skidoo_j

My point for asking is i recently experienced dw again after riding it. and when i mesaured my camber ontop of the ball joints i found 9 degrees. so i've got to correct it. i can do it two ways remove .75 off the front of the truck, or i need to get longer uper control arms as i'm above 4.5" of lift, but then i only measure 4. I'm just not sure if i've eliminated to much of the stock rake. I like how it looks and i guess that's ultimatly the decision i have to make but i'm just baffled how by product i should be 5-6" of lift but i'm measure 3-4

Picture before SOA and springs: This is with SOA done and Rusty's 300 springs and stock spring isolators (maybe one .75 energy suspension isolator stacked) current SOA, rusty's 305 stock isolators with two .75 energy suspension isolators stacked:

Okay so this is ran into the ground over and over, but I'm having issues with what my measurements show vs what I"ve done. 1. Could someone post a picture of a brand new 4x4 Comanche from the side so i can see the factory rake. My issue is I did an SOA with a Dana 44. I tried to minimize the lift by getting the lowest perches possible. I then used an XJ shackle with a limiting strap. So I'm guessing that should have net approx 4" so I put rustys' 305 (i know some people will say it was a mistake but was what i could afford) then added 1.5" in spacers. I started with just .75 in spacers to net about 4" but the rake was just so much. so i should have about 4.5-5" as the springs haven't' settled I took my measurements tonight neglecting to take before lift for comparison: front axle to frame: 11 5/8" front center wheel to edge stock fender flair: 22.5 so net approx 4. rear axle to frame : 12.25 rear center to stock fender flair: 24.25 so only 3" but there is still a fair forward rake. I was originally thinking the rear springs were fatigued. as they seem to flatten with very little load, but if there were any taller the rake would still larger yet. how much rake did the truck have stock???

Passenger side threw 1.5 oz weight. that couldnt be enough to start death wobble is it?

I"m at a loss. I can't think of anything that has not been replaced. I've even gotten rid of the Rusty's bushing in the track bar. I did however do a bit of wheeling and noticed my toe is about 3/4" so i'm going to adjust that, Wondering if wheels are out of balance again. Anyone replaced the steering gear box to eliminate DW. I noticed there is a bit of play in the shaft.

I've contacted him several times and no response. I would buy them. as I'm local just to see if they'd fit... If i pick them up i'd trade them out for a swb set.

I'm intersted in this, but i have a SWB I was wondering if anyone knew if it was just a difference in the tube length or is the angle different too? If all i have to do is shorten the tubes and relocated the mounting plate i'm all for it, but cutting and reangling the back tube Eh.... might not look so nice after the torch and grinder. thoughts?

the replacements from euramtec are on anytime up or down, and on when door open when centered.

50% off, pretty significant. Just got two for price of one from them and recieved it in 3 days. Great looking product. They come with two pieces and require you to make the existing hole a little larger. you'll need three male spades and three female spades per side unless you want to cut existing wires. I think th eblack trim looks better then the chrome anyways.

I just bought their last two

http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/2200341875.html

This would be one of my questions. with the CAD could i technically run in 3x4 for control issues or does the no-slip need a bias like a typical LSD to lock? Also i think most newer jeeps have a limited slip like tranny hence the 4x4 full time vs part time. I don't want to replace my transfercase. CAD also allows me to have 2x4 low. I'm a weekender or maybe monthly wheeler. My Comanche is used as a daily driver. I'm wanting to get the best on/off road situation.

pros cons for one vs other? Are you able to maintain the CAD with the detroit or do you have to eliminate it? I've heard and read you have to eliminate the cad and i didnt want to drive with the both hubs locked all the time.

I'm looking to put the powertrax no slip by richmond in the front of the comanche. I've eliminated the vacuum system with a posi-loc cable system. I have a richmond lock right in the rear 44 already. My quetions: 1. Will the no slip lock when in 4x4 with CAD disconnected and run in 3x4 for turning or will it disengage to 2x4? 2. Is the No-slip behavior on icy roads still controlable to use as a daily driver? 3. Did the no-slip effect your turn radius when wheeling? 4. would you buy another?

I've read bad things about centrimatic balancers or that style, for on/off road type driving as they prevent brakes from gettign air and get jambed up with mud. True or false for those who use that style.

Yes it is centripetal force that holds the dynamic weights around the curve of the tire. It's the same force that keeps water in a bucket as you spin it on a rope in 3rd grade. However this is not a "el-cheapo" method. It is suppose to allow on/off road with fewer problems. It automatically adapts to new tire flaws and also account for the weights that came off while in mud or bouncing off rocks. A majority of tire shops at least in this area don't even try to balance tires with large amounts of tread. I've had mine balanced 4 times now and each time (different shop) they say they hop on their machine. They've inspected for separating tread and odd wear. The problem i see in using airsoft bb's vs the commercially available is the size of the pellets. The ones through http://www.innovativebalancing.com/ are smaller so they would disperse better. Thinking about force I don't think the mass of the object would have as much impact as size. also both of these companies really advertise for 18 wheels and long trip driving. Would the bb's or airsoft bb's damage an aluminum wheel??? Has anyone done a before and after drive with same tires/wheel combo with only adding internal weights?

I'm looking to find people who have used internal balancing weights wether copper bb's, plastic airsoft bb's, or the comercially available powders or beads. I've read some people have used 50/50 anti-freeze. My tires are 31x10.5 15 Just wanting to know if people have used any of these and their success or disasters. My thoughts are that dynamic balancing would only benefit freeway driving, but may cause problems in stop and go under 35 daily driving as there would not be enough force created at lower speeds so the weights would just tumble on the bottom of the tire.

Death wobble is gone. Although this maybe as before be premature. The final issues: Two bad lower ball joints. Incorrect spacer in stabilizer Way out of balance tires

steering is way different with the wheel not flopping arround. I still havn't had a chanc to go out and try for wobble. it has not done it or started to but have not really gon over 45mph since last changes.

Installed a posi-loc 920 and fixed my floppy tilt steering column. Night and day difference driving with a wheel that doesnt flop all arround

i do have play in the steering box how much is allowed?? How can i verify if castor is correct. I really just guessed on length and the alignment shop said yeah its' fine. i' put the steering reinforcement in already too.

yes lifted about 4" Yes had alignment the said caster was fine set toe. still wobble took to another alignment shop they found the lower passenger side ball bad i replaced all 4. i thought it was fixed as it went away under 50. as was happening at 40's then happened at 55 ish not as bad as prior. but still oh also changed from oem stabilzer that was new to the rancho when did ball joints

There is a new stabilizer (rs5000 series rancho) New control arms new track bar New upper lower ball joints (moog) new shocks new springs all items have been swapped attempting to fix this death wobble. all tie rod ends seem very solid.

on way back an addtl 250 miles i found that when the wobble begins if i accelerate it seemed to snap me out of the wild shaking before it happens. Or a sharp turn. Hoping all this time the start of the wobble was not in the drive shaft. Will be checking angles again as things have settled a bit since the rear axle swap.

just took my dad for a ride. and he said same thing. He said if tie rods were bad i could not corner as i can. Thought bearings or rear drive line being at such an angle. just happens to cause bounce etc.