comancheman

i did a gauge swap on my mj, full gauges from an 89 cherokee into my 88 comanche. my speedo never worked until i replaced the gear in the tcase because it was stripped, ever since that my needle jumps every once in a while and i can hear it clicking behind the cluster. suggestions?

wow twisty ur nuts, but yeah i love my job i get paid $#!+ but at least i enjoy what I'm doing. my boss says to give it 30 years in the automotive business and ill no longer enjoy life nevermind my job

its kind of funny how most of us are so young yet we still manage to post somewhat knowledgeable information about the greatest truck known to man :cheers:

i forget whether or not the tre face upwards or downwards but if the bolt points upward put a floor jack under it. if it faces downward try large channel locks and squeeze it against the knuckle or if u can pry downward on the back of the tre(not the side with the nut) pushing it into the knuckle then try wrenching while applying either downward or upward force whichever is appropriate i can't picture the steering right now

I'm 18 with no major injuries or back problems yet just a few stitches and burns from my dirtbike ;)

nvr mind apparently it says the number of teeth on the gear housing and you align it with the dimple on the tcase

yeah i noticed the offset, how do i know which way is the right way?

do they strip commonly or is this an indication of another internal problem?

i have 5.5 inches of lift but the tires rub on the frame in the rear. i only was going to run 12.5 inch wide tires cause i could get them for cheap but maybe ill look around for some 10.5's

I'm wondering what backspacing i would need to run 12.5 wide tires on my mj i have 31x10.5 on now and they rub the frame in the rear with the stock steel rims. i plan on buying some cheap steel 15x8 rims but don't know what backspacing to get any help is appreciated

another good idea had i not already unbolted the axle side and tossed the bolt because it was so damn rusted

hmmm nice idea if i had one, ill try and borrow one from work

to bad it doesnt have the straight axle, those make nice wheelers. 22r or 22re? hell id get it for $450 and beat the hell out of it or give it a cheap paintjob and sell it for a little extra cash

after a can of pb blaster and an hour of fighting the stupid rotten cotterpin i was finally able to get the nut of the tre side of the track bar. i figured it would pop out like any other tre but ive been beating the bracket with a sledge and it won't go. any tricks or suggestions?

my buddy made a 2 inch body lift out of stall mat for his cj5 its held up pretty well, surprisingly

are all jeeps 5 on 4.5?

can anyone tell me if the tail pipe for a 7ft bed is much different then the tail pipe for a 6ft bed because it seems like every parts store around here has the 7ft bed listed for $20-$30 bucks cheaper then the 6ft. i know it would be longer but could i just cut it down and expand the new end?

and say i convert to a non disco or this perma lock, antidisestablishmentarianism do i do with the vaccum lines? plug them?

so I'm guessin u can run it on the road w/o any problems

ok this perma lock says it should only be used on vehicles that never see the road http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.m ... de=4x4POSI why? wouldnt it be just like a non CAD d30

i think I'm gonna wait til i find one with 4.10 gears and then a jy d30 w/ 4.10 to match. do i need to run wheel spacers with an 8.8?

i thought all had 31 spline except the ones in rangers

for sale $150 about 2 minutes from my house its off a 93 so it has drums. good deal???? i think if i showed him 100 cash he would take it. are they usually this cheap?

I'm really leaning towards the jks, kevins is nice but pricey

well i have re adj lowers with the flex joint and jks adj uppers wich flex also so hopefully ill be alright. I'm just not positive i want to go to longarms.