Spinnakerblue89

Appreciate it. For now I'm just exploring the idea, I stumbled upon this thread as I was searching for ideas to fix the rear window- it has no handle. Luckily my local JYs all have a plethora of old Rangers and F150s also.

That was another thought, since scrapyards seem to be chock full of Cherokee in my neck of the woods.

Drats. So goes the world!

I was wondering: Could the wire harness for the bed light be used to power a device for rear window defrost?

I have a red 1988 Ford Ranger that came with a topper when I bought it a few years ago. It's actually an S-10 topper according to the PO, and it's just slightly too long for the Ranger, but is compensated for with padding. I have no use for a topper, I bought the truck to haul things with such as furniture and frequently the topper gets in the way. However, I haven't removed it yet because the PO installed a CB radio antenna on it and I haven't given any thought yet on where to put it. When I do get around to it, I'll see if it fits the Comanche. Unless measurements may be enough?

I watched the video posted above and found the results to be enlightening. Look, the thing I'm reading is that POR-15 may very well have been considered the standard at one time, but since then it has undergone ownership change. New owners often down share the exact same vision, philosophy, passion, or instinct of the previous, so it's easy to understand that at some time, the formula changed. I do wonder if applying an epoxy primer over second or third layer of the recommended treatment (per the video) would give the the finish a tough-as-nails shell? Might that be worth a try?

I saw one a few months ago where a customer with a Fusion states the car won't move. The technicians proceeds to remove countless walnuts from every possible corner of the exterior of the vehicle.

I did a lot of research into this sort of thing because the underside and interior of the Pioneer will be given some form of treatment soon. I do occasionally visit Ranger and Rover forums, as well as other Jeep forums and I lurk the F-Series pickup forums for general tidbits. I keep seeing products by PPG being mentioned. I forget the name of the exact product but one recommendation I kept receiving was for a product I think called Omni170. Any word on this option?

Thanks, Cruiser. Makes perfect sense to me!

But what is its purpose? I'm just guessing, but I suspect it has something to do with the idle?

I have received my 60mm throttle body from Jeff. I can't comment on performance yet as the Jeep is going to be idle for some time due to the interior being redone with new floor pans. I am very pleased with how clean the workmanship is on these TBs. I do have one Q, however: With the upgraded TB, an instruction to adjust the TPS was issued. What is the logic behind adjusting the TPS and is it 100% necessary? I do plan to follow through with it but I am also asking in case someone else has the same questions going forward.

Hey that's an excellent idea. I am intimately familiar with those, and I had forgotten about them.

I'll be tearing deeper into the rot this weekend. I need a full view of everything that's in play before I decide which route to take. Definitely going to take a plasma torch to that fuel line though

Famous last words?

I got to thinking as I was looking it over, what should I do about the fuel lines? I'd hate to cut and weld right above them.

I appreciate the link!

Strictly speaking, I have experience with an arc welder. However I've never welded outside of that. I can learn, I'm a quick study (literally learned most of what I know on a 2000 F-150, '93 ZJ, and my '03 Land Rover), and all that. However, i haven't decided yet if I'm going to weld or attach the new metal with hardware-- which if I do, I imagine I'll be using seam sealer. I can always go buy a 110v flux-core welder. If I do that, would that be useful for other applications in the automotive field? I'd hate to purchase a welder for one use is all...

Vis-à-vis the steel on appliances or the aluminum street signs?

Darn, you have an incredibly cogent point. Darn! To think I forgot about that warning I always see in someone's signature about checking for leaks at the glass... I'm sure it's easy and can be figured out but I like to have write ups available so that I am confident I will not miss a thing. Is there a proper write up on removal of the dash? I do have to find a way to get inside of the glove box, it's been locked and the original keys for this truck are looooooooong gone.

I have a good feeling about this, folks. I had to stop at cleaning up bits and bobs- I do have other things going on also. It seems that all of this is very doable and, I have access to some steel from Dad's old 1990 Ranger as well as some old street signs that were given to me because they're faded to hell and back. May have other sources as well. But just the same it looks like a floor pan for the driver seat is on order, however.

Hopefully the photos don't spaz out on me like the did the last time. The driver side is the worst, and the passenger side is not so bad, all things considered with what I've seen in many threads. If you were in my position, what would you do to the floors? Put in brand new floor boards? Just patch with metal? Weld? Rivet? Bolt? what about the frame supports? Should I cut them open? I'm only inquiring about the floor fixing part, the rustproofing is a different matter. I've searched every post in this forum and in another, and I've consulted those that I know who do body work for a living about the rustproofing. I have a pretty good idea what I'll be using for that one. Thanks.

Not quite yet for mine, and it's strange too, mine came from Michigan....... Speaking of, so did my buddy's Cherokee. In fact, all the Jeeps I've ever looked at have been in Michigan. EDIT: Not true. Two years ago I nearly bit the bullet for a 1978 J10 with a 360 in it. Couldn't justify the 10k price tag though. That was in Toledo. Anywho, all I did was cut out a very very small portion that had pinholes essentially. I mean, I already knew it would have to be removed anyway. Making an omelette requires breaking a few eggs. So looking forward to seeing this floor for the first time. Ugh! My weekend can't come any slower.

Right, I've decided to take perhaps an unconventional route. The rocker panels are not rusted through to the point I can access the back of the bolt to hear up the nut. However, they are rusty and will need replaced, either with something unique or hopefully a part from Key Parts in the future. So I cut them open to reveal the back of the bolts. I let them soak in Kroil all night and day and tonight when I get home, I'll heat up the nut with a MAP torch and see if I can't get the bolts out that way. Otherwise yeah, I'll have to drill.

Yeah I think a PO likely was fooling around with all of it before because a number of hardware bits were missing. While I'm at it: what's a good way to get heat onto those Torx bolts that hold down the seat belt at the B pillar floor? I got the inner ones on the trans tunnel with heat but I'll be damned if I can get these outer ones without cutting something. They're frozen solid, breaker bar does jack, and they're deep inside the seat belt sleeve- not to mention, the drivers side is so rusted that it stripped immediately on impact. Welding a nut onto it is out of the question for me, and the rockers aren't rusted enough that I can apply heat from the other side. Or am I going to need to go straight to drilling?