skidoo_j

:dunno: :dunno: None of this electrical stuff makes sense to me. In Lamens term, what do I need to do to wire like it is supposed to be? :dunno: What does everything connect to? i've even read about it connecting to the radiator?? :dunno: I explain the wire scheme on this post viewtopic.php?f=2&t=34714 a way to test to see how/what your po did is to pull the relay that is on the driver side. use a multi meter to see if you have voltage across 85/86 with ignition on. if this is the case disconnect the plug that goes to the switch in the radiator. driverside. and measure again... if you still have 12 volts they altered the wiring. if there is no longer voltage then the temp switch is bad. here's a pic of the relay i found on the net for the relay pin layout and numbers... disregard the red wire in the diagram it's for something else. pic is for reference if you want i can take pictures of each connection and post it. if that will help.

How do you get these people on the phone with you? They only way they require their microcell subscription is if you don't buy it out right. Their Microcell only works with ATT plans. The part that makes me want to reach through the phone and slap that lady for you is you can add anyone to your microcell list as long as they have ATT. They don't suddenly subscribe to the microcell service. I have family visit from Hawaii who have ATT not with my plan and they use my microcell the week they're here. If you don't have service I'd really just get one off ebay... I saw one end the other day for 95 dollars.

Well I have two of them currently in use. One at my house, one at parents. I bought one new from the store and the other used. I have never paid them a monthly fee for the use of the microcells. Sounds to me like the person you spoke with was mis-informed. All you have to do is go to the "microcell website" once you have one. you will sign into your online phone account and then enter in the micrcell mac addy and they your physical address (for 911). and 90 minutes later you're connected. Oh and here's info from their site: http://www.att.com/shop/wireless/device ... q#features on the right side of their screen : Improved coverage for voice and 3G data* – more bars in your home or office No monthly fees – use the minutes and data from your existing wireless plan Device is secure – cannot be accessed by unauthorized users Online management of device settings – simple

it's W A T that was in question in this thread. I think WOT is an acronym for wide open throttle as mvusse stated.

The microcell does not require a service plan. What the service plan with the microcell does is allows any call that starts while connected to the microcell is unlimited. You can pick up a microcell for 100 used. I have two of them. they work great, when you can get the phone to connect. sometimes the phones struggle where I'm at because they catch edge service from a different carrier's tower that att doesn't like to pay lease on i guess. So I somtimes have to power my phones off a few times before they connect to the microcell.

Some of you guys that changed your gear ratios are getting amazing gas mileage, did you correct your odometer?

Still looking for oem brackets.

The electric fan wiring on the 89 there is a fuseable link off the terminals near the battery. This 12 volt runs across the front of the truck in the loom behind the grill. It then connects to a relay on the drivers side fender (30). connection 87 then goes to the fan's positive. the neg of the fan goes to a ground. now the control of the of the relay runs off the ign accessory 12 volt... i think it's a yellow wire in the loom. it feeds off of this goes to the thermostat that is in the radiator. then comes off of that goes into an orange if/than block then goes to the relay (85) and connection 86 is connected to ground. it sounds like he may have bypassed the thermostat. or... on the orange block (1/2" square at best) there are three wires... one comes from the thermostat as stated above, one goes to the relay, and the other goes to the air condition circut (if ac is on fan is on). what it does is it works like and if/than switch and prevents back feed. I pulled this setup from an xj as mine didnt' come with an electric fan or ac. so i used the ac input off the orange block and wired it to a switch in the cab. so i could turn the fan on manually when I wanted, but it also would come one auto with temp sensor. I powered this switch in the cab with a small capacitor and diodes off of the ign switch so when i turn off the key and have the fan switch on it will still run the fan for about 25 seconds.

89... 4.0... 5 spd ... 3.54... 31x10.5... By the charts i've found I need a 32 tooth long shaft. I guess PPR used to make them but nolonger does. I've been trying to find another dealer, but I guess jeep never made a 32 tooth only a 30 and 33. I did find both of those through chryslerparts.com found these guys and i think it's right but am unsure. http://www.transmissioncenter.org/speed ... d_jeep.htm

Okay so I've researched and know the tooth count I need to correct my Odometer for my tire/ gear changes, however I cannot locate anyone who sells the gears anymore. the dealer said they're discontinued. I ordered one from olympic offroad and they sent me a gear and then called and said it was wrong. They then tried to get their hands on one for me and could not locate or assemble one. any suggestions?

Is that a half yard of 3/4 minus? I've been researching some numbers vs weights of materials.... 1 cuyd 3/4 minus 2800lbs 1 cuyd sand 2600lbs (Low Moisture/Dry) 1 cuyd decom granite 2700lbs (Low Moisture/Dry) So by my own admission I hauled 1/2 a yard of sand and 1/2 a yard of decom granite at the same time w/o bump stops and SOA. The bed did not rub on the tires. I ended up hauling 2650lbs minimum, let alone the sand and granite were damp. I plan to replace my springs as I'm uncomfortable with them after examining two comanches at my local home Depot that were pretty loaded. Their springs did not have a downward turn in the last 4" of spring. My concern is there is now a weak point in the main spring and it will snap when i'm taking my dirt bike up the hill. I really want hellcreek MT springs. And have every intention of buying them, however UPS seems to think they need lots of money to ship them and it just makes it over an acceptable investment into the truck. So now the debates begin... Get rid of it, get used springs from junk yard, or bite the bullet and get hellcreeks.

We've got a set of air bags sitting on the shelf from the ford. Debating on making a quick removable setup with it so i could through on the airbags for hauling if need and swap out with typical bump stop in everyday driving. the only down side to the air bag is i'm still using the portion valve in the rear and if i held the truck higher with the airbags the rear brakes wouldn't increase.

I cut an old acetylene tank in half. filled it full of water and lye. then did a cast turbo housing from banks off my dad's dodge. It was spotless. Inside and out in 72 hours. I had to put a fan on my battery charger because it was pushing 8 amps continuously.

running 31's with soa i think the springs would get damaged before tires.

Pete, This may sound like a dumb question, but how did you determine the height of the bump stop. what i was thinking... when sua the bump hit the axle tube, now that i'm SOa I need to add about 2.75 inches above the spring pack for the bump stop to engage on???

Welllll I never extended my bump stops after i went soa

are you running metric ton springs?

Did you order the HellCreek MT?? Review? Why HellCreek over Motion? Motion also has factory non MT springs too.

It's not about clearance as much with the MJ's, but instead shackle inversion & angle. Imagine the shackle dangling freely, now attach a spring and allow it to droop. The shackle will swing toward the frame. Now, if the spring compresses and there's pressure on the tire, the shackle cannot swing back forward and instead will rise up (swing backward) during the spring compression. This causes the spring to bend upward at the end. The boomerang shackle helps prevents it due to the angle. Also the angle is very much key in how a rear leaf will ride while on the road. Though it's the same distance between 2 points I'll agree; but if your shackle is say at 45deg vs. 30deg you will notice a huge amount if difference in ride quality. It has to do with how much movement the shackle can make; and how the energy is transferred to the vehicle. Though the same distance between 2 points, the angle has everything to do with ride quality. A boomerang shackle changes the angle of the shackle itself, thus making the ride quality better. I know this is an old dead thread, but I'm currently researching My Leaf springs. What you're saying here is contradictory to torque and levers. I can get out my physics books etc, but I'm thinking Hellcreek is correct on this. If the shackle droops free it will find it's center like a plumb bob, so if eye to eye is the same for the boomerang vs stock the only difference in this resting position would be the balance of the weight of the shackle of the boomerang not being balanced, however this offset plumb would go away when the leaf spring it's self is attached freely as the weight of the axle etc would far out weigh the shackle balance, therefore the force down and forward back would be the same regardless of the design. when the weight is put back on the spring the vector diagrams would be the same, however if it was so much force you could possibly get a torsion or spring effect due to the boomerang design, but then again that would be at the flex of the metal. ultimately if both eyes are equal distant both of them end up equillavent levers, and one is able to swing a bit farther before it is stopped due to obstructions.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18111&start=15 Are the metric ton spring Packs that are new rated at 2200lbs? Isn't that a metric ton? Or is it a metric ton minus 1/4 us ton :)

I could not find any cracks, however I do think the springs are toast after my haul. Was under it today trying to find the cracks and decided to measure from top of tube to inside frame from bump stop. and am only measuring 11.75" at best. I thought this seemed really odd, so I looked it up and on the Info pages 9.2" is stock. I'm running SOA and should have 4.5" lift in the rear from axle tube and leaf pack relocation then xj shackles to reduce some. so the springs are flattened by almost 2". This is what happens when you don't account for moisture content in sand. Yes it was stupid, but I hauled a yard of sand/decomposed granite in my truck about 2 miles. On their board it showed about 1500 lbs... so i figured ah it's close and i'm close but i'm pretty sure it was closer to 2200 lbs. It did drive surprisingly well thought with the weight. Motion Off Road MT springs vs. HellCreek MT?? As far as springs they are both to factory spec, however HellCreek uses smaller bushings than OEM and Motion is a bit cheaper..... PROs Cons of either? HellCreek has awesome customer service. And I'm leaning heavily towards them.

Thanks for the fast response. You'd replied prior to me finishing correcting my gramer and adding a question regarding replacement packs, but those are moot if my springs are in "typical" condition and safe to drive. The wife will let me get new springs if it's unsafe, I'd love new MT springs, but $500 for springs by the time they're shipped is a lot. Although new MT springs mean more potential headache with added lift etc. I managed to get my SOA to about a 4 inch lift, and adding the mt may create a 2" increase in rake and I'm not a fan of that much more rake.

Yesterday I used my comanche to haul a pretty sizeable load. And I fear I may have inverted my leaf springs, However they may be like this normally or could have been damaged prior and I just never noticed. I've tried to find photos on the net for comparison but most seem to not show a good angle. So in my photo i placed a level for a straight edge on the top of the main spring. The bed is unloaded and I'm SOA, as you can see it appears the main leaf actually bends down at the end of the 2nd leaf (assuming main is #1) it even appears this at the front mount too. I'm using XJ shackles to minimize the SOA lift. The reason I question it is because the bends seem pretty uniform (meaning both sets of leafs and at both ends), but it doesnt make sense that they would turn down unless damaged. Options for replacement: I do not want to add any more lift in the rear. I'd love to have more hauling capacity (swapped in D44 2 years ago). I've been looking at the Hellcreek MT and Motion Offroad MT spring sets. I know they give about 1" lift due to spring ratios, but then because I'm SOA there will also be added lift due to the increase in thickness, and added leaf. Other Options? Does anyone have the measurements of the total pack of the 3+2 metric ton so I know the material lift difference. There are no u-pull wrecking yards around me, so building up a spring pack is out. I've also called the good old boy parts stores and they didn't know of any spring places that could reshape them.

Re the hose you asked about. It connects to a vacuum bladder located in the bumper (you can see one hanging from the front of the cherowaggy pic you posted, ball shapped). The other end of the y connects to the hoses that run to your transfer case then to your CAD. and the other end of the y goes to the intake manifold. the bladder helps to retain vacuum to help keep vacuum for your heat control valve and to keep in 4x4.

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