Eagle_SX4

Yeah it should also help keep your alternator dryer. I think it might help pull some hot air out the bottom(when you are going fast enough).

It looks like the plastic bushing can be pressed on to the valve at any position which is why the alignment tool is needed. So if you had an alignment tool and new bushing the rod length wouldn't matter as long as you install the rod to the axle at ride height and use the arm as alignment point for the bushing. I am going to order an alignment tool and see if mine is adjusted properly.

Thanks Ωhm . It looks like someone may have removed the arm on my valve at one point because there is no spring on mine. I am going to look at it closer when I get a chance tonight.

Okay it looks like the arm is attached to a cam that pushes a spring to vary the amount of fluid allowed to the wheel cylinders. What is the relation between the cam and the arm? How are they timed together? I think I read somewhere in the FSM about a tool to check the position of the arm does any one know anything about that?

Yes that is the thread I used to make a new rod. I am just interested in how an empty bed affects the brakes vs a fully loaded bed. Is there more braking pressure with the bed empty or full?

Finally got a track bar cross brace made still need to pick up one more bolt at the hardware store but so far it does seem to have helped a little bit with stability. (Sorry about the last picture it is upside down. Even when I rotated it and uploaded again it always comes out this way)

I have been trying to figure out the right length for the rod that connects the valve to the axle. Does anybody know what actually happens with the valve when the bed is empty vs loaded. My thoughts was that when loaded it would increase the brake s on the back and decrease them with it empty. That doesn't seem to be the case with my truck it seems to act the opposite way. The longer the rod (simulating a heavy load) makes my brakes work less in the back and a shorter rod (simulating an empty bed) makes the brakes work harder and lock up before the fronts. Any info on how it is supposed to function would be great.

I actually have a set of original Eagle ones but due to the rear tire location in the wheel wells I can't put them on. There isn't enough room they would constantly be rubbing

Did something today I never thought I would be able to do. I polished my car and it came out excellent!! Now I just need to wax it. Before and after. Half polished and half not

Was curious what is the length of the stock proportioning valve rods. Looks like you have both 2wd and 4wd versions

I ran into a computer issue on my Eagle when I put the fuel injection back on the '92 4.0 that was in it. It would start and run but only for about 30 seconds then would just die. I think the first computer I tried had some kind of security system on it. I tried a different computer and every is working well now. Definitely try to find a different computer.

The core 4x4 WJ arms fit on a Comanche. I put them on mine. They use the same ends as the xj/mj ones. They come with spacers to account for wider bushings on the WJ. Just don't use the spacers and you are good to go. They don't curve down only in so if you want some extra flex you will need to trim the lower shock mounts a bit.

I just modified a roll up one to fit my long bed with tool box. I didn't want the trip fold because when opened up you don't have full access to the bed. Or you can't see out the back window. For me I will always pick a roll up over a tri-fold.

Just did this a few weeks ago and did not take out the bearing. The full length shafts are a smaller diameter where the bearing is and I haven't any problems with leaving the bearing in place.

Today I got a tonneau cover to fit without removing my toolbox. It is just a cheap one made for a late 90's Ford Ranger. I did have to shorten it 5 inches for it to fit right. Still need to finish sewing up the cover but I think it came out good.

I have thought about it but I don't know what I am looking for. Does any one know the pressure and flow rates of a stock pump are?

Thanks for the replies. If I have have to change the parts store pump frequently I will probably switch to the DW200 pump.

Well today it is back up and running after the fuel pump died. I also put the 4 hole injectors in and added some new badges one on each side. After I put the badge on I realized that the Eagle badge had been put on crooked and has been that way for the last 40 years.

I just got a fuel pump and hanger assembly from the parts store. It has a lifetime warranty so I shouldn't have to buy one again but time will tell how often I have to change it.

Well I ordered a Mopar fuel pump from Amazon but returned it because I couldn't find a sock or the proper connector for it. I can't find the Bosch pump in stock any where. I also have seen in pictures that it will also require a special plug and sock that I can't find any where. Any help would be much appreciated.

I really like the NP242. It is great for snowy slushy roads and has not given me any issues regarding the transmission. I have had some issues with the shifter and ended up getting Novak's cable shifter. It works a lot better than the cobbled mess that was in there but not perfect.

That is a good idea I will look into that.

Right now I am just planning on the tie rod ends but that may turn into more

Here are some pics of the suspension and all the new parts.

Finally got around to reworking the front suspension. I used TJ axle shafts (with new 760 u-joints) to delete the C.A.D., installed core 4x4 control arms, ACOS with new springs and some new rotors and pads. Pics coming tomorrow night after I finish double checking everything.