acfortier

Thinking about picking up a repair manual... @89 MJ do you happen to have one? Is this the right one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/401502740721

Nice! I'll def. take the radio, all set on the wheels for now. I may have to make a trip to this JY, if you don't mind sharing--there are probably other odds and ends that I'll need as I go along. Took the time to pressure wash the grime off of it, and it looked pretty good. Actually polished the hood and it started to shine nicely and felt smooth. I unfortunately didn't snag any pictures, but I'll get some next time. Buyer mistake #1 -- not checking the engine oil. I'm actually surprised it evaded myself and my stepdad, it's usually the first thing we check. Well, lo and behold, there's no dipstick. There's just a plug in where the dipstick is supposed to go. Sourcing one seems to be a PITA, so I may have to get crafty. You'd think that there would be enough aftermarket for the CJs that are still on the road with the 258 in them, but I guess not. Crown had a part # but it seems to be discontinued. Also, coolant overflow was empty--pulled the radiator cap and didn't see any fluid. So, started it up and poured a tiny bit in the radiator until it was full. However, I think I've got a stuck closed thermostat--radiator stayed ice cold while the bypass was hot. Temp gauge on the cluster was at the top end of the green section near H, so that'll have to be replaced. But, no fluid was leaking out, so that's a plus. There's a OMIX 4.2L coolant kit that has a couple of hoses, clamps and a t-stat that I may try to use--the upper radiator hose is some generic flex piece. Checked all of the lights, everything works. Someone, at one point, hacked up the headlight bezels to put in these offroad lights, and did a horrible job. I think there's a backing piece that I'll need to snag.

Well, getting wheels refinished is an outrageously expensive business. Quotes in my area are anywhere from $200-$250 per wheel. There seems to be a company in PA that will do it for $165/wheel, but would have to ship them. While searching around, I found 3 refurbished ones online for $160/ea shipped. Decided to bite the bullet (since I know I wouldn't be happy with the current set I bought). Still need to either buy a 4th or get one of these ones I already have refurbed. It seems that either way, it'll be the same price. Also got a quote for $1500 for the rebuilt tranny, waiting on others to get back to me. Hard pass... bought the ATSG manual from Amazon to see if it's something I want to tackle on my own.

Picked up the set of rims, they're going to need to be refinished, badly. Also, didn't have center caps, so went and tried to hunt down some of the OEM ones for them. $40 a pop... sigh. Also bought some new lug nuts for this as well. I'll be updating my money spent totals in the first post.

I'm picking up a set for $175 today, assuming they aren't in extremely poor condition. If I end up passing on the set, I'll let you know. Thanks again for snagging the radio.

Worcester. Any idea how much they want? Billerica isn't too far. These wheels look pretty close to what used to come stock, and they were really the only decent set available on FB. I stumbled across this site, and I might have to give them a call to see if they have any of those sets. Worth a shot, and the price isn't too steep. https://www.wheelcollision.com/store/AMC-EAGLE.htm?fbclid=IwAR1YNIdLhzagsDGs6hNTgWoVyy0wcNkGujrE6syqq2hfoXxsENNtXxWSaeI

Thanks, that'll be helpful--I'll probably end up dropping it off to an exhaust shop to put on something custom anyways, but can't hurt. Trying to figure out what I want to do about wheels. I found a set of 16" alloys from a ZJ TSi which look kinda neat, and I think they'd look good on the Eagle. Here's a picture from Google of the rims: Thinking of wrapping them with some General Grabber AT/X in 215/70R16. The set I found on FB has them wrapped in Hankook 235/70R16, which is good enough to get me rolling. $200 for the set... But it's a decent drive. I'll probably end up snagging them. The windshield wipers were extremely beat, so I purchased some Dorman replacements for a later model Cherokee/Grand Cherokee in hopes that they'll fit (I think they'll be find). Fronts - 42586 Rear - 42587

Forgot to add, it currently needs an exhaust. It’s cut off right now next to the transfer case, on the drivers side, and sounds pretty mean. But I think it’s supposed to come down the passenger side?

Dang, that’s too bad! Definitely! LMK what you find

Following this thread: I picked up an '86 AMC Eagle for $1000. VIN is 2CCCK3859GB705482 (not sure if a build sheet is possible for this? @eaglescout526), and has 129,695 on the clock. Fairly clean for an old vehicle that's been in MA it's whole life, but def. needs some love. 4.2L/258 cu. in. I6 3-spd TF998 Select Drive 2WD/4WD maybe NP128 (open diff.)? Unclear if all '86 were open diffs Power locks/windows that don't work Missing radio, custom/oversized speakers--someone used Romex to power a sub in the trunk, lol Front headlight bezels were chopped up to allow for those fog lights (have extras in the back) Air ride shocks (who knows if they even work/hold?) Just really looking to "restore" it to a daily driving condition, and not much else to it. Maybe lift, but probably keep it stock for now. PO was nice enough to give me 6 (!!) extra doors in case I want to swap over to crank windows. I'm hoping I can fix up the electrics for the power windows/locks. I've already got a laundry to-do list: Immediate/required for inspection (yay MA) and drivability: * Tires. Currently sitting on extremely dry rotted ones. I think they're 225/75R15s. Stock size is 195/75R15, which they don't make anymore. Optional size was 215/65R15, not much in that size either. Thinking of either picking up a set of turbines (if I can find them local, shouldn't be too hard) and doing 215/75R15 size, which gives me some all-terrain options and should fit nicely without a lift/spacers. * Will need new wipers. Not sure if there's a conversion to a newer style hook rather than the pin. * Have even checked any of the lights/markers. Hopefully they're all in working condition. * Transmission needs a rebuild. Had to nearly floor it to get it to move slightly, and that was after shifting from N to D just to get it to engage. It was also leaking like a sieve when we checked it out the first time, so not sure what's up with that. Maybe I'll do it by myself... Maybe not. * From the previous thread, needs rockers + one of the leaf spring shackles replaced. Not going to be easy or cheap. Luckily I sourced rockers from http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/amc.html for $69 each + $40 shipping, which isn't bad at all. * Needs a serious cleaning. You can probably smell it through the pictures * A light pressure wash and a buff, and this thing would probably look pretty good. Love the brown color. * 4WD definitely doesn't work--the vacuum lines are wrapped up and sitting on top of the A/C compressor currently. Couldn't see where they were supposed to go while checking it out underneath without jacking it up, but shouldn't be hard to find. That's about all for now! Price list: Purchase - $1000 Wiper arms - $79.94 Wheels - $175 Wheel center caps (4) + lug nuts - $175.66 (4) refurb'd wheels - $708.06 Repair manual - $89.89 Tax, title, reg. - $197.50 Replacement rockers - $190 A999/32RH from '92 YJ - Free! Trans filter - $9.21 Trans overhaul kit (seals) - $49.11 Rear main, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket - $72.05 NP128 from JY - $150 6AN lines for trans cooler - $67.01 U-joints, radiator hoses, oil drain plug, TC seals, speedo cable - $150.02 Mopar 4269956AB tranny seal - $26.13 Replacement headlamp buckets - $155 215/65R16 General Grabber A/TX - $697 - $100 rebate = $597 Oil dipstick tube - $80.03 CRT Performance W1218 HEI distributor for Jeep 258 with Packard 8mm wires - $91.65 Trans fluid, NSS pigtail - $148.47 NSS, starter - $153.20 Headlights - $39.84 Cluster - $85 Headlights, plugs, radiator flush - $84.09 RF parking light lens - $43 ------------------------------------- Total: $4616.85

Well, he took the $1000 offer. Said he had it listed at $2200 to avoid people who would just part it out and scrap it. Wants to see it up and running again. Still haven't made a final decision, but with the availability of rockers and got a line on a welder who would be able to fix something up for the leaf spring, I think we may do it...

@89 MJ Figured I'd tag you since I found a source for reproduction steel rocker panels from this company: www.showcars-bodyparts.com 2 door or 4 door - $69.00 USD each + $40.00 USD shipping (one or pair) Going to give the owner a call today to see if he'll budge on price.

I’m still debating. Gave a call to a company based in Canada that supposedly has rocker panels, but the woman I spoke to on the phone said that they’d have to be outsourced, so they may not still make them. You’d think that there are plenty of TF998/904/999/727s in the wild that a rebuild for them would be fairly common knowledge. I’m savvy enough that I could do one if I have instructions to follow. Should be able to find a booklet/YouTube it. Rust doesn’t scare me all that much anymore. I’ve definitely owned cars that were a lot worse than the Eagle (found that out after I bought them, but hey…). It’s definitely repairable—it just comes down to how much money do I want to throw at it. Like @89 MJ mentioned, if I can keep my costs around $4k for it to be drivable (obv. not showroom) I think that makes sense. At this point, I feel like throwing a $1k offer at him but don’t want to insult him…

$900 for a rebuild seems high, but I haven’t checked prices in years. Junkyard ones are $300-$400 but may end me up in the same boat. I think that makes sense for fixing the frame, rocker and leaf spring mounts. $2200 seems a bit high for the condition this one is in, but don’t want to low ball the guy either. There is a company in Canada that seemingly makes aftermarket rockers for the 2 dr, which should work for the 4 dr if I get 2 per side. Although no idea if they’re still in business, website is fairly old. I’ll have to give them a call.

Up to $500 now... hard pass.

Here’s a few pictures of the trouble area.

Thanks for the pictures. Those spots weren't bad, for the most part, the frame was solid. Some rot happening near the front frame wheel wells, but nothing that scares me. Engine sounded good, looks like the vacuum lines from the 4WD switch weren't connected and just coiled in the engine bay. Not sure where they go, but that's easy enough to fix. Tranny and engine both leak like a sieve. No exhaust, it's cut off and routed on the driver side, but I feel like it should have gone down the passenger side. Electric windows didn't work, but made noise when you clicked the switch, so hopefully that isn't major. Lots of extra parts. Was surprised that the A/C kicked on and started to blow cool air. The real issue is the driver's side rocker panel (from about halfway) to the rear leaf spring shackle was toast. One good bump and the rear leaf spring would have blasted up to the floor. Not really sure how to tackle that to repair it, not finding too many resources online about it. I'm not a fabricator, so don't have the ability to fix it myself, would have to probably bring it somewhere.

Going to give them a call today and see if they're around Sunday to check it out more.

Was on my way to a golf course this morning and came across a 1986 AMC Eagle 4 door wagon with a for sale sign. Looks like it's been in MA it's whole life, rust wasn't too terrible (nothing visible, but owner said there was rot under one of the plastic rocker pieces?). Didn't have a price, only a phone number, which we called after our round. I wasn't smart enough to take any pictures, sigh. 129,xxx on the odometer, 3-spd auto. Claims engine runs well, potentially an aftermarket intake on it? Said the A904 needed to be rebuilt probably, trans has been slipping. Needs tires, missing hubcaps, radio. Had a bunch of extra parts in the back. Overall, wasn't terrible, but not in the best of shape. I guess it's been sitting since 2018 or so, when it was last registered. Was asking $2200. I'm pretty sure it's been sitting there for awhile, the marker on the for sale sign was faded. I'm thinking of offering $1500, but not sure if I want to really get into another project. But it's pretty solid, and going to be one of those fairly rare cars... Do I do it?

I bought a set of these to compare: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/fit-system/accessories/mirrors/truck-mirror/cee8a9bf91b7/k-source-fit-system-universal-mirror/kso1/h3721 At the very least, I'll use the mirror portion on the Comanche brackets, since mine are in poor condition.

That's not great. I guess I'm stuck with somehow creating my own bracket that is similar to the stock one, or sourcing a stock one.

Have you followed all the steps here: Specifically, adding the ground may help?

If you have a moment and don't mind checking, lmk! I wonder if I could fab a bracket that would just go from the upper mount to the lower mount, not all of the way down to the bottom of the door. Would be a hell of a lot easier, but not sure if it would provide the same bracing.

Yeah, it seems that is vital. Did Cherokee's come with this style mirror at all? Figured it might be easier to source it from that. I doubt the brace is still available from a dealer... @eaglescout526?

Oh, that looks impressive. Looks like it bolts down from the bottom and a couple of rivets in the center to hold it there. Assuming these aren't to be found anywhere, I'll have to thing of a way to reinforce it.