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Everything posted by hgeranium
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Best sources for a good quality OEM-style front bumper? I've read awful things from the OMIX and Crown bumpers. Is getting a half-decent one from the junkyard and re-painting it the best way? Same with the bumper caps.
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Thank you again for the help
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@eaglescout526 Found it! This would just plug directly to the connector to the lamp and that’s all I need to do?
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That’s horrible that this happened. I frequently have nightmares about mine getting stolen. Please keep us updated and we all pray for the speedy locating of your Comanche.
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Amazing! Thank you.
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random informative picture thread
hgeranium replied to maddzz1's topic in MJ Tech: DIY Projects and Write-Ups
Borrowed from fiatslug -
Makes one wonder why they would want to do that instead of keeping it in the harness. Seems more trouble than it's worth.
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I really used my peepers and couldn't find the wiring that would be for the work lamp. I assume it's under a different name that I'm just missing. That's an awesome diagram, though. I'm going to put that in the informative pic thread.
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1. That wire just gets routed directly from the light to the coil? How does it hook up to the coil itself? (Or does it just wrap around the end that the dizzy wire goes to?) 2. Can you link the post? I browsed through your account and the classifieds and didn't have any luck.
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Also, is it possible to put in the XJ facelift/TJ under hood lamp without too much trouble? I know a lot of the 84-90 work lights are either in very rough shape or wicked expensive, so if I can't find a decent one I may try to go down that avenue.
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I see in my build sheet that my Comanche came with an under hood lamp, but is long gone. It would be nice to have it for nostalgia purposes and for the occasional late-night fix. Where would I go about looking for the wiring for it? I imagine it's a pretty simple thing and would just need to find a new lamp assembly and hook it up to the cut wires.
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After doing some research it’s *almost* definitely the brake booster like you suspected. It’s got a leak somewhere. How does the brake booster vacuum line look? I would get a can of carb cleaner and have somebody depress the brake pedal and spray all around the booster, the vacuum line, and the vacuum ports on the intake and the booster to see if you can find out where the leak is. With any luck it just needs a new vacuum hose but I imagine other than that you may just need to replace the thing.
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Renix Engine and fuel control
hgeranium replied to NorJeep's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Sorry, I didn’t mean to throw you off. I mentioned it because eaglescout and Ωhm helped SoCalManche a few years ago with a no start that ended up taking 25 pages of thread for him to figure it out. Hopefully yours doesn’t go for that long lol. IIRC (one of) his problem was something about a bad injector that tested good but didn’t actually work. -
Any CC funk enjoyers?
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Look to the right and down from the coolant bottle. There should be a black rubber oblong piece with 2 vertically aligned vac lines. One line goes to the vacuum canister ball and the other goes to the heater control valve. A bad vacuum line will make the air always come out at defrost. The vac leak at my heater control valve made my air blow hotter and not nearly as hard as it does now, so it’s worth a look just in case.
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I also see your vacuum ball is on the intake side of the motor. Is it hooked up to the HVAC at all? It’s on the other side of the engine
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Woah what the heck. One of your PO switched the PCV and the CCV locations on the VC. I guess if it works. And since you have a CAI I’d be willing to bet you can get rid of that unsightly vacuum tree with a bit of rerouting or modification. I’m assuming your CCV hose just gets routed directly to the ground? Or into a catch can? That’s how I have mine since it kept putting oil in the air filter
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Where does that hose go to? I would imagine that a CAI would not change the routing of your PCV because it’s going into the intake manifold itself. The grommet and hose are very cheap, like $14 if you end up wanting to go back to stock.
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Do you have a picture of the entire engine bay?
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What’s that on the back of the valve cover? That’s supposed to be a PCV grommet and line that goes to the intake manifold. It almost looks like the CCV hose that’s on the front of the VC. I can’t really make anything out. There is a line going from the map sensor to the throttlebody, right? I can’t even see that in the picture but you would definitely know if you didn’t have it lol. Do you have any audible vacuum leaks? Or are you just trying to clean it up
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Renix Engine and fuel control
hgeranium replied to NorJeep's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
@eaglescout526 This is almost starting to look like SoCalManche’s 2.5 lol -
Engine bay cleaning methods?
hgeranium replied to hgeranium's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I know everyone has their own secret sauce but what do you use as degreaser? When I was an auto detailer, I used zep’s stuff but I’m always curious to try new stuff. -
I can’t wait to get out of College Station. As the name suggests, it’s nothing but JK/JL wranglers and new gladiators. Even the XJs are usually just populated by college girls. I’ve tried to ask them about their XJ if I run into one in a parking lot, but they have no clue about it. It’s either a family pass-down or something her dad bought for her etc. just an old SUV
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Which lines are plugged?. I don’t know if you have to do emissions in Illinois but bypassing EGR is worth it IMO simply for the fact that it deletes about 2-3 vacuum lines that you don’t have to worry about leaking if you don’t need to worry about emissions or smog like in Texas. If so, Boxyjeep sells a full EGR delete plate if you want to go all the way and clear up some engine space. The previous owner swapped my airbox to an HO airbox which deletes the vacuum lines going to it. So that’s always a possibility if you want to remove more lines from the equation. I only have three actual vacuum lines to worry about: MAP to TB (do cruiser’s tip 31!!! This is very important) PCV to intake, and fuel pressure regulator to intake. Everything else is capped or routed to itself in regards to the vacuum fitting that has 3 ports. Just my $0.02; it feels really nice to have such a simple vacuum system. as for the HVAC side, check out my post if you need more clarification like I did. YMMV if you don’t have cruise but it should be even simpler if so. Cruise control side goes to the servo, HVAC side goes to the black HVAC line in the firewall, then the other firewall line hooks up to the heater control valve. I found out that my heater control valve hasn’t had vacuum the entire time that I’ve owned it which caused a potpourri of HVAC related problems til now.
