AnotherOldJeepGuy

Gotcha! Thanks

Ah Ok, so not on ramps! Thanks for that clarification.

I am considering this job, but I am far from an expert. I've have swapped out Alternator, Starter, Radiator, Brakes and one fender, but this seems a level harder than any of those. I'll start by tacking on here for some "just a bit past rookie" clarifications. @robfg67 "pull the front wheels and jack up the MJ by the frame to let the suspension to droop to get the pan out?". @watchamakalit "Full droop of the front axle is required for pan removal." I don't suppose you have any pictures but if you do that would be a great addition to the thread to better understand this droop and where you jacked things up to get it. If not perhaps some additional words? I am envisioning two sets of jack stands but don't have any real info to back that guess on. @Pete M, what is this "5-way"? Thanks!

I had some turn signal issues that were worse in very hot weather. Standard bulbs everywhere. It turned out my battery was on the way out and when I put in a new battery the signal problems went away.

Success!

For any penny pinchers reading this, or just for the curious (or us engineers that just can't help it), and for an order of 2, it cost $1.75 more at Parts Hub assuming they collect tax (which EBAY will do). If Parts Hub doesn't collect sales tax (Texas) then EBAY is $1.22 more. And just for fun from a long time EBAY seller myself, Parts Hub will have to share their sale with EBAY to the tune of close to 15%, so they really effectively net somewhere in the ballpark of $8 more selling directly, so no surprise they would strongly prefer selling directly!

Confirmed BLK constant continuity to chassis GND with multi-meter once I found a reliable chassis ground connection. I don't know what/where G102 is but since I see a GND connection I guess I don't care. BLK/WHT does show continuity to GND when doors open or when switched by headlight control, although the continuity is not solid it fluctuates between ~150 ohms down to ~20 ohms. I'm going to assume this is close enough until I find out any differently.

Fair Enough.

Thanks. Does this come with wiring instructions or is this puzzle left to the user? The Jeep connector has 3 wires. Black, Red, Black/White-Stripe. The Red is 12V with respect to chassis ground. I was expecting one of the other two to show direct connection to chassis, but neither did so if anyone has the schematic, that would be handy.

Wow that was fast! Thanks for letting me know.

Good to know!

Well I didn't find it the first time, but the second time the search was easy, go figure.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/121059797132 But unfortunately is shows as no stock.

Thanks, that doesn't look like a very promising location or at least I didn't find it there. So I'll hold on for the moment to see if others may know of a more direct source for this, or possibly even suggest other alternate replacements. Tried EBAY and Amazon, no luck there forthis part number at least.

I need these for my 1990 that has had no cabin lights since last century, so probably time to rectify this issue. Can someone post part number and where to purchase? Thanks.

Nice job Pete! That is the better solution anyway, well I think so anyway! --GM

Is login with Display Name forever disabled? It used to work, now it doesn't. If Display Name login is no longer valid, the login form needs updated so that Display Name is no longer suggested as a login choice. My two cents which is probably worth much less, I'd prefer email never be used for login anywhere, because if you change your email as I do somewhat frequently, the login no longer makes sense at a minimum, and at worse may lead to other issues since an email that is no longer in-use is stuck in the system! And ultimately it can force a lot of maintenance going all over the place and changing it, if you can even do it (some places simply prohibit this change). But unfortunately 99% of the internet seems to think using an email address is a good idea for a username so I don't expect I'll every win this one (), but since this seems to be a recent change here, just maybe the thought might carry through in this one case! Or not ..

OK, I hope my method is successful. I was afraid to try and dig out what might be left of the old plastic hose, I couldn't really tell how much of it was left is any anyway. So I hunted down a piece of hose that had in inside diameter that would slip over the connection at the firewall and with adapters got it connected to the hose loose end that went to the heater control. I'm not 100% satisfied with the result, but with a little luck it will work. I tried securing the hose so that it was less likely to work it's way off. I guess time will tell. Thanks again for the assist.

OK, I will attempt to hook up the missing top connection at the firewall to the loose hose as in the new attached pic which goes to the heater control valve. My guess is that the top firewall connection used to have a plastic tube, just like the bottom connection, that goes to the hose at the heater control, which is probably long gone. Did I guess correct? Thanks for the help!

Seems logical to tack on here, my question is at least related to the same part. I just noticed that there appears to be a loose hose, and, there appears to be a spot that it might go. Problem is, the place it looks like it might go, doesn't appear to be an actual connection, even though it looks like it should be. That surely sounds as clear as mud, I will try to clarify. At the top of the evap canister there appears to be three connections. "Purge", "Tank", "Carb Bowl". There are hoses connected to Tank and Carb Bowl. It looks like there should be a hose at Purge, but when I feel it with my finger, there doesn't appear to be any actually port there, what is there seems to be solid plastic. Now the loose hose I discovered is long enough that it could connect there, and at the other end it connects to something that appears to be a mechanically controlled valve of some kind that seems to be a part of the coolant hosing. Now, if this loose end doesn't go to the canister, which again it doesn't seem to be an actual canister connection because I don't find a hole in the port, then where does it go? In picture #3 I show a connection through the firewall that appears to be missing. The hose already mentioned is not long enough to go to this spot. I am tacking this on here because it is at least close to to the area and perhaps anyone that can answer the first question can also shed some light on the firewall connection that seems to be missing. Like what goes there as well, and perhaps what it does to help me further search for information. Thanks in advance!

Don't burn too much gas on it, it's not that important!

Hmm, well I have obviously slept since then. Maybe that's why I don't see any way to vote now, maybe the polling tool is too smart to let someone vote twice! Just to continue the fun conversation, I can't see my name by clicking where you said, that's not clickable for a mere user I guess, only superusers!

Those are not exact screenshots, below is the actual screenshot. The default is "All" checked only. I took the actual screenshot and used a picture editor to demonstrate what I was getting at when suggesting a non-guest option might be nice. Again, just a thought.

Essentially this:

I see a graph, but nothing that looks like a poll input to this newbie. But if you can point it out on the pic attached I will gladly add to it!

I looked around for a poll but didn't find it, or perhaps that's something I don't know now to do. Regardless, my 1990 has 220,730 and runs great.