comanche1989

Does anyone have a electronic version of the shop manual that they can email to me? I'm about to start a full rebuild on my 89 Mjs engine. :doh:

When mine was doing that I replaced the egr valve and the tps. Idled like a champ! But of course go through the simpler and cheaper fixes before buying parts!

http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/3280968335.html

Thanks for all the advice man. I'm saving up for an engine lift-minimum wage jobs suck- (already have a stand) i think I'm going to start a build thread on it so i can get advice, this being my first ever engine teardown/rebuild. it will be a slow rebuild since i have school and a job, but hopefully ill have it cruisin by summer.

I'm in the process of learning but i don't think that going from changing the valve cover gasket to changing the rear main seal is a reasonable idea. I have fairly good mechanical knowledge, but i am a 17 year old working with limited tools. if i could of done it myself i would of. not everyone is as lucky to have as much knowledge as you. But thank you for the advice.

Does it have a rattle?

I know, but i thought heyyy, this is a jeep mechanic. Is that where i went wrong? was it the rear main seal that caused it?

He said that the oil level was fine. i also forgot to say that he changed the rear main seal and put in 5w-30. I usually put in 10w-30 amsoil. He said that the metal shaving from the main bearing diluted and made the oil really light so the oil pump couldnt draw oil and thats why i lost oil pressure.... sounds a little fishy. I think that when they did the rear main seal they could of accidently plugged on of the tiny oil passages? And it occurs at all loads right at about 1900 to 2000 rpm. Also i am currently using my cherokee as a daily driver, but i do occasionally start this up and drive it down the block. Normal oil pressure now..

Okay, so I have a 1989 Comanche 4.0 with the BA-10 5 speed. About a month ago i had the clutch and master cylinder replaced. Two days later, I was driving and lost all oil pressure. I pulled over, and had the truck towed to my local shop. He said that i had metal shavings in my oil. Coincidence or not? And now it makes a rattling sound when i start it up. What i really want to know is where the rattling is coming from. here's a video of my truck with the rattle. Any Help would be appreciated!!!

Thanks! :wrench:

This may sounds kind of stupid, but will a 1989 Cherokee heater core fit into a 1989 Comanche 4 liter? :roll:

Thanks! I'm missing a contact so i just jury rigged up a little something. Now it works perfectly!

Hi, I have an 89 Comanche and ive been trying to get my gauge lights to work. Out of the blue when i turned on my headlights the lights popped on. But when i turned on the headlights later that night they wouldnt turn on. Ive tried fuses, but i want to have an idea of possible causes before i dig into the problem more. :mad: Any theories?

True an XJ axle rear leaf to leaf is about 2.5-3" narrower. So you have to cut off the spring perches and weld on new ones. This is when you decided if you;re going to go spring over axle too... i bought new perches from ruffstuffspecialties but just about everyone sells a version. I went with them because i went soa and they had the longest perch to help prevent axle wrap. I have a little mig welding experience, would i be able to weld them? or should i bring it to a shop to weld?

Pete, thank you so much for all of your help. Its nice that an experienced guy is willing to help a newbie. :cheers: *edit* And I heard I might have to cut the leaf spring mount and reweld it if I get an xj axle?

I have access to a service garage that i can rent for cheap. Will swapping out the rear axle require bleeding the brakes? and will the truck be fuel efficient at 55-65 MPH? I commute to work on the highway.

so, I'm a highschool student, witha minimum wage job.... i need bang for my buck. i have a budget of about 500$ :oops:

My Truck is the BA-10 5 speed. Some help would be much appreciated. :wrench:

Hey, does anyone know of some cheap bolt-ons or build threads with good bolt-ons that can give the 4.0 a lil more kick? Help a speed addict out! :banana:

:drool: That seals it, I'm heading to Cali!

Thanks for everybodies advice! i managed to get the plugs free, and finally change the oil. :wrench:

Thanks for the help! i've heard this too, it that a possible way?

I've thought of filling through the shifter hole, but it seems like such a pain. But if i strip one of these plugs, i guess that is what i'll have to do. :wall: It's really not as hard as you'd think; remove the center console, remove the floorpan boot; take a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench, zip off the 3 bolts holding the shifter plate on...make sure it's in neutral, pull up and you're golden. Just be careful not to overfill. :thumbsup: Also, while the shifter is out; I'd give all the contact points a good greasing..you'll see what I mean when you disassemble if you never have. So assembly is just the same process reversed?

I've thought of filling through the shifter hole, but it seems like such a pain. But if i strip one of these plugs, i guess that is what i'll have to do. :wall:

So its safe to heat with the transmission on the truck? I wouldn't. The BA 10/5 case is aluminum. Aluminum has a very low melting point. Keep soaking the plug with Kroil. Then take a small ball pein hammer and tap the face of the plug a few times. Don't hit it too hard -- you aren't trying to smash it out of the case, just tap enough to (maybe) loosen up whatever corrosion has formed. Once you get the plug out, put teflon tape or anti-seize on the threads. Alright, thanks. Heating is always my last resort, but I'm starting to get desperate. :wall: Teflon tape won't be negatively affected by the heat of the transmission? And should i keep the original plugs, or replace them with some generic bolt head plug?