Eagle_SX4

Finally got around to installing the new springs. So far they are much better. Haven't driven it yet still need to tighten every back up and check my alignment. I will post some pics tomorrow. The springs I took out relaxed to same outside diameter as the new springs. It seems like they were just old worn out springs that were uncoiling as they compressed. It looks like someone had taken some lift springs and cut off a few coils then installed them with a 3 inch coil spacer to increase spring rate.

It looks like the hub style was changed in 1990 to use sealed bearings and not a seal between the hub and the axle shaft. You must have the later style of hubs on your axle. Adding a sealant to the inboard side of the splines should keep water away from the splines making it easier to take the hubs off later. I had a hard time getting the hubs to separate from the TJ shafts because there was a bit of rust on the splines because they weren't sealed from the elements. I actually like the older style hubs better because of the hub to axle seal. It keeps the water off of the splines and the bearings.

I read a bunch of posts on this topic before I decided to go for it but here is a problem that I have not seen talked about in any post I have read. The problem is the hub bearing seal. The axle shafts I got came out of a '97 TJ with the bigger 760 u joints. They still had the hubs on them when I bought them. The TJ hubs use a sealed bearing with no need for a hub housing seal. The hubs on my '87 however don't have sealed bearing and require the flange on the axle shaft to seal up the hub. The flanges on the TJ axles are to small to seal up the hubs. My solution was to pull the flanges off the old axles and press them on top of the TJ flanges. Now I have late model axle shafts in early hubs. I did take a measurement of the id of the seal and it was about 2.890 should be more than enough to make a good seal(Still putting everything back together).

So I need to replace the Delhi fuel pump I have in my Eagle. (XJ tank swap with 92 High Output 4.0 fuel injection) I have only put 500 miles on it and it is on its way out. It is super loud (you can hear it standing 20 feet away) and overheated once already almost leaving me stuck on the side of the road. My question is which fuel pump to get, the Bosch 69302 or the Mopar 68001826AA. It looks like I can get either one just wondering which one would be better?

I got it all buttoned up on Saturday afternoon. I have put about 100 miles on it and everything is working as it should.

I put in some standard leaf springs from general spring about a month and a half ago. I have been very happy with them. Here is a picture with my 300 lb motorcycle in the back. Note I do have Chevy drop shackles for about 1.75 lift in the back. The front has about 3 inch lift.

Been to busy with my Eagle over the last month to work on my Comanche. Today I put it to work and took my motorcycle over to my parents house were I will be replacing the rear shock with a QA1 coilover. I am really happy with the new rear springs even with my 300 lb moto in the back it doesn't sag much. With the old springs it would almost stuff the wheel inside fender.

I forgot to mention I found the build sheet for my car while putting the fuel pump wires in. Not much is legible it was under the insulation in the trunk tapped to the floor. I can read the VIN and the gear ratio. I pulled the wire plug and harness out of a Cherokee and put it in the same hole as the factory sending unit wire just had the drill the hole a little bigger.

Got the wiring cleaned up and the harness is bundled together. I need to get some split loom to cover it up after I wrap it in some bundling tape. I thought my Comanche ran good but this engine idles smoother and revs better. Also I found out tonight that I need to change my water pump because the shaft is wobbling. Still a few more thing to button up before it's road worthy but I should finish those things tomorrow or Saturday. The end is in sight. (For now until I think of something else to do to it)

Yeah it is not as messy as it looks and it does run. Cutting those pipes off the cat should be fine. You could just replace it with a after market one. Rockauto has lots of universal ones available from $40-$160 depending on what size you need.

Quick update found out why it kept running after I turned off the key. I plugged into the fuse box where it said ignition just to make things easier. Turns out I was going through the fuse that controls the dash warning lights and seat belt buzzer/warning light. I think that having the ECU on that circuit is causing the seat belt buzzer control box to misbehave and keep power to the ECU after I turn the key off. The voltage eventually bleeds off after about 45 seconds then the engine shuts off. So I need to find a different ignition source for the ECU to tie into. I have nearly all the unused wires out of the Cherokee harness almost ready to bundle it back together and wrap it up. Right now it looks like a mess. My suggestion to anyone trying to do something similar is to find an uncut wire harness. The harness I got didn't have any of the fuel injector plugs on it. It was cut off at the firewall. But it was more intact than the one that the P.O. included with the car. So I managed to comine the 2 harnesses to make 1 good one. It would have made this whole process a lot easier.

I haven't started pulling any of the Eagles wiring yet I wanted to get it running first. I do plan to pull everything that has to do with the factory computer just haven't got there yet. Here is a pic of my engine bay. I have an after market cat on mine but I do know what pipes you are talking about. They are a fresh air source so that the cat can operate more effectively. I don't know if they are hooked up to an air pump or not.

Yeah I thought I would have more problems to chase than the dead computer(not sure it's dead might just have a security system on it) and dead injectors. Still need to figure out why it runs for about 45 seconds when when I turn the key off. I think it is just a problem with the ignition switch not being adjusted properly.

That is about how the engine bay on my Eagle looks right now. Working on removing all the unused wires from the Cherokee harness I used to convert it to fuel injection.

I picked up more fuel injectors from the junkyard and now it runs great. Just need to get the computer mounted, wrap the wire harness and make some mounting clips for the new fuel lines and it will be road worthy.

I found a seal that will work for the sliding rear window. This was the last leak I needed to solve so my cab would stay dry in side. As you can see the original seal has shrunk and now there is a big gap on one side of the window where rain gets in and flow to the end of the slider channel and the runs down the back wall in to the foot wells. I was at the junkyard today and looked at several trucks before I found something that does work. It is from a 1997 Dodge Ram 1500. The shape of the seal is the same as the one on the Comanche although it is a little bigger. Ram one on the left and Comanche on the right. In order to fit the Ram's seal in the channel you will need to trim off the "barbs" on the outside of the seal(non glass side). Keep the barbs on the glass side so the seal doesn't pop out from the pressure of the glass. As you can see the Ram's seal is also longer than the Comanches so you will need to trim it to length. I cut mine down to about 12 7/8 inches. After installation it should look like this. No more gaps to leak it to the cab. The window is a little harder to slide now but at least there should be a lot less water in the cab.

Found the issue with the rough running. I have 3 dead fuel injectors. The solenoids don't work even when voltage is applied directly to them.

It Runs!!! Not very well but it does run and I drove it around the block. Seems to idle fine but bogs down when I hit the gas. I will be troubleshooting tomorrow. Just glad I was able to sort out all the wiring.

Just kidding it was the computer I swapped in the spare I had and it now runs!!!

Thanks for all the diagrams it helped me to get all the wiring finished today. I got the engine to fire up but it won't stay running. I think it is a bad IAC valve. It runs for about 5 seconds with it unplugged and only about 1 second with it plugged in. The IAC and throttle body are clean I disassembled the entire throttle body and soaked all non electrical parts is my parts cleaner. Any tips on how to test the IAC Valve? I also think the TPS isn't working properly. I tested the TPS at closed throttle it is about .78 volts and at full throttle is only 3.5 volts. I have read that it is supposed to be 1 volt at closed and 4.5 at wide open. It's too bad you can't adjust it like a Renix TPS. I took it off and turned it with a screw driver and was able to get the 4.5 volts it is supposed to have but it won't do it at full throttle.

Got super lucky at the junkyard last weekend. Got a wood dash trim bezel from a '93 Cherokee country. The radio slot has been cut out a bit but isn't very noticeable.

Yeah I think the SX4's were the best looking body style of the Eagles. Wagon 4 door sedan 2 door sedan 2 door kamback 2 door convertible SX4

Progress is slower than I would like but still moving forward. Got the gas tank painted and installed. I also got all the fuel lines plumbed. Got the speed sensor installed. Need to run some wires to it. Got the crank position wires extended because I got the CPS relocation kit from hesco which moves the crank position senor to the harmonic damper. It uses a factory crank position sensor for the 95-early 96 4.0 auto trans, with a custom bracket that mounts to the oil pan bolts. With a machined harmonic damper to replicate the flywheel tone ring.

When I bought my Comanche the odometer was seized up. Drove it home and watched the tenths roll around but never change the mileage. I pulled the cluster out and removed the speedometer. I wiggled the numbers around and they all freed up and is still working great. I have put about 15,000 miles on since then.

You can see the channels for the clutch pack "ears" in the second picture from the op. Pretty sure it is a limited slip.