLS FOR THE JOB!!! A pair of vice grips and a regular open end wrench to remove the brake lines???? :nuts: As long as its his vehicle, I don't see why that's unacceptable to use. You just have to be careful.

I thought this video was a pretty informative explanation of the process