man-coche

These have been all over Mexico and Guatemala until 2012 Also some custom rigs

This is the correct flare. It looks like a prerunner flare but would work. These have been on here before but here is the site. http://www.hannemannfiberglass.com/custom.asp?id=457567&page=109 Good example.

1986 Jeep Comanche XLS 4X4 LWB. Built: Aug/85 Toledo Ohio PowerPlant: 2.5L Electronic Fuel Injected Transmission: AX5 Manual Gearbox Transfer Case: T5 Drive Axles: front D35 Rear D44 http://comancheclub.com/topic/52032-well-selling-my-86-xls-st-louis/ Sold I was the third owner of this rare truck. It is in original condition with most factory options. Once had original roll bar with bolts plates and brackets still in the bed, also once had snap on bed cover, ofcourse gone but snaps left, has all factory skid plates under the truck and a factory undercoat, hence little surface rust overall.

In that case, you might consider and led light strip on your tail gate. To your success

Why not wire up your cargo light to function as a third brake light? That is if you have a cargo light. Found a write up on how on another forum. http://www.f150online.com/forums/pre-1997-models/407553-led-third-brake-light.html Just as a suggestion... Or Could go this route found here, http://comancheclub.com/topic/41830-back-of-cab-light/

Found this on the interwebs also.

Why not just install one of these from foreign suv or pickup?

Here is an older idea I'm looking at.

Yeah, with a key you can feel the mechanism turn, but it's like it doesn't turn enough to unlock the door. I too thought it was a freezing issue. But after it happened at 60 degrees temp outside and monkeied with it both inside with the button and outside with the key, something gave way and the key turned like a 1/4 turn more and it unlocked.

Found a diesel engine and transmission o CL in St Louis. The ad says Isuzu but the NPR trucks out of central and south America only used Mitsubishi motors. Light powerful motors used in ton and quater to 3ton trucks. http://stlouis.craigslist.org/pts/5871769458.html

Yes, yes, yes, very appropriate. Now would love to see the pics she took posted here and anywhere else that would make an impact with that note. Peace...

What about this :clapping:

:hijack: :hijack: :hijack: :shake:

:hijack:

I would love to make a trade. Only problem my truck and I are in Guatemala C.A :(

Yes :thumbsup:

Can anyone tell me what if any other rear windows from any other trucks will fit well with little adaptation modifications to the cab or much extra rubber. :wrench: I have seen some from S10's and Rangers that could work, but with either an extra aluminum frame or an rubber boot. But i thought I would get some in put before $$$.

Although the air presure changes may not be the resulting factor, :brows: I know and have seen it is a contributing factor. I mean when you're going down a level hwy and you see in your rearview mirror your back window flexing in and out only being held by the welt and sylicone. :eek: I mean when I am in the higher altitudes the exsiting cracks are alittle wider open than when I came from the city. :shake: :wrench: But I am on the repaire, as you are right on with drilling a hole at the end of the crack to stop it from spreading. And yes the roads here are mainly coble stone type and uneven blacktop at times in the city, but good and flate for the most part on the hwys, yet like wheeling offroad everywhere eise.

Yeah, that is a thought of mine also. :help: Having problems now and again with my knees. And with heavy traffic at times a stick although fun can be a pain. Have a number of options here, :wrench: just need to know what all would be needed for the swap.

I just done a search for cab cracks when I saw what I have, and found this post. I have then on my short bed 89 pioneer. They are from the window courners out and are caused by presure. I live about 10,800ft in the highlands of Guatemala, and the air presuse changes every time I go to the Capital. I have found the stress factor of air presure is about 3 times as much here in the highlands and all metal wood, and plastic expands. I don't know about any of the others that have these cracks, but this is what I have found to be the cause with mine.

Parts are available as far as cherokees. :thumbsup: I just found an ad on an clasified site here localy of a guy who has a veriety of 91 comanche parts. He may become a scorce the more I find to restore on my pioneer.

Well have come to find out that the clutch master cylinder is not the correct size. Rather it is not correct at all. :( I got to looking and it seems small in comparison to my 90 Cherokee. Low and behold it is smaller. What is adapted on the manche is 5/8 and it should be 3/4. The previous owner when putting on a new clutch put a master cylinder for some Japanese pickup that is not as big around nor as long to connect correctly through the slave and pedal assembly. :doh:

VIN: 1JTFT36L8KL427982 1989 Jeep Comanche Pioneer. Motor: 4.0L I6, Transmission: Peugeot BA10-5 5spd 2WD SWB 103330 MILES BUILT: 8/89 CURRENTLY LOCATED GUATEMALA CENTRAL AMERICA I AM THE SECOND OWNER ORIGINAL OWNER BOUNGHT NEW THEN BROUGHT AND REGISTERED IN GUATEMALA JAN 1990 PHOTOS:

Hey thanks for the input posts, and pm's. :thumbsup: I have checked the clutch master cylinder, and it is new full and dry all round. Next??? ;) Pedel doesn't seen sloppy, up and down like it works, :( but hardly goes in to gear all the way to the floor.

:thumbsup: Thanks for the comments and kudos. On the way home after picking up this little gem :roll: the clutch seemed to go out or :dunno: something it was very hard shifting gears. I had to doble clutch and speed shift on mountain roads. What an adventure unexpected. :wrench: Maybe some can give me an idea what to look at, becuase the clutch was suposed recently installed.