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Everything posted by Matt1971
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Nice find. I'm looking to replace my cluster as well. Don't like the dummy lights, but want to keep the AMC logo in the lower left hand side.
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OK so last week she started overheating on my way home. Had the original radiator, I had replaced the overflow/fill bottle. Had recently replaced the water pump due to the bearing going bad. She was spraying antifreeze all over the engine from the overflow bottle. So i figured I better replace the radiator, but I wanted to change it to a closed system. I figured since I'm changing the radiator the I'd better change the T-stat and since I'm changing the T-stat might as well change the T-stat housing just in case. Also, Since I was upgrading to the closed system I figured I better change the heater control valve since the old one was meant to be used with the open system. And of course I needed to get an overflow resevoir since. Getting the old radiator out wasa piece of cake, just took the bolts out of the header, disconnected the upper and lower hose and it came right out. The rubber grommets on the bottom were still in really good shape so I reused them and the top bushing we fine too except one nut was rusted on. I had to use a hacksaw on it so I had to replace that nut with an M5 nut and washer. Took off the T-stat housing and the T-stat was cracked and stuck open. It looked like it might have been the original :doh: so pulled it out and replaced it and the housing. The heater hose going from the T-stat housing and the heater control valve was swollen so I replaced that hose. Then the tricky part, how to connect hte control valve, but of course Comance Club to the rescue and I found a drawing with all the inputs labeled and picture of it connected. Thanks mkbruin http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27165&p=275052&hilit=heater+control+valve#p275052. The only place I could figure to place the overflow tank was where the old pressurized bottle was. So I mounted it there but the hose that came with it was way too short. Back to the parts store, I picked up some 5/8" hose and ran it to the tank, filled the radiator with antifreeze and everything runs great now :thumbsup: new tank and heater control new T-stat housing new radiator and cap, *shiny* I'll post pictures of the old radiator when I get a chance. Too dark to take a picture now, but it was see through
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Have seen mounts like that to holda bike rack, but would think that would cause the smartcars to pop a wheelie :rotf:
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Congrats! It takes a lot of hard work and dedication. :thumbsup: Trying to get my oldest to finish his, he's 15 and a life, but lost interest in scouting about the middle of his freshman year, it's hard when you get to high school, sports really start to get in the way. Anyway, hope I can convince him to start scouts again before he get to old to finish. You've done a great thing and all of us old scouts are proud of you.
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btw, I adjusted the proportioning valve, with the length of the rod it's slightly higher that the 3 o'clock position, but not much. Haven't really noticed much difference :dunno: you think the valve could be bad? Or would I have no brakes if it were bad? Slightly off topic, but my ebrake was not working at all, would go almost to the floor with not much effort. I tightened the adjustment and now it holds when the truck trys to roll forward, but rolling backwords it's like there is no brakes set? Any ideas on that?
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OK, so I'm a dumba$$! Followed my own advice and checked out http://www.teamcherokee.com/ and of course, they had the tank and only $32.60 with shipping. These guys are awesome , now just hope it's not backordered.
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So it's been a while since I posted, with the holidays and my sons wrestling I haven't had time for much else. But the other day I was driving back from work and about a 1/2 mile from home I hear a thunk and the altenator light kicks on the power steering is out and I think great the belt broke. So I'm thinking, I can make it home... right? So I make it home and as I stop the whole front end is enveloped in water vapor, I wait for things to cool off and when I open my hood (sorry no pics :( ) I see that the idle pulley, where the air conditioner pump would go, bearing just expolded and the belt was slack and in good condition. However, the expansion tank from the radiator had sprung and leak from a crack that I can only think is from age. :fs1: I get a pulley, no problem. the only issue is I have to get a 5/8" washer to put behind is so the pulley doesn't rub against the flange when mounted. Works great but as soon and any heat at all the tiny hole in the tank starts spraying coolant all over everything. I take off the tank clean it up and try to patch the hole with JB cold weld. Everything looks good, let it cure for 18 hours and as soon as it gets hot it the JB weld gets soft and the leak is as bad as ever! Yeah JB cold weld turned into silly putty as it got hot, I never would have thought it either. So, I have a buddy gives me this stuff, not sure what it's called but it's like a gray clay Slim Jim but the core is darker. You knead the core and outer layer together and mold it to the shape you want and in an hour it's as hard as rock. It works great for about 2 days. Now, last night, I smelled coollant again and found that it is seeping from around the sides of the patch still. So either I have to find someone that has one of these expansion tanks that I can buy (so far not anyplace can get their hands on one), or swap out the radiator to an open system :wall: If anyone knows where I can get an expansion tank in good shape I would much appreciate it. ;)
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So it's supposed to be in the 12 o'clock position?
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So was looking at my rear dif and it looks like it may be leaking slightly on the ds... btw, can anyone tell me what kind this one is? I'm thinking it's a Dana 35 :???: I don't know how you guys can tell just by looking at them. :hmm:
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project Old Rusty (new panel welded in)
Matt1971 replied to MancheKid86's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
Don't you just love the suspence? :) -
Ahh... so it's all in the point of view. I get it now ;)
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So watching Spike this morning and on comes Exterem 4x4. A bolt on suspension from Rusty's is "Extreme 4x4"? Really Spike?
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No part number that I saw listed but they are the ones the site list to replace factory original parts numbers #53004838 & #53004868. Here is the link to the page http://www.teamcherokee.com/Emissions/index.html The ones pictured above are the Emission Vacuum Harness Cherokee & Comanche 4.0 Liter 1988-1990. It says 88-90 but they are identical to the setup that was on my 87.
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Jimmy21669 turned me onto Team Cherokee http://www.teamcherokee.com/ They have all kinds of stuff for the older Jeeps.
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Awesome build. I can only hope mine can be nearly as nice.
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- dana 44/8.8
- arb lockers
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late but better then never 89 pioneer 2wd soon 4wd
Matt1971 replied to btm24's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
Well they have changed the design, no more CJ, no more MJ and the new jeeps just don't look as manly I'm sorry to say. The new Jeeps are kinda metrosexual. They need to do what Ford did with the mustang and bring back the lines and the ruggedness that made the Jeep popular in the first place. -
Got my vacuum hoses today No more cracks and leaks, haven't driven it far yet, but seems to idle a bit smoother now.
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how many cranks before it starts?
Matt1971 replied to MJ86YJ90's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
My 87 usually starts in 5-6 cranks, always starts and runs great. So if it's starting after 4 cranks your good. -
I get my computer stuff from newegg. Always have it within about two days. Also you can compare features and price as well as read reviews from other customers. http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=wireless+n+router
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Converting back to normal from amsoil..?
Matt1971 replied to 87Chief's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Your CCV fresh air hose has been rigged, the hard plastic probably broke and they fit rubber tubing to replace it. No biggie should work well. How old is the filter? You shouldn't get a lot of oil in it unless your getting a lot of blowby. Check the hard plastic line in the rear of crankcase cover, someone on here suggested cleaning it with weed eater sting, it worked well for me got the gunk out. Also looks like your crankcase gasket is leaky, could be where you are losing some oil. Fix that and you can get rid of some of the burnt oil smell from it leaking onto the engine block. But like they have already said, it's an mj and an older engine, you just gotta live with little oil. -
My first vehicle that I bought all my own was a 92 Jeep Cherokee sport, I wanted an MJ but they didn't have any and said they werent' getting anymore. I was upset with that, but I did love driving my XJ 4x4. When I found my current MJ I just couldn't pass it up, I still always wnated one. It ws the best looking compact truck IMHO ever made. Now just need to get it converted to 4x4 :brows:
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Nice looking truck. Great find and great price.
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Everything I read on the web kinda points to a bad ground. Maybe when you changed the battery? Electrical problems are tough :ack: Were there any ground points on the deck? What year is your truck? Check this guys page http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/faq.html scroll to the bottom nad read the Renix facts if you have a 87-90 truck.
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It was a leash to own dog :shake: Get used to my bad spellin, I plan to be here a while :rotf:
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Here's the wiring diagram from my Hayne's manual. It's a crappy scan maybe you can copy it and enlarge it :oops:
