Zebvance

No I have not check the temp gauge or sender, and I have never let it get hot enough to boil over before turning it off. The I have new exhaust, header back. What's the easiest way to test the sender and gauge?

No I have not because it has not shown any signs of a blown head gasket. Where an I get that done and how much would it cost?

I have a 1988 renix mj with a 4.0, 103K with the closed loop system that was from Canada. It started to over heat on my in the city a month or so ago in the peak of summer about a month ago. I live in south texas so temps get up to 100-110 all summer. I wanted to eliminate all possibilities so I started to replace the WHOLE cooling system. One thing to mention. This truck did not come with ac from the factory and it did not come with the Electric fan from the factory also. Items Freshly installed: New zj Fan Clutch New CFS 3 row radiator new Flow Kooler water pump New High flow thermostat New themostat housing New upper and lower radiator hoses New Fan Shroud New Serp Belt. New sealed Overflow Tank New coolant I got it all hooked up and drove it for a bout 20 miles on the highway and a little in town and it did fine. Then I parked it and let it Idle. And this is what it did. Outside Temperature : 75 degrees Fahrenheit Time : 8:45 PM don't have a picture of when I parked it but it was sitting at the normal mark. Time : 9:05 pm Time elapsed : 20 mins Time: 9:15 pm Time elapsed : 30 mins Time : 9:25 pm Time elapsed : 40 mins Time : 9:35 pm Time elapsed : 50 mins Time : 9:45 pm Time elapsed : 60 mins I will say the temps do not climb nearly as fast as it did before I replaced everything but then again it was around 85-90 degrees when I did. Let me also note that like I said the truck was made in Canada that's why the temperatures are in Celsius. However I know the truck has been in Texas for at leased the last 10 years. Lastly, The Truck does not show any signs of head gasket failure. exhaust is VERY clean, no smoke, no water or coolant coming out of it, and it does not burn it. Please help me and tell me what to do now!!!!!

ok thanks guys!

how do I check that?

the front axle on that model is called a TTB axle. I like to think of it as a scissor axle haha. It has a pivot point in the middle and is a Pain in the @$$ to work on, it is far from a bolt on for you.... I would say it is not worth time, and next to impossible to make the swap. you would need to make a radius arm set up and make a center axle mount under the engine. which to me would seem next to impossible with mj unibody....

oh yea forgot to mention, the PO that did the 4x4 swap on my MJ, and pulled the axles from a xj, not sure which year though. However I do have the numbers from the front axle tag if that helps.....

My brother Has a 2007 jk unlimited and he just bought a dana 44 axle housing from a Rubicon to replace his dana 30. My question is are the upper and lower control arm mounts and what not in the same place and will it bolt up? also is it worth the swap? Is it a up grade from my dana 30? what the spline count on mine vs his? Also if I don't want it he asked me what He could sell it for? any ideas?

I am hooking up a B&M Trans temp gauge and a after market trans cooler. It says to hook up one wire to illumination/ dashboard lights but I have not Idea which wire to splice into. Also It says to run one wire to the ignition wire, once again I have no idea where this is located. Sow help would be greatly appreciated! The vehicle is a 1988 Comanche 4.0 4x4 auto shortbed. Below is a picture of the wiring diagram.

I plan on doing their 6.5 long arm on my mj. I just wanted the front part also. What did they quote you out for the front part and which shocks did you chose and did you upgrade to the quick disconnects?

forgot to mention, Mine also didn't come with additional electric fan since it was a non ac model. so I just got a new stock 97+ electric fan to run in addition to the upgraded radiator and clutch. I'm going to run it on a switch. Oh for got to mention also putting in a Flex-a-lite Heavy duty trans cooler and B&M trans temp gauge and some datsun 280z hood louvers. I really hope I won have over heating problems after all of this.

so I was having some overheating problems and I am replacing my whole cooling system. I put on a high flow 195 degree thermostat, flowkoolor water pump and am in he middle of installing a CFS 3 row radiator and the HD fan clutch from NAPA. I just put the clutch and radiator in for a test fit and I have about 3/8th of a inch of clearance. Should I be worried about this? I still have not in stalled the new fan shroud either. here are some pictures tell me what yall think. Also I just installed Iron man 4x4 motor mounts and they are SOLID the engine doesn't move around like it does with stock motor mounts. the vehicle is a 1988 comanche 4.0 4x4 short bed here are some pictures

So Next I noticed the steering wheel felt like it was about to fall off, shaking around and very loose, did some research and noticed it is a common problem with these year model jeeps. I had to tear everything apart and tighten up four screws that had backed out around the ball joint? of the tilt wheel assembly. This took some time and a few time of putting it back together and taking it back apart to get right. Finally got it all back together and everything works great but now a month or so after the horn is intermittent and I have the key get suck in the on position twice randomly. Haven't had time to check it out yet though. This little guy just fell out when I was pulling everything apart. I looked it up to be the key buzzer... Well since it never worked to begin with I "forgot" to put it back in after I almost blew my brains out messing with it for a hour.... These are all the pictures I have, I forgot to take some of the actual Business area where the problem was. But all I can say is I don't want to have to do this again.....

Yup you will have to move the purches

Not to thread jack but I have buckets in my mj. how can I tell if they were stock or not...

Welcome!!!

Haha sorry I'm at school up here I'm originally from matagorda,tx

yes, that could be the use but also if your piston rings are gone it also causes pressures to go up and will start making gaskets fail. correct me if I am wrong guys...

I live right down the road from you and all I can tell you is pressure was the undercarriage of your truck EVERY time you get on and off the beach. I have buddies that didn't take care of there truck after we would all go fishing and stuff. One of them has a 2006 z71 and his whole frame looks like a peice of ply wood does after it has been sitting out side for a year and all the layers are seperating. He also has holes straight through his bed the size of a soft ball. I would spray the undercarriage with a good rust ressistant coating and go back over it once a year, and like I said befor stay on top of spraying the vehicle off really good after the beach.

It is a disease: Orifice Puckeritis. I payed a guy to replace my valve cover gasket and both hoses out of the top of the valve cover when I first noticed I had blow by, the guy didn't see that I had bought a new back hose and orfice, so he didn't put it on , but he said he cleaned it when he pulled the VC off. Now if he did actually do that I don't know. But I still had blow by bad, it seemed as if it might have even gotten worst after I got it back. I didn't want to pull the valve cover back off to replace that hose because I put a $50 felpro VC gasket on it and I didn't want to have to by a new one, so I just went and got a oil catch can for cheap on e bay and just hooked it up, I haven't had a chance to see if it's doing its purpose yet because I have not drove the mj cause I'm still in the middle of replacing the radiator right now but I hope it works. The truck has 101,000 miles on it and runs great though, it does not burn oil at all and exhaust is clear as could be, to me it shows no signs of worn rings but I can't confirm 100% without doing a compression test on each cylinder, which I haven't done yet.

Decided after the motor mount and header install that I needed a tool box so I went out and bought a birthday present to myself!!!!

Got it thanks! Will I need the fittings at the trans, or can I reuse old ones. Also how many are there? 2?

alright guys so I am replacing the whole cooling system and the trans lines are leaking because the mj has been laid on its side, the upper control arm was shoved in the metal lines and it have pinched the, so now I'm getting all new lines. I thought I bought all i need but apparently I just bought both parts of the inlet tubes.... now I need the WHOLE return line the the trans..... PLEASE HELP ME FIND THE PART! thanks, Zeb

well here is the cooler mount on the radiator, took all day to find fittings and I still do not have all of them....

It's big! I looked at a trans cooler that Auto Zone in my area keeps in stock, and it was tiny -- about 2-1/2 inches high and I'd guess not more than 6 inches long. It's a 2-row, and smaller than OEM. The OEM cooler in my wife's XJ is a 4-row (yours is a 6-row), about 4 or maybe 5 inches high and 15 inches long. I don't see much need to go bigger than that, considering that 90% or more of the XJs and MJs ever built with automatics had NO external tranny cooler. mine is 20 inches X 8 inches. I think I went over board but I just hope it doesnt cool it to much.....