skidoo_j

The sensor values from 88-90 vs 91-93 are off quite a bit. wouldn't that cause some issues. It's over 60 degrees difference that the computer would be reading. So our renix system would think the air coming in is 60 degrees colder then it actually is. Colder air denser air more fuel? so it would run too rich from this sensor input then the o2 would cut it back except o2 is only read at cruise in a renix system... Anybody have a different MAT sensor replacement or is this as close as it gets?

followed them two plus weeks ago when you posted last time, but thanks for responding. any other ideas?

Okay so I pulled the IAC and there was a pretty good rub mark from where it looks like maybe the pintle is out of alignment and pushes up into the seat. The pintle has play about 1/8" in rotation. The pintle shaft has side to side play. (as in it can Rock side to side) the pintle and shaft would not push in or out.

Well for about a week i thought i had it fixed... During this week i only drove mostly short trips. Today i drove 10 miles on freeway and it's acting exactly the same. 500 rpm idle after start settles 1100 rpm idle when just to a stop from driving hard to get drop lower that 1000 rpm. ANY IDEAS??? Was thinking maybe the IAC is bad/going or has a bad spot on the pintle. I'm going to go pull it again and clean it this evening. PLEASE help.

I'm not instigating or accusing anyone of commiting any crime, I watch alot of NCIS type shows and it just really looks like it could be on the show. I'm also the type of person who feels more than two coincidences shows a plan or plot rather than "coincidences". here's where I'd insert political info but not the correct forum. I'm no expert, but looking at the photos it appears there is inward damage probably no caused by an outward explosion(back end, drivers rear fender, spare tire trunk). I wonder if the acetelyene explosion was not to cover up the fact he had totaled his fj earlier. This speculation comes from the fact that the original posts have been forced down by attorneys and the owner. If something fishy was not involved and it was the whole truth the insurance attorneys and the owner would not be forcing the take down the pictures; unless he's now trying to sue the place that filled the tank and stating they gave it to him leaking. He did admit in the story that the valve got bumped, however the story has not been forced down off the original site. He blurbed about contacting toyota, but I fail to see any responsibility on their part, after all an FJ is not an assault vehicle made for the military it's and urban assault vehicle made for the soccer field :). I was unable to find this anywhere on any actual publications other than on chat boards. It's not in any newspapers or on any tv news broadcasts. I don't know about everyone else but my local paper would have posted this from the 911 call, and the odds that atleast one tv news wouldn't have flocked to it would be pretty slim. So I think this is most likely a spoof.

Maybe you need a new power steering fluid reservoir :) I happen to have one that is brand new.

I was debating if one could use them to attach sliders or if the leverage would be too great and tweak it. I am searching for the factory brackets though as i have a factory bar installed but the guy i got the bar from had not pulled the brackets.

What happens causing you to think you're loosing gas and not just burning it? I'm not a 2.5 guy but on my 4.0 I had a hesitation and ran injector cleaner and cleaned tb. it resolved it.. But i did check to make sure my fuel pressure was accurate. Could also be an O2 sensor if your truck transitions into cruise or closed fuel mapping.

city/freeway/ Motor/axle ratio/tire size/--- notes of other thing possibly affecting mpg 14mpg/16 mpg/ 4.0L/ 3.57 / 31 10.5-15-- 4x4, EGR removed, black jack header, no cat, rusty tb spacer, stock airbox, renix, 4.5" lift

For your scenario a repeater would probably be best. It will take some work to set one up properly. I used a WiEx zbooster repeater. It allows you to mount an antenna where you actually get signal then rebroadcasts it where ever you place the base. Best part is the antenna connection is typical sat-coax i think rg6. So you could put your antenna near end of your drive on a tree or ??? then run the coax under ground to the house. Biggest thing i learned while using this type is that if the antenna was 15' in height above the base it worked alot better. I'm sure if it were 50' horizontally it would be equivalent. Their product allows also you to go really hard core and install a yagi directional antenna at as high a dB increase you want. http://www.wi-ex.com/homeOffice.aspx the disappointing thing i had with them was it only repeated edge band, but I went from no bar/no service in house to 3 bar rarely ever dropping calls. My receiving antenna was 10' above my roof. Keep in mind your cell service from this style will only be as good as the reception at the antenna. But with their system and a yagi antenna you can pretty much get signal from no where. When i sold my old unit on ebay i sold it for the same price i paid new. I've since moved again and now I've purchased a microcell for att. It plugs into your broadband connection and actually generates a 3g signal. It works very well when the phone actually connects. I think sprint has them too. another option for sprint if i remember right depending on your phone you can set it up to use your current wifi as a hotspot call.

What RPM are you running at? How does it run at lower speeds in same rpm range? Cruising or accelerating? Does it only happen at 70 or is it 70+ ? Does the gauge drop when this happens and that's why you think your loosing gas? You've check fuel lines all way back to tank for cracks? Maybe your fuel pump wiring is shorting out or rubbing at a certain vibration.

I wanted to see the effects on the rebar. Did the rebar show signs of oxidation, or did it actually disolve the Iron from the rebar into the salt bridge solution? Didn't the bracket get crystallized with Na+ ions? Did it appear that the oxidation on the bracket was dissolved off or did iron redeposit and partially fill the voids created by the corrosion. In the pictures it doesnt really look like it did any better than naval jelly does. Granted it's not as caustic using electrolysis and probably leaves more metal than grinding and sanding.

I searched antidisestablishmentarianism prior to my post and only found two posts about weekend plans. Then searched w a t and there were tons of posts showing the corrected form. I find it quite funny now that I'm aware.

Well it kinda freaked me out when I started reading back over a post I had written, I started thinking wth did my computer get a worm or virus etc and started looking at older posts and didn't see it anywhere but in one of my recent posts. Thanks for prompting a few virus scans and a mal-ware search or two. Once I had come up empty handed with that avenue I edited the post and found that I had actually pressed a 't' instead of a 'y' for way and typed w a t. :thwak: Glad to know I'm not crazy.

has anyone else noticed that if they've mis-typed what as wa't (with out the apostrophe) it reads antidisestablishmentarianism here i'm typing wa't with out the apostrophe antidisestablishmentarianism this only took 4 edits to get it to read correctly :)

replaced the map sensor. Idle will now drop to 400-500 range. the truck's idle will still hang a little high, now at 1000 rpm, however it's about half as frequent. it also takes a lot less to drop the idle, before it would take a hard strain on the motor and a cycle of slipping the clutch etc now just an instant of stain and drop. I do think the iac maybe having some issues though because the idle dropped so low at one point it then picked up to about 700 rpm like a anti diesel effect kicked in. i may pull the iac again and clean it a second time. I would love if napa or autozone would let me "try" a new one. I just don't want to spend 100 on one and it make no difference. the map at $30 is bad enough.

second run. i turned ignition on, turned off, disconnected iac. then started truck 2k drove down road 2k. stopped 2k got out connected iac 1k... So it appears the IAC is not totally bad, and obviously it is capable to bring the idle down.... Ideas thoughts???

I had not though of running the truck with the iac disconnected. I figured it would move by vibrations, but it may provide me with a better guess if the iac is bad or if the map is bad. With IAC unplugged running/driving senario: I started truck and waited until it came down to 600 rpms then unplugged the iac. shut truck off. waited 10 min and started it. It didnt want to run much but chugged its way to 600 rpm. I drove 12 miles and it was stuck at 1100 rpm area. tried bogging engine, reving the engine, removed vacuum hose idle went up reconnected 1100 rpm. reconnected iac few seconds and it went down to 700 rpm.

While talking with someone regarding this issue I stated i was wondering if my ECU was toast. They then asked if I had welded on the truck. I have. When I replaced the floor pan in the truck we did not disconnect the battery. He then told me the ECU was toast. Would there be any validity to this? The truck seems to run perfectly except for this idle issue. well and i'm getting what i think is lower than normal mpg 14.5 but there are some other things i think maybe causeing this as i'm carrying a couple sand bags and have been hauling the motorcycle to and fro the mtn. Tomorrow I will drive 60 miles with out stops so i will know if having issues with fuel mapping across board.

Key was on when i got the 10 ohms with connector plugged in. unplugged 0.3 ohms with key off plugged in 0.4 ohms with key off. I adjusted the butterfly again until there was just enough tension to hold a piece of paper between the stop and lever.

also found that if stuck at 1100 rpm and unplug iac i cannot get it to come down at all... Does this imply the iac is working? when at 600rpm and turning wheel allway to one side or other idle does not increase, it decreases

I got it to stick at 1100 rpm with out driving... engine was warm... could not get it to drop by either creating vacuum leak or unpluging iac or reving motor... had to strain motor. measured map output at 600rpm is 1.20v (fsm says should be 1.5v) ISSUE? measuring resistance across tps as move flapper appears very consistent. measured resistance across iac out side two 55ohm inside two 56 ohms 7 ohms at o2 sensor... both engine coolant temp sensor and manifold air temp are in spec at current temp... still thinking iac... maybe map or ecu...

Finally uploaded pics of the installed 2.5 expansion bottle with factory air box.

My meter read 10 ohms to negative when the connector was plugged into the tps. I was thinking the 10 ohms could have been from the back feed. When I measure impedance with it unplugged b-neg was 0 Ohms. To modify the ground you're suggesting to just splice wire to ground? As my my reading would already indicate I had good ground on the wire with 0 ohms when unplugged. I did change my tps to 17% of 4.85v without altering the wiring. I set the butterfly stop about 1/4 turn past where it looked as if the flap touched. And I'm still receiving the same behavior. I did also check voltage from a-b b-c comparing to a-neg neg-c. The voltages were the same with in the accuracy of my meter. Symptom is: Start truck. runs around 1200 rpm... idle drops to 600 rpm area rapidly. drive truck, stop at light 1100 rpm, drive stop at sign 1200rpm... come back to house idle 1100 rpm. let sit for 2 min still 1100 rpm. rev rev idle drops to 1000 rpm (sometimes reving it brings it to 600rpm range).. clutch in first gear clutch out while holding brake but not let die. idle drops to 600 rpm. I've wanted to test the IAC motor, but I don't have a voltage stepper as described in the manual to test it. Any ideas as to what could be used?

This is a much better procedure than what I have in my service manual. Mine said to just adjust it to .85 volts. I didnt agree with it because the alternator could have pulsed it. I will go adjust it using the 17% rule. Will post how it goes. thx :wrench: