Spinnakerblue89

But what is its purpose? I'm just guessing, but I suspect it has something to do with the idle?

I have received my 60mm throttle body from Jeff. I can't comment on performance yet as the Jeep is going to be idle for some time due to the interior being redone with new floor pans. I am very pleased with how clean the workmanship is on these TBs. I do have one Q, however: With the upgraded TB, an instruction to adjust the TPS was issued. What is the logic behind adjusting the TPS and is it 100% necessary? I do plan to follow through with it but I am also asking in case someone else has the same questions going forward.

Hey that's an excellent idea. I am intimately familiar with those, and I had forgotten about them.

I'll be tearing deeper into the rot this weekend. I need a full view of everything that's in play before I decide which route to take. Definitely going to take a plasma torch to that fuel line though

Famous last words?

I got to thinking as I was looking it over, what should I do about the fuel lines? I'd hate to cut and weld right above them.

I appreciate the link!

Strictly speaking, I have experience with an arc welder. However I've never welded outside of that. I can learn, I'm a quick study (literally learned most of what I know on a 2000 F-150, '93 ZJ, and my '03 Land Rover), and all that. However, i haven't decided yet if I'm going to weld or attach the new metal with hardware-- which if I do, I imagine I'll be using seam sealer. I can always go buy a 110v flux-core welder. If I do that, would that be useful for other applications in the automotive field? I'd hate to purchase a welder for one use is all...

Vis-à-vis the steel on appliances or the aluminum street signs?

Darn, you have an incredibly cogent point. Darn! To think I forgot about that warning I always see in someone's signature about checking for leaks at the glass... I'm sure it's easy and can be figured out but I like to have write ups available so that I am confident I will not miss a thing. Is there a proper write up on removal of the dash? I do have to find a way to get inside of the glove box, it's been locked and the original keys for this truck are looooooooong gone.

I have a good feeling about this, folks. I had to stop at cleaning up bits and bobs- I do have other things going on also. It seems that all of this is very doable and, I have access to some steel from Dad's old 1990 Ranger as well as some old street signs that were given to me because they're faded to hell and back. May have other sources as well. But just the same it looks like a floor pan for the driver seat is on order, however.

Hopefully the photos don't spaz out on me like the did the last time. The driver side is the worst, and the passenger side is not so bad, all things considered with what I've seen in many threads. If you were in my position, what would you do to the floors? Put in brand new floor boards? Just patch with metal? Weld? Rivet? Bolt? what about the frame supports? Should I cut them open? I'm only inquiring about the floor fixing part, the rustproofing is a different matter. I've searched every post in this forum and in another, and I've consulted those that I know who do body work for a living about the rustproofing. I have a pretty good idea what I'll be using for that one. Thanks.

Not quite yet for mine, and it's strange too, mine came from Michigan....... Speaking of, so did my buddy's Cherokee. In fact, all the Jeeps I've ever looked at have been in Michigan. EDIT: Not true. Two years ago I nearly bit the bullet for a 1978 J10 with a 360 in it. Couldn't justify the 10k price tag though. That was in Toledo. Anywho, all I did was cut out a very very small portion that had pinholes essentially. I mean, I already knew it would have to be removed anyway. Making an omelette requires breaking a few eggs. So looking forward to seeing this floor for the first time. Ugh! My weekend can't come any slower.

Right, I've decided to take perhaps an unconventional route. The rocker panels are not rusted through to the point I can access the back of the bolt to hear up the nut. However, they are rusty and will need replaced, either with something unique or hopefully a part from Key Parts in the future. So I cut them open to reveal the back of the bolts. I let them soak in Kroil all night and day and tonight when I get home, I'll heat up the nut with a MAP torch and see if I can't get the bolts out that way. Otherwise yeah, I'll have to drill.

Yeah I think a PO likely was fooling around with all of it before because a number of hardware bits were missing. While I'm at it: what's a good way to get heat onto those Torx bolts that hold down the seat belt at the B pillar floor? I got the inner ones on the trans tunnel with heat but I'll be damned if I can get these outer ones without cutting something. They're frozen solid, breaker bar does jack, and they're deep inside the seat belt sleeve- not to mention, the drivers side is so rusted that it stripped immediately on impact. Welding a nut onto it is out of the question for me, and the rockers aren't rusted enough that I can apply heat from the other side. Or am I going to need to go straight to drilling?

Sorry to say that none of that was the case. I misremembered everything, there were three studs with metal retaining nuts (that's what I've always referred to them). Could've been the lighting, I dunno what. Anyhow, case closed, I got it all off. Now for those inner and outer seatbelt Torx bolts... Guess I better get the big boy toys out now.

Thinking about it, it did seem to resemble the bottom of a push pin, as if it was inserted backwards.

these look unlike most of not any Christmas tree I've dealt with. Perhaps I should take a picture? Might as well do that the next person who wonders about this can find this topic and know. If you're fairly confident that I have *a form* of a Christmas tree- I mean I wouldn't put it past Chrysler to let them just use whatever they had- I can give it a pry with my tool. I think there are two of them and they are aligned vertically at the back and outer edge of both B pillars, adjacent to one another. Funny to me, I am a quality engineer in the industry and at least on doors, I haven't seen actual Christmas tree in a few years. My customers have adopted bird beaks.

I'm back after a brief hiatus, working on other things which captivate my mind. There I was in the middle of removing carpet from the truck do that I can repair rust and identify sources of leaks. Getting back to it: In trying to remove the rear plastic molding, I seem to have stumbled upon small black, looks to be plastic, fasteners that hold it to the rear wall just below the window. What are these? Are they hardware that can be easily replaced? Do I break them off and replace them? I can post a picture when I get home. Also, shout out to SMS headliners for making a fine replacement for mine! I'll be posting about that when I'm ready to install later down the road!

Ya know for $30 I bought a used park bench at an estate auction. And lately I've been thinkin' it oughta look great in my Pioneer. I just gotta weld me a bracket. A true blue bonafide bench seat.

Nothing to make your truck look like it's actually got a purpose than to park it next to heavy equipment! Lol jk, like red, not sure I'd want a Comanche in bulldozer though, now that I can visualize it in your picture!

I believe my very Pioneer has those same wheels and centers. Three examples thus far.

Your decision having been made, reminds me of the colors I once saw on the Wrangler about twelve years ago. Two beige-orange colors. I think one was Bulldozer and I forget the other.

I mean this is about Comanches here but I get why you've come. Did you check Rock Auto, Mopar Parts Giant, Car ID? Quadratech? Where have you searched? Scrapyard? eBay?