Zebvance

SO I pickets up a flex a lite trans cooler and B&M trans temp gauge, so now my question is whats the best way to hook it up? Should I hook it up inline with the radiator or should I bypass the radiator completely? I am also hooking up a brand new cfs 3 row all metal radiator and a HD fan clutch at the same time. The vehicle is a 88 Comanche with the 4.0, 4x4, non ac here is the cooler. It the cooler to big and overkill?

Do you have videos?

more to mention, not documented was the install of the new water pump, high flow thermostat, new thermostat housing, new valve cove gasket, new front u joints, new front slip yolk, new vacuum harness, new air filter, coolant flush.

Went to the junk yard and found a grill for cheap. not sure if I'm going to use it yet....

ok guys, so I got the mj back together and my brother surprised me with this for my birthday, a flexalte transmission cooler and B&M trans temp gauge.

No updates or work on the mj today because other things became more important....... Such as meat and beer! Sunday funday anyone?

enough for tonight I will add more tomorrow, I am still not caught up to the current Progress.....

Here it is after I put the High flow cat and the magnaflow muffler at 2.5 inches, to tell you the truth I am disappointed, I wanted it louder and I can barley hear it in the cab.....

And here is a video of it running with the straight pacesetter header....

Next was the 703 4 port injectors injectors I got from Precision auto performance.com. and then the new fuel pressure regulator.....

Actually I just noticed in that last picture you can see the plug I made....

So with the pacesetter Header I had to plug the EGR and I did it by making a plate for it on the intake, also the is a tube that runs from the bottom of the intake to the old manifold I made a plug for that bud did not get pictures.

So here were my problems withe the pace setter header hardware...... It sucks all of the "step washers were off set and did not fit right, so I had to special order a new set of the and then had to hand grind them to fit.....

Forgot to mention I have a 4.5 inch lift with a trac bar drop bracket and rough country adjustable trac bar. Also this Jeep is a Toy and gets about 1000-2000 miles put on it year. I also feel like the OTK is more work than I want to get into right now, with the modifications needed, Also I don't have access to all the tools I would need to do the OTK right now.

So I have a 1988 jeep comanche 4x4,4.0. the tie rods need replacing and I need a alignment. I want to get rid of the "Y" steering set up and I'm looking at 1 ton steering upgrades, So far I have came across Seriousoffroad.com's set up and JCR's. they both look very similar to me. Whats the different between the two. I do not want to run the over the knuckle set up. Just the regular one will work for me. I do see that both kits require reaming the knuckles and pitman arm. How much of a task is this. I am also concerned with diff cover clearance, I plan on running a aftermarket on in the future but I don't know which on will clear tie rod or not. Please give input if you have had experience with this set up and in you have good insight on my plans, or if you know of other options besides the ones listed for a 1 ton steering upgrade. And last both kits are very expensive, I am prepared to drop some cash but would like to save as much as I can. Here is serious off roads set up. http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.com/i ... s_id=89921 and here is JCR's http://www.jcroffroad.com/mm5/merchant. ... Code=1TNST

Sounds like they may have have you the radiator for a 4.0 inline 6. Instead of the one you need for your 4 banger.

Thanks, there is going to be a update when I get back into town after this weekend

Thanks!!! :cheers:

Give me some time, first things first to get it mechanically sound.

There is more to come but I am taking a break for now. Hint Hint... 703 injectors, cfs radiator..... plus more

Test fit for the header!

Here is the 4.0 after the motor mounts are done and we are ready to put the header on.

Here is the new motor mounts in place.

After installing the Driver mount I will tell you on the renix engine it is not a direct bolt on you will have to modify the driver bracket. you will need a 5 inch cut off disk or grinding disk on a cut off wheel, to remove the access metal that keeps the Iron man mounts from sliding in. It is quite a task but I promise you once it is done it is time and money well spent!

Here is the old motor mounts compared to the new