SW86

damn and i was hoping mine would have the butterfly windows but alas, they werent there. good score

alright ive got some cash in the bank and looking to upgrade the manche. its bone stock, no bumpers, no "good" offroad tires, no nothing. things i want to do are - 6" long arm lift, 33s, 4.56s, front and rear bumpers (front being a winch), locker in the front, so on and so on. where to start though? I'm sure some of you've had this problem, what was your first upgrade? I'm not really in a BIG hurry but i want my list to be set up for when i start buying. thanks :cheers:

i know its fun to drive up a rock to flex out (we all do it) but why not drive up a rock that leads down a trail instead? from the looks of your surroundings, id suspect there ought to be a few good ones close by. good shots tho :thumbsup:

yeah i put rtv on the seals and around them a little like haynes said too. its not pissing anymore just leaking a few drips while idling but as soon as i hit the gas it starts to. not fast or a lot just a thin steady stream. smoke is also coming from back around there now too. i fugred oil hitting the exhaust but its not.? any thoughts about why it would? i might just take it and PAY someone to do it instead of burning through half a day, letting it cure, then only to have it leak again. I'm thinking id let the seals soak in some oil to expand or what have you but i seriously doubt itll stop anything. $#!& you might end up seeing another "killing a Comanche" video on youtube if this bs keeps up :grrrr:

hardcore mudder right here. only because thats all there is around my area. i havent really had a chance to rip it up in the manche yet but I'm going to rig up a thin rubber mat and hang it off where the front bumper was and mount it either up on the frame rails or over the steering somehow. worked good on other trucks i put it on.

nah i went with the rubber and got it to do right. i just fired it up though (it was nice to hear it again) and it started to take a piss right away. IMO it looked like it was coming out of the rear of the oil pan but ill have a look at everything since ill be in there again. but hey at least it won't be THAT hard this time :roll: plus when you take off the pan theres a metal (retaining?) clip on the back of the pan. does that go on the outside or inside of the pan. its been so long since i took it off i can't remember. i put it on the outside over the hump. seemed right and yeah that dowel saved me from a lot of bs with the ones i had. thanks man :thumbsup:

i got the new one in no probs at all. i doubt itll leak but who knows. i fear the oil pan will though, i couldnt get through the whole pan before the RVT started to cure. plus the back of the gasket keeps wanting to poke out of the back when i tightened the 13s down. ill get a better look today since light was fading yesterday. i couldnt find bass punches like those. so i just made sure i had a VERY steady hand and it didnt jump when i hit it. which it did the first time but only a little, the second hit knocked it free. compaired to the other punches i had/used id go the route i went again anyday. thanks again guys :thumbsup: this forum has really payed off

I @#$%ING GOT IT! good god it took forever until i went and bought these http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200305339 you only need the middle one which you can buy seperate but hell why not get all three. anyway i hit it two times with that and boom its out. i still had to have someone turn it over while i used finger pressure to hold it against the shaft so it would spin out on its own. very easy. maybe now i can finally drive the @#$%er again thanks for the help

sounds like i was doing it right then :D I'm just going to keep at it. my hits with the hammer are getting harder but i need to go look at some more tools tomorrow. thanks for the replies

been out there trying for a good hour and nothing. hasnt even moved in the slightest. right now I'm a combination of pissed and bummed out. ill give it another go in a little while but I'm not holding my breath. and i hope we turned it the right way! if your standing in front of the truck we turned it to the left.

didnt get it out today :( and i spent most of the day out there. but at least i know whats going on in there and what i need to do for sure. ill loosen the rest of the caps and have someone spin it while i tap. hope it works :cheers: thanks

alright still no movement out of the upper seal. ive been reading this thread here viewtopic.php?f=3&t=18276&p=186021&hilit=RMS+socket+size#p186021 and it seems i should just roll the engine over a few times and it should be easier to get out. I'm kind of like :dunno: at this point so is this a good idea or any other suggestions would be awsome.

i got it off with a few good hits from a rubber mallet. i struggled to get one seal off. (in the cap) but the one in the block won't budge. ive hit it LOTS of times directly on the metal wire and nothing. i guess i should just keep at it and itll have to give sometime right

alright ive got the bolts off the cap but now the cap won't budge. i loosened the second to last to see if it would help :nuts: but nothing. should i just use a scraper to tap it free a little or would i mess anything up by doing so? i just went to try it after typing that annnnd nothing... is there a trick or something to it maybe? has to be :wall:

forget about the lime green shock boot. how about the tool box used as a tail gate lol still a cool truck though

i did gasket remover today and it worked great. i let it sit and i had the same cardboard looking gasket on there too. i used a razor blade on the pan and a scrapper on the block. it was a pain but did it. i thought about the dremel too but figured there would be too much grindage. be careful with that thing.

got a lot done today. finally got the pan off after removing only the sway bar, shocks, steering damper, oil pump, starter and bottom bell housing cover. it wasnt that much work :fs1:. the gasket on the pan was the original and hard as hell to get off. the oil pan had little to no sludge in it. there was a small layer on the very bottom thats it! cleaned it with steel wool and purple power cleaner i think its called. worked great. painted the pan along with both diff covers. pics coming tomorrow for sure. the front diff was half oil and half mud. the rear was straight old @$$ oil. no metal shavings in either. in fact all the gears looked like new :chillin: . I'm hitting the rear main seal tomorrow since i bought a torque wrench and brass punch. its like one day you hate the f-ing thing and the next everything starts moving along good.

what i did to my valve cover and sure ill do to my oil pan was denatured alcohol and steel wool. worked awsome. didnt scratch anything up either.

good deal. thanks for the info

alright ive ordered up a quart and I'm wondering if anybody bought the prep sprays they have or what you did to prep before putting it on? my floorboards are pretty clean so really i was just going to wipe it down with a cleaner, let dry, then apply. is that fine or should i just go on and get the metal ready spray they have? :dunno: thanks

true. i won't do it today then, along with the pan until i get all the tools. its just too humid out there anyway. i did however do some easy stuff. here you go since i havent been snappin any lately. ready for the por-15, after some prep of course but ill do that when the por arrives. there are two holes that go all the way through, ones right next to my tools there and the other on the other side in the same spot. drain holes maybe? is there a plug i can get somewhere or just rig something? plus there was moisture under the seat carpet..quite a bit actually. no rust though. i seriously suggest you take a look in yours. front bumper is gone, on the look out for a winch one. also that little round thing on the inside of the bumper, theres a prefect hole already there for you to screw it into until the relocation of the whole thing. here's a better pic only one screw will work but really thats all you need if you tighten it down good. I'm sure most of you already knew that little trick though. where did some of you guys move yours to?

score! thats one of my dream cars right there. almost bought two (one was parts) but had to buy a jeep instead. besides i already have a 5spd 97 maxima thats my pavement pounder remember to post lots o' pics :cheers:

ive got a punch and a mallet. i don't have a torque wrench though. couldnt i just tighten them till they are tight but not too tight? thats always worked for me before but i guess i shouldnt go this route with some internal like that :hmm: if i do need one, does autozone have a loaner i could borrow?

so would a 231 from a 95 wrangler with a 2.5 5spd in it be a direct swap? ive got a 4.0 auto or does that matter

thanks man didnt even think about that :idea: yeah i got the pan seperated it took almost a whole can of gasket remover and a lot of pounding a scrapper along both sides up front. but once i did that for a few inches, it popped right off. i had to go buy serveral deep sockets though cause the bolts are not all the same size. ill try to get it all fixed up tomorrow. i just hope the RMS doesnt give me this much trouble but ive got a huge breaker bar lying in wait if it does :D also the rear of my valve cover WAS leaking. so thats prolly where the leak was coming from or at least some of it. i seriously suggest anybody with oil leak check that first but you will need a flex joint to get back in there good.