Classy Comanche

Just found this thread. If anyone has the bright red. I think it's called Colorado Red or something? I do have a small thing of touch up paint from factory distributed by AMC/Jeep. No idea of any codes or anything of importance on there would be helpful.

Update on this thread. So what happened was screws wiggled themselves out. One was gone. God knows where that one is. The other was holding on for deal life. What happened was my solenoid came off. The screws/bolts came out and it dumped out its internals. The plunger and some spring that outlined the inside of the cylinder. Runs and cranks so well it's unlike I've ever had, so smooth. Debating on taking the old starter apart and learn it. But wanted to let you fellas know on this thread. Any thread I try to bring it to a close with a fix

She's in the shop now. As soon as I showed that starter plunger the mechanic nodded and immediately said my starter kicked the bucket. Also when I was crammed up under it earlier a spring just slid out of the socket with no hesitation. I lifted the solenoid and it slid out and hit my arm. So I left him the truck, brand new Acdelco starter and I should be good to go. Made me mad more than anything because I missed work. But I'm excited to see how much better this starter does. Even the fella that towed me saw the starter solenoid hanging and said "oh that's why you can't run, starter is busted".

Oh my lord. Wow, good thing I have a acdelco starter on hand....man. This threw me for a loop. Guess I'm having it towed and have the starter put on. It's so bizarre it was just laying on the ground

Update: I have pulled the battery out and getting a new one. I also found this part just laying on the ground. What on earth is it?? It seems to have came out from this socket? It was just laying there when I looked at it again this morning

The connectors I believe were cleaned from when I had my cooling issues and it spraying everywhere. If this also tells you anything, it was put in in 2013...yeah...it's been going strong. I last drove it 2 days ago on Wednesday. Thursday I did go anywhere and this morning I tried to crank it. At first the turn over was incredibly slow. Turned the key off then I had nothing. All I had was dash lights, radio, door buzzer and it sounded like the starter was doing all it could do in the video. So I'm going to get one today. Just suprised it lasted this long

So this morning I went to get in my truck to go to work. But when I turned the key it had a super slow crank but no start. Turned the key off then tried again. Nothing. It sounds like the starter is indeed engaging. Would this be a dead battery cause? 20221007_061115.mp4

Hey guys! I wanted to update you all on this thread. So previously I had my plugs, wires, distributor cap and distributor rotor redone in my truck along with a fresh new air filter put in. Afterwards I had a issue with high cranks and revs. Come to find out it was 2 hanging disconnected vac lines which greatly helped the idle and crank. But then I had the issue of it high idling in park. Well I have had the TPS, IAC and O2 sensor redone in one visit. Long and behold it was my TPS! it was going out and the voltage was reading higher than it should have been. I think 0.92? But I wanted to update you guys. Truck runs phenomenal, is quieter, get better gas mileage and runs cooler. Been chasing this for a while. Neither sensor I mentioned above has EVER been replaced. All 34 years old. Now new

Aye, awsome! I'll take a look and have the guy that works on my truck take a look although he's on here and familiar with both Cruiser and you Pete. Thank yall! I'm sure he knows, I just didn't think of that

That is very true. Didn't think of it that way. While I'm thinking about it on a side note. Anyone know how to adjust the TPS on a I6 4.0L? Idle seems to jump up when I drive. Idles lower/normal when first cranked. After driving it jumps up higher than usual. Runs great it just idles high when put in park from driving. No vac leaks. Checked by me and the mechanic twice. Could the TPS just be dirty? The butterfly valve is clean. Cleaned with carburetor cleaner. Just didn't know how to reset the position on a TPS if I needed to.

Oh absolutely. Yeah I have a slight sneaking suspicion it's loose. Its definitely old. My hunch is that it's worn out or loose/misaligned. Despite it being driven lightly previously before me they never really did "maintenance" to it. Yeah sure change fluids and whatnot. But every part so far that has messed up on me has been OEM from '87. Radiator, hoses, bottle, trackbar, gas hose.....etc. I'm definitely having the mechanic take a look. But I'll see if I can wedge myself under my truck and try to give my starter a small push or two to see if it tries to give

Perfect. Yep. That sounds fantastic. I'm so glad it can be inspected. From what I have also read online from me typing in "grinding noise when starting vehicle" was like the starter could be off center which is possible but wouldn't it be grinding all the time? The other was a simple failing starter. Not engaging/engaging all the way, weak solenoid. I did also read up on the flexplate. I did read that it was fairly difficult to damage or strip teeth on them. I drive this truck like a grandpa everywhere I go, it was driven easy by my grandparents. Most it's towed was a small John boat. So from like talking to you and the guy that is going to work on it Friday it sounds like the solenoid is going out/not engaging all the way. I'm not saying the plate isn't damaged. I so hope it isn't. But I've seen and heard tell of flexplates living as long as the engine. I'm definitely going to have the mechanic look and see if the starter is loose, damaged, weak/old and have him check and see if my plate it okay. Thank yall so much. Very glad to be a part of this group

I've been talking back and forth with the guy that's been working on it. He believes it's the starter as you said Pete not engaging all the way. If I had say like stripped teeth on my flexplate how could I tell without looking at it? Would it show any signs of it being damaged/stripped

Man. Okay that sounds major. I hope the starter fixes it. But to clarify I turn the key and it sometimes makes a grinding noise. Metal on metal sound. I turn the key off, remove it then try again and it's fine. I have not had any other starter put on. But yeah. I've already requested my flywheel to be looked at

No I'm saying the noise will happen then I remove the key, and crank it again. The starter hasn't been replaced yet. I just noted I purchased one to be replaced. And is does it every so often, not all the time. The starter for all I know is still factory. The noise I hear is metal on metal. Awful sound. I have purchased a new starter off rockauto to be put on. I wasn't saying I had it put on then it kept doing it. But if it was the flywheel, is that major? I looked online and those are like $50-$70

Originally no. I'll hear it, grit my teeth and let off, turn key to off position, remove key then reinsert crank and it turns over perfect. Now today it turned over and made the grind noise for a fraction of a second towards the end of the cranking initiation Edit: I also purchased a brand new starter from Acdelco on rockauto.

So every since I bought the truck it would rarely make this....awful grinding nose. When I go to insert the key then turn to the crank position to crank the truck it will sometimes make that awful sound. Well. As time has went it has gotten ever so slightly more frequent. I would say about 3 or 4 times out of 20 different cranks. It's a noise that makes you curl your toes and grit your teeth. But I was wondering if any of you had any ideas? I wish I had a audio clip of it but when I insert the key and turn it all the way "ON" then hold to crank it'll make that awful sound. Didn't do it this morning but it did it today when I left work. However when I did turn the key it didn't make the noise except towards the end where it cranked it made that grinding noise for a fraction of a second. I....want to take a guess and say it's starter related? That is a educated guess. I hope it's not anything detrimental. If it does make that noise I normally turn the truck in the "OFF" position, remove key then retry. 2nd try is the charm

Yeah. I considered that. I'm also just considering biting the bullet and doing a whole transmission fluid change....although some part of me keeps telling me the fluid isn't necessarily the answer. Because it's only reverse I'm having- I won't say difficulty with, but the only one that jolts when I reverse after driving.

And here is the idle when I took it down the side road and parked it. This is what it sounds like every time I turn it off. I'm kinda at a loss here. Everything shifts good but Reverse is the only one that jerks when I drive it for any amount of time 20220914_215600.mp4

Alrighty fellas. So my transmission is full on fluid [I have not topped it off, full of what was already in it] and I have come to notice something. When I crank my truck up in the morning it cranks fine, idles fine. The first gear I shift to to leave out of the driveway every morning is Reverse. Then afterwards I go into drive, drive to work. Truck shifts fine. No jolts, jerks or delayed shifting. But here's my peculiar delimma. So when I get to work and park, my rpms go up. Also my Reverse THEN jerks when I shift to back in. It doesn't do it cold or if I let it set for a few minutes. But the second I shift to drive to Reverse it jerks/jolts. I do have 3 videos. The 6 second one is initially starting up. The 25 second one is when I park and you are able to hear the rpm difference from the initial start up. The 30 second video is me changing gears demonstrating the odd delimma. Reverse you can clearly hear the sound and me jerk with it a bit 20220914_215451.mp4 20220914_214906.mp4

Yeah that's the blue 1 gallon jug I'll buy at Walmart come next week. It's Mercon/dexron. Says "Recommended for Dexron lll and mercon and many more applicants" so that from what I've read about Dex lll would be my safest bet

Yeah, I was told by you fellas ATF-4 or the Dex/Merc as seen above that me and Cruiser posted. I'll probably pick some up from Walmart come monday

Wanted to contribute again! So this is what mine sounds like after new plugs, wires, air filter and distributor. Still got that hole in my exhaust lol. But I had a question. So when I'm driving of a morning to work it's about a 20-30 minute commute. Depending on traffic on stoplights. When the engine heats up. Does it idle faster after a drive and then put into park? I noticed when I go to work I crank it, starts normal and idles normal. But if I go for a drive say to work. I get there park and I do notice the rpms go up. Nothing alarming. But it's noticeable if you have driven it a while like I have. Would that be due to the engine having more heat/compression from the new parts. Like giving it more juice and all? No vac lines are open or anything. The "higher" idle rpms are not heard here. But just another example like the others posted on here for others to compare to. But I didn't know if when you fellas drive for several minutes and park if you notice a rpm difference from initial crank going from point A to point B. Point B parking having slightly higher idle rpms than point A initial idle from initial cranking. 20220909_194218.mp4

Yeah if you guys go to "88 Pioneer high rev when cranking" you'll see better videos of what I was experiencing.

Well I actually found the fix for it. So it ended up being literally two small disconnected vacuum hoses. And the high crank and rpm is gone 100% and no sadly I have no heat gauge or tach. I have a gas gauge, speedometer and the rest are like lights