skidoo_j

yup check out the picture in the diy random photo thread. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=21018&start=45

You need to fix the electric fan and maybe replace it with a '96 12 blade fan. The reason being you need more air movement the higher the cfm rating of a fan the better. When the engine is at high rpm the engine driven fan does not move much air as the clutch opens and the fan will actually slow down some. The clutch is driven in this way as the truck was designed to be going 25 mph down the road when you have 2500 rpm ish... Another option if this is a trail only vehicle is to remove the clutch fan and replace it with an electric fan. There are a few people on here who have replaced the stock clutch fan with a stock acc fan, then wired each electric fan to different temperature thermostats with an override switch. you could also replace the radiator with a better or 3 core radiator

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=26034 viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32143&hilit=brake+line+routing

the straight tube from the water pump is just a piece of 3/8" NPT pipe. I used brass from homedepot about 6". then used a coupler and got the tubed nipple from autozone. I hate plastic pieces.

this is what i meant by inline... there are cheaper ones too http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CSI-973/ the presure tank i used instead of a new style radiator: http://www.macsradiatorshop.com/surge-o ... tanks.html link of an oem overflow bottle from a 2.5 or you can use the square ones from new years etc... bottle i used: http://www.quadratec.com/products/51216_02.htm the cap for the overflow was a dorman part: 82594

Running with out the heater valve will not harm anything. If you turn the switch to cold the damper only allows outside air in and doesn't route through heater core, so no harm. It will actually prevent crap from building in your heater core. keep with stock thermostat.... our renix systems are designed to run at that temp. I ran a 180* for awhile and it caused my oil pressures to be higher and the oil got dirtier faster I assume it wasnt gettign hot enough to clean and pump through filter enough. also if your radiator is not leaking you can do an inline pressure valve cap, or pick up a radiator pressure tank with pressure cap. don't forget to get an overflow bottle. I did the conversion after i'd replaced my radiator with an oem because of a leak. I too used radiator barn and was very happy. I picked up a pressure tank from Mac's radiator and an overflow bottle from a 2.5l also i found that for the tee's you won't find 5/8" barb in anything but plastic, however go to homedepot or lowes and look at their brass pex tee's. Worked perfect. I think it was the pex brass tee for 3/4" :) good luck oh here's a link to prior thread with some pics. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32876

http://corvallis.craigslist.org/cto/2919087823.html

http://goldcountry.craigslist.org/pts/2896667062.html at the bottom of the cl ad

I've been doing one sensor at at time. and will drive down the road. what's weird is with each senor i replace it seems to go away. and when i think i've destroyed the beast it shows it's ugly face. what do you mean by ECU connector refreshing? I was planning to find the pin out in my fsm then disconnect it and just use a jumper from in the cab to where each senor is and see if any resistance. They definitely didn't design them for trouble shooting electrical. They could have given a few extra inches of wire here and there. I don't even have enough slack to get to the back of the fuse box. I can't imagine how tight the wires are near the ecu.

Nope just tested the ground, and set the 17%. I did test the resistance and it appeared linear through the operation. However I have ordered a new one as well as a new IAC.. Once they're installed every sensor will be new. the only remaining electrical that will not have been replaced would be the ecu, wire harness, stator(sensor in bottom of distributor?) and the coil. as i've already replaced the rotor, cap, plug wires, and all sensors that I'm aware of and found. I may have to pull the ecu and start testing sensor wire resistance to see if maybe one of them is bad. the ground sides seem to all be good. then maybe it'll be back to replacing all vacuum lines even though i can't find a leak maybe one develops with vibrations.

I-man did you ever chase out the cause???

Okay I'm still having the issue. I've replaced the IAC with one from a jy to no avail... about a week of driving and no improvement... So, I've now replaced all of the following with new sensors that I tested before install. All temp sensors were with in 10 ohms :). O2, Map, Coolant temp sensor, coolant temp sender, MAT, knock sensor, crank position sensor. even with all of those sensors replaced, (all grounds test .04 ohms with key off) i'm still having issues. I have given up and ordered a new IAC and throttle sensor.. When ordering these through autozone I found they have dramatic price regions. When using my zip code and in store they wanted 89 dollars for the IAC, I had entered my brothers zip in Beaverton, Oregon when doing part availablitly for him over the phone and didn't change it when I went to place the order and it was $60. Same for the TPS sensor. While I'm waiting for those to arrive I decided to install the new rebuilt injectors that have been on my self for 4 months. I put 500 miles on all the sensors and was getting 17 mpg empty on hwy... so it's improved some. But like i said idle still hangs when coming down when stopped. Hoping the injectors improve mpg. Plan to put a few gas tanks through prior to installing the IAC and TPS. Right now I doubt the IAC and TPS are the problem. It's gonna end up being the vent line between the gas tank and charcoal filter is broken and that's what is causing it. anyone have a lead on the vacuum hose from the throttle body to the MAP. I've tried to check for vacuum leaks again with propane and no idle increase. Although i'm only checking vacuum to fuel rail, map and to valve cover. all others have been plugged. I did test all plugs.. and around all gaskets on the throttle body and my egr block plate. Edited to correct an "auto spell correct" by google chrome

Any idea where to get the speeding gears now? The dealer by me said the long gear that we need is no longer orderable. I've been looking for one for a while. the tooth count for your set up is listed in the DIY section. here's a recent forum where people were successful in purchasing the gears viewtopic.php?f=2&t=34605

The only things that wouldn't cross over would be the shackles or leaf spring bastard packs, but the bastard packs would still raise the truck. depending on what springs were used. I will edit it to state that it's for xj... etc.

I'm looking at the cardone ones through auto zone... their specs on autozone show same diameter and weight. Alloy? If the photos are correct on autozone the 96 xj one appears to come off at an angle, but both need that 1/4" spacer correct? For me i guess the limit will be what I find at the JY. Unless i break down and buy a reman... the wj booster is more $$ and so is the MC

I found this posted on a different site, but felt it should be reposted the list was created for xj, but most of these items will also work on our MJ. So the rear leaf packs may still create a lift, and anything with the shackles you have to subtract 1/2" from what it lists for lift etc... Original Post also posted here with some additional posts link Suspension & Lift: 1. ZJ V8 Upcountry Coils = 1-1.5" lift 2. F-150/Bronco Coils ('70s-ish) = 4-4.5" lift 3. S10 (P/U or Blazer) leaf packs (cut eyes off S10 main and bolt pack under XJ main) = 3-4" lift (may require use of degree shims) 4. Dakota Bastard Pack (do same as with S10 pack) = ~4" lift 5. JK shocks = slight mod to fit 2-4" lift (some dispute) 6. MJ Shackles = 1/2" lift 7. Camaro Spring Isolators = 1.5" lift 8. Full size Blazer Bastard Pack (do same as S10 pack) = 4-4.5" lift (may require use of shims) may be stiffer than S10 leafs 9. ZJ spring isolators = stronger, metal core, can be stacked 10. GM fullsize pickup shackles ('95-99) = 1.5" lift, better shackle angle 11. Thunderbird Front Coils ('83-97) = 3-4" lift (varies in lift and softness by year and trim package), will need top plate from strut too 12. Any 2.5" wide leaf spring can be used between to make a bastard pack (they may differ in stiffness and lift) 13. S10 Shocks (Rear only) = good for the lift you will get when you do a bastard pack 14. TJ Lift Coils (front only) = provide 1" less lift on an XJ than on a TJ Brakes: 1. WJ brake booster 2. WJ Master Cylinder 3. YJ Brake Lines = 3-4" longer 4. Dodge Ram Van Brake Lines = 10-12" longer (for big lifts) 5. WJ Rotors/Calipers = bigger brakes and more stopping power (will fit 15" rims) 6. ZJ brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve = may need for disc conversion 7. XJ '95+ brake booster and master cylinder = dual diaphragm 8. Dakota Rear Softlines ('95-00) = 6" longer 9. GM C/K1500 Front Softlines ('90-95) = 6" longer 10. KJ disc brake set-ups can be used for a conversion on your XJ axle Axles: 1. Ford 8.8 inch ('97+) = need spring & shock mounts (3.55, 3.73, or 4.10, maybe LSD, Disc Brakes) 2. XJ I-4 & some V6 = may have 3.73, 4.10, or 4.56 gears may have vacuum discos 3. XJ C8.25 ('97+) = bolt in and upgrades to 29 spline (strength comparable to D44) 4. XJ D44 = found in some but not all '87-'89 XJ's with Towing Package 5. Lincoln Lockers = welded spider gears, operates like a spool, must be a GOOD welder 6. MJ D44 = need new spring perches and shock mounts 7. XJ D30 = ('95-'99) non-disconnect, larger u-joints, high pinion, bolt in 8. Homebrew posi-locks for '84-90 vacuum disconnect D30s, eliminates vacuum actuation (use search function) edit: 9: KJ Liberty rear axle. couple inches wider than stock MJ/XJ and can be found with disks and 3.55/3.73/4.10 gears Front End & Steering: 1. ZJ V8 Tierods = beefier & bolt in 2. WJ Knuckles/Tierods/Draglinks = beefier and crossover steering 3. Durango Steering Box = beefier 4. 350 or 351 Power Steering Pump = helps with oversize tires (requires welding) 5. WJ LCA's = more tire clearance (some grinding required) 6. ZJ pitman arm = 1 inch drop over stock 7. WJ rear LCA's = replace XJ front LCA's, 2" longer to accommodate a lift, some grinding required 8. WJ power steering pump (fits '96+, plug return hole, and use XJ pulley) 9. V8 ZJ front sway-bar 10. JK rear UCA = use as XJ LCA, its about 1-2" longer Engine/Transmission/T-case: 1. Newer XJ intakes (may require some modification) 2. Mustang 5.0 Injectors = near bolt in (have 4 holes instead of 1, more fuel, better spray) 3. ZJ V8 alternator = more power to run accessories (some grinding required) 136A 4. Ford Electric Fan ('90-95 3.8L Taurus, '87-93 5.0L Mustang) = replaces mechanical fan, more cooling (8C607) 5. 2.5L Dakota Alternator = bolt in, upgrades to 117A 6. Dodge Neon Injectors = better throttle response 7. '94+ V6 Dakota AX-15 = bolt in (but must use XJ bellhousing) 8. ZJ and WJ stock tranny coolers with stacked plates (even an upgrade for us with the stock fin style) 9. 5spd crossmembers give 3/4 inch t-case drop on autos with no loss in ground clearance BS I had both side by side no difference!!! 10. Hoodvents (i.e. Lebaron, Laser, Turbo Thunderbird etc.) = help keep ur 4.0 cool at low speeds 11. You can convert the closed system to open without replacing your radiator by using the fill cap from a 4.7 durango or dakota, cutting it into your upper hose, and replace your bottle with an MJ overflow tank or any that fit. Then cap off or eliminate the T'ed lines in the heater core. 12. Homebrew Slip Yoke Eliminator (use search function) Body/Interior/Armor: 1. 97+ mirrors are direct bolt in to older XJ's and allow you to fold them in on tight trails. 2. MJ/2 Door XJ Bucket seats = tilt forward, bolt in 3. ZJ gas tank skid = can be modified to fit 97+ 4. GM power antennas replace your broken XJ's with little modification 5. XJ '97+ doors onto older cherokees = one piece windows and better mirrors 6. XJ overhead console = most commonly found in '00-01 or higher trim level, provides space for switches etc. 7. '97+ center console = can be made to fit '96 and older, gives you cupholders! 8.'96-00 Ford Explorer hatch shocks = lift your hatch about 3" lower but are beef (ever see one that doesn't work?) need modification for '97+ 9. OEM skid plates (Front, Tranny, T-case, gas tank, found on "up-country" package XJ's) 10. OEM swing-out tire carriers, get the bumper with it, found mainly on '84-'90 XJ's

Yes, the brake switch changed in 1991. It's plunger is activated by the brake pedal arm and it's adjustable. Each switch has three sets of contacts; two NC (normally closed) sets of contacts for the auto tranny torque converter unlock and cruise signal, and one NO (normally open) set of contacts for the brake lights. When you depress the brake pedal, the NO contacts close to complete the brake light circuit and the NC contacts open to unlock the torque converter and deactivate cruise (if you have the AW4 and/or cruise control). Don--- I had posted a question to you in a message to jeepcoma... Don you recommended the 95xj vs the 00 xj booster, but what about the 00 WJ? I've read forums where people had used that one, however it looks like they're required to modify the firewall a bit. But I was wondering if it would have more braking pressure. http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes ... /index.htm

Another few questions: Why did you install the pressure bias before the adjuster? The front port on the MC looks larger than the one closes to the booster... Did you hook them up backwards, or is the secondary output larger? Is it just the threads to identify front from rear or does it have a larger opening too? You stated you didn't Modify the plunger, how does your brake switch work then? Maybe this is year specific, but my 89 is flat and I saw others mention it too, so maybe you have a newer MJ you modified. Don--- you recommended the 95 vs the 00 booster, but what about the 00 WJ? I've read forums where people had used that one, however it looks like they're required to modify the firewall a bit. But I was wondering if it would have more braking pressure. http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes ... /index.htm

Update on likes dislikes of OverHaul??? Have you used the adjuster yet? How did the load haul? Considerable more stopping power? Did you keep the 10 psi bias? I know it's only been a few months, but any more and you may forget what it was like :)

depending where in oregon there was a Comanche at auto wrecker in gp for 150... that's what they'd told me when in there..

I suggest looking at kevin's off road. he discusses how the ridge of the oem one is actually stronger than the flat style. http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/cart/index ... ts_id=1017 I think it's why rusty's sells a brace that also ties to the passenger side... I've been debating on welding some 1.5" angle down the spine of the bracket and then adding the brace. I've found and cured my DW demons previously, however it's another possible/ potential cause in the future.

Here's some pics of a rusty's one. It looks like the bolt is centered at 4.75" from the bottom of the rail. but keep in mind i've seem several aftermarket ones with multiple holes. you want the hole in the bracket and axle to allow your track bar and drag link to be parrallel to prevent bump steer... not as important if you eliminate the y style steering and got knuckle to knuckle. I ended up using a drop pitman arm (1/2") to accomplish this because i could not drill the bracket where i really needed it.

Same thing on my 4 and 6 cyl rigs. External part is there, but the internals ended up in the old muffler. As long as it's injected and tuned, it passes fine. I've even dialed the fuel back a bit because they wasted up tp 20% of the gas by overfuelling to feed the cat. Wonder where the new cars "suddenly" got a boost in fuel economy? There you have it. What did you do to Lean it out? Did you alter it on the renix system?

Okay this first picture is of the fuseable link mine has two wires coming out of the link. One goes to ??? the other goes across the front of the truck through the grill and to the fan relay on the drivers fender and connects at position 30 (refer to previous relay layout). This is the 12v supply power to run the fan Connection 87 runs to the fan connector. the other wire from the fan then runs to a ground stud. (I didn't take pic of this as Mine is not accessible) Now for the control of the relay. The yellow wire IIRC connects to the ignition key. The plug goes to the thermo-switch in the radiator. the gray then feed into that orange block (located in wire loom directly behind driver headlight). One of the orange wires goes to your Air cond circuit and turns the fan on when AC is running. I did not have AC so I ran this one to a switch in the cab for an override. The other Orange wire goes to the relay and connects at 86. and then 85 connects to ground. Thermo is second brass in photo has wires coming out. that about sums it up. FYI this is how the 89 is... I've read other years used negative as a controller rather than positive. Hope the pics help.

Sorry thanks for writing, but it's about 2 months late. I picked one up from quadratec.