VorTekX

It's a crossover pickup. I personally consider the Maverick and its competitors (Santa Cruz, Honda Ridgeline) to be more similar to the Australian Utes in a way than a dedicated truck. Like people have already stated, its for the buyer who likes their crossover but needs a bit more utility. I doubt the majority of the target demographic will be towing anything at all and the bed will never really see anything close to the maximum payload. If I were in that segment I'd certainly take one over a Ridgeline. 40 MPG out of something like that is quite impressive!

I saw some writeup on here about a guy went to a junkyard and found a factory module and installed it in his truck which was cool. I'm interested, but with the current state of my shopping list for jeep parts there's still a lot of things that take precedence over it

Would these be for manual or the automatic?

I've come to terms that i'll be buying a rust free bed, and I have a new set of rockers ready to go. Pic related is the extent of rust on my passenger door. There is a hole towards the back of the door near the bottom left corner. I do have a friend who owns a welder but I have no welding skills. I see some prices of doors range from 50-100 but I was wondering if welding is cheaper (assuming I could do it right), and how would I make sure that the metal I'd put in follows the slight curves of the door?

There was a thread here that said 85-100 ft-lbs is what to torque to, should i go loosen them? I have a long way to drive tomorrow just a little paranoid about it now

So upon entering my driveway this morning I noticed my wheel was wobbly. Sure enough, the lugs had come loose on it. I had taken it to my mechanic yesterday to have my drum brakes looked at and maybe they just forgot to torque it back down to spec (which I think is unlikely though). The only other thing I could think of was that I overtorqued them after working on my drums with my impact gun and NOT in the star pattern. Regardless, I hand tightened them and then torqued them all to 94 lb-ft once the wheel was on the ground. Is this an ok amount or should I torque it higher? Really don't want my wheel to come off on the highway......

Has anyone ever modded these for an MJ? I thought wrangler axles would be wider on an MJ Edit: Nvm just saw ad description

https://www.quadratec.com/p/crown-automotive/parking-brake-adjuster-wrangler-tj-and-98-grand-cherokee-zj It looks like replacements just use a nut and bolt so it should suffice. Just gotta measure the bolt, would be easier if I had calipers

This came off of the parking brake cable which went to the cab. There was no nut that came with the replacement. I have no idea what the stopper thing is behind the washer. Is this just something I need to buy at a hardware store?

Gas gauge always stays on full or around half tank. I assume its my sending unit and I will be pulling it to inspect further. I read on here that they don't make them anymore but I found this one online that seems to look similar. Has anyone had experience buying from this company? https://www.gastankdepot.com/jpsu6-gas-tank-sending-unit-jeep-comanche-mj.html

Ironically the underside is nowhere near as bad as the wheel wheels. Pretty crusty, but not rotting away like that. Interestingly I have also found no evidence of frame rot given how rusty the bed is. I've stabbed every inch of that frame with a screwdriver as hard as I can and no metal has caved. I do plan to use POR15, but I was going to use it on the frame, prep it like you said and try to do the inside of the frame as well.

just sent a PM

Do you know what the part number for a mopar 02 sensor is?

My short bed has pretty bad rust. I've been slowly taking my angle grinder to the rust spots to see what's salvageable or not. The drivers side is mostly salvageable besides the fender corner but the passenger side seems like a lost cause. I do know the bed fenders are for sale on eBay but I have no welding experience. Now I could definitely pay the money for the parts but what metal would I need for the "odd" spots? I would prefer not to sink a ton of money into just the bed. Not sure if it would be cheaper to buy a rust free bed, but if it is I'll definitely consider it. Any advice?

I'm getting so frustrated looking for this, it's the only thing my truck didn't come with. My tailgate has the mechanism to open but not the handle. I do not want to pay the absurd ebay prices, it doesn't need to be in good condition just not rotting away.

Good to know. I have all the new lines to fix the parking brake, but it's nice that the other components are still in good shape. When I take everything apart I'll clean them up before I put them back in

Seller just messaged me back and it has drums so it's the XJ axle. This is the only picture he posted, I can't tell if they're welded in the right spot

What I'm saying is someone already did the modification to make it fit under a comanche. However, I can't tell if its a disc or drum from the picture so I'll send the seller a message. It's also on a long bed if that makes any difference. I have a short bed.

So I was able to get it off by slamming it with an 8 lb sledge after letting PB blaster sit in it for 15 mins. Now looking at the brake shoe, I see that on the right one there's like a quarter of the pad missing. Nothing fell off it with the drum. Is that normal or should I replace it asap?

funny you mentioned this because someone with an SOA 8.25 with 3.55 gears already on a comanche is selling it for $150. Is that a good price for it? I've never bought an axle so idk how their supposed to be valued

Lol the rear disc upgrade is definitely on the to do list

it feels like its stuck at the top, I can wiggle it on both sides where the brake shoes are and the bottom as well (even after rotating the wheel). I've sprayed PB blaster in all the holes and hammered away at it as well. Parking brake is broken so i know it's not even engaged

Drum is wiggling but I can't get it completely off. I'm going to the hardware store tomorrow to get 8x1.25 bolts to put into those holes on the face of the drum. If anyone has done this before, is that the right size bolt or is it different? Not sure the brand of drum on there

Looks like it comes with a 360 snake sprayer which is good. Does it treat rust that's already formed or do i need to find another product to deal with that

I was planning to use the metal prep and degreaser they sell before I apply the product