comancheman

what was the last year for the renix style 4.0 motor in comanches and cherokees?

its a 4x4 and ill hopefully be doin the swap within the next few weeks but first i need to replace the floor. does any one know if i could cut the front section of floor out of the xj?

ya it was the abs pump thanxs for the help

ok guys thanks for the input looks like I'm goin w/ the 242 nonvac disconnect frnt axle anything i should watch out for when I'm doin the swap or is it pretty straight forward

i just bought a donor xj and it has the np 242 with the non vac-disconnect front axle. i know that the after market support for the 242 isnt as good but i like the 4x4 options better than the 231. is there any reason why i shouldnt swap the 242 in place of the 231? i also wanted to know whether i could use the nonvac disconnect front axle with the 231 t-case its an 1989 xj limited and a 1990 comanche pioneer also whats that compressor for that goes on when i turn the key on?

we have it at my work. its pretty useful to have around especially for the little things like wiring and vacuum diagrams. It also gives some instructions and specifications. its kinda like a service manual for every car possible

hey man, not all pimple poppers are punks. :headpop:

id watch out for the tranny on that one. the manual transmissions in the comanches and early cherokees were made by peugot and don't hold up well to every day use never mind towing. luckily there are some good forums on swapping in the ax-15 tranny which is much better than the peugot and is easily found in the yj and cherokee. not sure what year they started using the ax-15 but I'm sure someone else can tell you on here. good luck and welcome to the club its a real good source for beginners like you and me. i hope u buy the comanche. i love mine and it doesnt even run.

well i got the fuel pressure where i want it now, theres a resistor over by the egr solenoid that was causing a problem, not sure y but when i checked it with a multimeter it is still was at 2.5olms it should be at 2.25 but i don't think that will make a difference. i just by passed it for now. should i definetly replace it or is it ok to leave it with no resistor? anyway it still runs like garbage, just for a longer time but it does stall after a few seconds usually. I'm gonna put on the exhaust and the o2 sensor tomorrow and see what difference that makes. its running real rich spark plugs were black and wet. o yeah compression is a litttle above 125psi is that where it should be?

right now I'm getting 25-30 psi at the fuel rail when i crank it over but without engine actually starting id i crank for more then 10 seconds pressure drops to around 20 psi its a 1988 4.0 w/ 80,000 miles in a 1990 chassis

i don't have an o2 sensor hooked up right now but i think the motor should atleast idle without it. can i still get an accurate read on fuel pressure if the motor isnt running?the pressure doesnt rise when i pull the vaccum line off the pressure reg which is why i thought that may need to be replaced. as for the fpr which i am guessing stands for fuel pump relay, how can this be tested?

would a full rich condition be caused by me not having an o2 sensor connected?

if u have rust problems i would definetly heat each bolt. i didnt and ended up snapping 6 out of 8 but i have serious rust issues. still wouldnt hurt though

ok i put the little groove on the back lip of the harmonic balancer so it was centered at the top. then put the distributor pointing at #1 cyl. motor would not fire at all. spun the distributor 180 degrees and the motor started and ran good for a few seconds then started running like it did before. when i frist start to crank the motor over fuel pressure is at 30 psi as i continue cranking it drops to around 20-25psi could this sputtering possibly be caused by a bad fuel pump or pressure regulator?

I'm gona steal my forum back know when i re indexed the distributor and cranked it over it sounded like someone was playin the steal drum in my header, it actually sounded kinda good if i wanted to hear a steal drum but i wanna hear my truck start. I'm guessin that i had it on the compression stroke the first time. where and what is the harmonic balancer?

ill give it a try on friday tomorrow I'm goin to see alan jackson so ill be home kinda late to start the jeep w/ no exhaust

i assume it was in the compresion stroke because i used the finger over the sparkplug hole method would air come out of this on the exhaust stroke to?

is there any way to tell for sure?

no I'm kinda worried I'm gonna have to spend some serious $$$. here's the situation 1. purchased a used 4.0 with 80,000 2. put new head gasket, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, and valvecover gasket. i didnt keep the pushrods in order when i took them out so i replaced them. Also pulled the distributor out but I'm pretty sure i installed that correctly (#1 cyl at tdc, point rotor at #1 cyl ) 3. installed motor in the comanche 4. i am running the motor with nothing hooked up except the battery, no fan, radiator, or serpentine belt (not for long maybe a minute at a time) 5. when i turn it over the motor fires and will sometimes idle for a few seconds 6. a lot of dark black smoke comes out of header, like a diesel black and spark plugs are black too fuel pressure is around 30 psi not sure on compression has anyone seen this before? please leave good news, but ill take the bad too :headpop:

i thought it had something to do with cold start but on a cold start the manifold is cold to0 so whats the point? if it runs without it who cares!!!!

i am runnin a pacesetter header on my 90 comanche. Today when i put my air box in i realized theres no place for the tube that runs from the airbox to the stock exhaust manifold, do i definetly need this in order for it to run properly. what exactly does this tube do?

the only thing that really matters to me is axle strength i plan on runnin 4.56 gears and an OX locker anyway. any price estimates on an 8.8 from the jy since i really don't have any use for the rest of the truck? thanks

not sure wher to post this but whats a good price for a ford 8.8. theres a 91 explorer for sale near by for $250 the body is about as bad as my comanche but all i really want is the axle would it be cheaper just to buy the axle?

ive got a herculiner in my s-10 that i rolled on for $80. So far its been worth it. it doesnt protect against the dents at all but is definetly nice to have when i drive my dirtbike into the truck and it looks alot better then all the scratches on the paint. it did chip when i had my motor on it and it scraped against the side but i just bought another quart and touch it up whenever it needs it id go with the roll on

white wire is fuel guage,low voltage. looks like a pump :headpop: