Dadinator

Needs recharged. Low on freon. Mine is not working now. Can you even get freon now? Not sure. You can get the 134 stuff, but I don't know if you can get the old stuff these trucks require without converting them.

Pulled this off the net for your reading pleasure... "What's a 3/4 Race Cam? In the early 1950's the most popular original camshaft designers were the legendary Ed Winfield, the father of hotrodding, and Cliff Collins of Harman-Collins. If you look a Huntington's 1951 book you will find the specs for their cams listed. We've also listed some of their cams on our Flathead Performance Cams page. There were lots of cam grinders that copied Winfield and Harman-Collins cams, but these two were the designers and innovators in the early days. It was popular to refer to cams as a 1/2 Race or Semi grind and a Full Race grind. Later, there was a call for an intermediate grind between these two. To fill this demand, Ed Winfield took the intake lobe from his full race cam and the exhaust lobe from his semi cam and called it a 3/4 Race cam (see Flathead Performance Cams). It was literally half way between a full race and 1/2 race cam. Since that time, 3/4 Race has become a generic term for a high performance street cam, i.e. something less than a race cam."

Yep... 0 lift. Stock "Big Ton"

OK. so I realized that I had bought my son some lights for this truck for when he still had it. He never installed them. Found them in the basement still in packaging. Then I realized that I had a spare one just like them in the garage from when he had a set on the truck and then wrecked it. 1 survived. So I ended up with 5. Got some switches, and tada! Picked up this toolbox today for $30. Posted about it in another thread too. Some Poser Shots.

Craigslist. I have been wanting a tool box for this truck since I got it. New ones are mucho 'spensive. Dude had this tool box for $40. I offered $30. He took it. Locks work and he had 2 keys. WHAT?

You young punks.... :doh: Back in the day, when you bought a cam, they weren't as sophisticated as they are now. You didn't buy by the lift and duration. You simply got a 3/4 race cam or a full on race cam. A 3/4 would have a nice lope at idle and boost the HP quite a bit over stock. With a 427 hopped up a bit, I bet that ole barge will get on down the road quite nicely... Nice... Very nice! :bowdown:

I told the wife I thought it was 70's. Looks to be in great shape. How many miles are on it? I used to have a KZ550 back in the early 80's. Mine is a 2008 Vulcan 2000. Love that bike. We're on the 4th season with it and have put just over 27K on it.

Man that is an old school wing. What year is it? Looks good.

Hey, thanks! They are 31 X 10.5 X 15. They will probably fit stock wheels, but do better on a 8 inch rim. I think the rims you have on there are only 6 inches wide. The paint doesn't look as cool in person. :D It's just rattle can satin black. But it covers everything. I did it that way on purpose. I don't want to have to worry about a nice paint job on my truck. I worry too much about it on my bike and car. If I scratch the truck, I just get out the rattle can and touch it up. If you haven't yet, go over to my build thread and see the history of the old truck. A link in my signature.

Never thought about a dead cell taxing the alternator. Food for thought. Thanks.

Not an expert, but if the battery was toast, would he have been able to start the truck? Anyway, the alternator in the TJ went south last week. Also no warning. It didn't smoke, it simply locked up. Started the Jeep and massive belt squeal. Looked at it and the pulley was not turning. Your new alternator will come with a pulley. Check online. As I said above, I just bought one for the TJ. Checked Autozone, Advance Auto and OReilly online. Best price they had for that application was $96. I got one on ebay for $69 with free shipping. It was the same part number as the one at Advance Auto. Got it in and installed yesterday. Works fine. Good Luck!

You're exactly right. Do what you like, like what you do... I'll be watching... I want to see what it looks like when complete. :cheers:

I've been toying with the idea of putting a wrangler back seat in the back of mine. Mounting it with seat belts for future kid riders...

Red, You may have taken that "extra step". :nuts: I love that movie, by the way... Probably seen it a dozen times.

Cool, welcome. Pics of the truck and the ruby. specs on the MJ... and Pics, we love pics.

Pretty sure if it came on a YJ or TJ wrangler or XJ cherokee, it will fit a comanche. Got Gamblers on the mule.

Looking good man. Keep up the work. It is very rewarding when the thing gets on the road. I know that feeling when it starts for the first time. Exciting and relief. :wrench:

How's the height on the Dakota seats? Those look great. How much would a set of those cost?

:agree: I got a whole totaled XJ with a 4.0 and ax15 for $400 last year that I used for my mule. See my build in my sig to see what i got. Pulled a million parts off of it. I actually sold what was left this year a little soon. I wish I would've pulled a couple more parts off of it. Oh well. $825 is too much for what you're getting. Shop around. Check Craigslist and stuff. If you aren't desparate for parts for a driver and are getting it for a project, definitely keep shopping.

Finished the D44 fix today. Works great. No noises or leaks. Smooth as silk. Took it down the road and then up a couple hills in the woods to double check everything. Alls good. :clapping: Gave it a bath as it has been sitting in the barn/(wifes wood shop) collecting dust for a couple of weeks. For a 22 year old truck with no paint job, it looks pretty good. :yes:

The lights themselves, I think you can get them at autozone or some other similar place. The sheetmetal is custom. Pretty sure....

Put a few pics on the "Family Truck" build thread of the spider gear replacement. Link is in my sig if interested.

In process of fixing the D44. Had to remove the whole carrier. The big pin that holds the spider gears in place wouldn't clear the ring gear. So, I just removed the axles and removed the whole housing. It wasn't bad. The only real trouble I had was removing that little pin that holds the big pin in. Sucker didn't want to move, but I finally coaxed it out. Here are some pics... Broken gears... :oops: Here are the bolts to be removed to remove the axles. No c clips on the inside like the D35's and others. Axle Out. Here are the broken gears out of the housing. Back together... Got it all together. Just need to put the cover back on and fill it with fluid. Need to get a gasket first. Calling it quits for today (too hot). Will finish it up tomorrow. :wrench:

Got the axles back in, brakes back on and the wheels back on. Everything looks good. Off to the parts store to pick up a gasket and some more oil. I don't think I have enough. Then all done. Will finish it tomorrow as it is to bloody hot out there right now. This weather is dumb. :dunce:

Already got it out and spiders installed and the carrier back in. Used the 2 crow bar method. Pete, is yours a D44? Maybe that's the difference why it wouldn't clear.. I don't know. Taking lunch. Will post pics in my build thread later. Just have to put the axles back in and button it all up.