ftpiercecracker1

Thanks for the tip. I have both my engine bay harness and cab harness totally gutted and splayed open. I'm removing all unnecessary circuits and fixing lame factory connections. Thus far every single wire/plug/connection I've traced has been accurate, as far as color and location, but it does lack some wire paths that just leave you guessing.

More baffling electrical. Link to diagram http://jeep.zerok.ru/index.php?page=196 The yellow wire is energized when the key is turned to run. This wire triggers the fuel pump relay but also supplies power to the O2 heater relay. The O2 heater relay is wired such that when the relay is energized power is cut to the O2 heater. From what I am seeing both the yellow wire and the trigger wire for the O2 relay are energized simultaneously. Meaning the O2 is never heated. The only thing I can think of is the ground wire for the O2 relay, which does go directly to the ECU, must be timed/controlled by the ECU. Did I just solve my own question?

So it just grounds out any residual back current and shouldn't mess with its configuration. Here's another question related to relays. The starter relay, why is it needed? My starter, as most starters I've seen have a piggy back solenoid directly attached which does the job of the "starter relay" pic attached. The only time the relay is energized is when you are trying to start the engine, meaning it is denergized in all other positions, other wise the starter would be spinning with the key in any position except for off. Having a second relay that sends power to specifically trigger the starter solenoid, which is what actually connects the starter directly to B+, seems redundant. Why not have the ignition wire that is energized with the key in start position run directly to the starter solenoid?

Is this a "change over" relay? If so why and how does it function? If not why does it have 5 wires? It was my understanding that a five wire relay is used so that when the relay is energized a particular device is powered and when the relay is denergized another device is powered.

Found a great resource. Contains pretty much everything in a FSM. http://jeep-manual.ru/index.php?page=105 Scroll down.

I thought the chime module was a blue box? Which one is the wiper breaker? What about the extra big silver fuse on the bottom of your picture?

Just trying to verify what each slot is/was for. Reading from top to bottom, left to right. Rear wiper Accessory Radio Power accessory Fog light and ? Blower motor Clock ABS ignition Turn signal brake light Dome Battery? Headlight delay Hazard stop brake lights ABS battery? Power antenna Ignition? Running lights TCU power? Gauges hazard ??? Instrument backlight Places marked with a star. Hazard blinker thingy Turn signal blinker thingy ??? Some kind of blade fuse.

This. Legion is right, 2400-3k will get you a decent MJ almost anywhere. Anything can be fixed with unlimited money, but alas I lent my money printer to the FEDS and they refuse to return it.

Whaaaaaaaaat?? But . . . Why? Emissions? don't you want your intake charge to be a cold as possible? I imagine the intake must have passages that mate up with the cylinder head then.

Thanks driver, but I still don't understand . The sender in the head, blue arrow, measures coolant temp. Right? There is no coolant in the intake, so both of the sensors circled in red must be measuring air temp. But what are they connected to? What I mean is, one presumably provides info for the ECU, but what about the other. And which one is which? Thanks, Sorry, didnt mean to highkack your thread OP.

I'm a bit confused. Are you looking for air or coolant temperature sensor? There are three coolant related "sensors" in the renix engine bay. The one in the driver side of the block half way down is the actual sensor that delivers info to the ECU, it has two wires. The one at the very far back of the cylinder head on the drivers side is a sender that connects to the gauge, it is a single wire Then there is a thermal switch on the lower drivers side of the radiator. It is two wires and energizes the cooling fan relay if temp exceeds 230° F. In the pictures below the blue arrow is pointing at the temperature SENDER. What I'm confused about are the items circled in red. Are both of these IAT sensors? (Intake air temperature) Is one possibly for the EGR and the other for the ECU?

Ah, ok that makes sense.

So I realized there's some writing on the back of this device I took a picture of it. It seems the job of this device is to step in and force the AC compressor to engage in order to maintain a set air temperature, hence the two adjustment screws, regardless of line pressure. This makes me curious, could I potentially put in a potentiometer in place of this device and a have adjustable climate control? Nevermind that would not work, because this device controls two aspects of the compressor cut in and cut out. A single point of adjustment would mean the compressor would be constantly kicking on and off trying to maintain a very specific pressure.

I'm the process of stripping down all electrical in my truck to the bare minimum, save a few Creature Comforts such as the A/C. But I want to know if and why this is neccessary for the A/C to function. I understand this is the thermostat/rheostat? for the A/C, but why does it need this? I figured the AC simply operates off the hi/low pressure switch on the dryer. Why does it need this. Does it need this? Can I delete it without negatively affecting A/C performance?

I would like to second this. I have a 1/2" and combo 1/4"/3/8" drive extendable ratchets and they are bad_ass.

I never said it was crap, but thanks for the reassurance anyway. Do you have any knowledge regarding the question at hand? FPC

Current bearing is a NSK 6203DU2, 100% Chineseium. I want to be able to use what I can get from an auto parts store, but will spend a little more for a better bearing if available, again, only if I can get it from the same place. I.E. I'm not special ordering anything. I agree 100% the bearing is the failure point. My HB dia is 184mm/7.25in and the current pulley is 89mm/3.5in dia. If I can find and safely reduce to a 76mm/3in or better a 63.5mm/2.5in that is what I need to do. I will check on the bearing details and see what I find.

Just like the title says. Does anybody know a reasonalbe rpm limit for idler pulleys? Need to downsize a pulley and want to make sure I'm not pushing the limit. Max crank rpm will be 3,500 on a 7in (dia) HB. Idler pulley maybe as small as 2.5 (dia) which at 3500rpm corresponds to 9,800 rpm.

Is there some reason why they cannot provide more anesthesia to limit the pain?

How can tool truck guys get away with not warranting tools? If you report them to corporate shouldn't they cut them off?

Saw this on the way home from work, same area as the blue comanche. LOTS of money flows through this area.

You keep that kinda talk up and I might just show up at your house with a loaded flat bed. I would love for another CC member to have her rather than some Joe Shmoe off craigslist.

Holy sh*t. . . $8200?! I've got mine listed for $1,500, and it's 4wd and 5spd. Although I must admit it is in far worse physical condition than the one above.

Have a look underneath both driver and passenger side floor boards for rust. These trucks are notorious for rusted out floor boards.

Saw this guy on the way home from work. Made a hard U turn to go back and inspect. Bench seat, automatic on the column, 2 wheel drive, Dana 35. Real clean interior. Aftermarket tube bumper.